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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Evening guys, I've got a 96 tracker 2dr with the (I believe) 3L30 3 speed auto 4x4. Because I am the luckiest person on planet earth I think that somehow the trans and engine both failed within 3 minutes of each other tonight. I was driving to the town when not 2 blocks from my house suddenly my rpms started getting higher with no gain in speed, I slowed down and put it in 4x4 thinking maybe I lost a driveline but to no avail, I was able to get it to struggle off of the road under its own power (high revving not moving very fast) and as soon as I did the engine died and will crank with the notorious sound of no compression but will not start. I'm having a hard time finding much for parts around Utah for the 3L30. Though I fear it may be the transfer case as its still a son of a B**** to move it even with the Tcase in neutral. My question is has anyone been inside one of these 3L30s? are they very complicated to rebuild? I don't have a huge budget to fix this but being as I now need to repair the engine AND the drivetrain I'm pretty well worked over anyways. I found a complete wrecked 2000 tracker with the 2.0 for $500 running. If I picked that up would it cost less to swap in those parts rather than spending how much on kits for the engine and trans and most likely a valve job? This tracker has been with us for some time and as I mentioned before they're getting hard to find around Utah so I'd like to keep it if at all possible. Of course this also happened on the day that I renew it's registration and top it off with gas 😂
I've done some searching but haven't gotten a good ball park figure for a powertrain swap.
Thanks!
 

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First - the chances of it being a transfer case issue are slim to nil - that is not going to slip, you're either going to have 100% drive, or zero drive along with a lot of mechanical noise.
Second - if you have a sudden loss of compression on all four cylinders, it's probably the timing belt, it's a non-interference engines, so just put a new one in

Finally - swapping in a 2.0 with the four speed automatic is probably going to be more work that you want - don't get me wrong, it can be done, especially when you have a complete donor nearby - but you're swapping the entire driveline except for the axles, engine, transmission, transfer case, ECU - you're going to need someone to fabricate custom drive shafts, engine mounts & possibly the transmission cross member, the wiring harness will need to be modified as will the intake, exhaust, & cooing systems.

In all seriousness, the only "easy" engine swap is to swap in a rebuilt unit identical to what you're removing - the next step up (in complexity) from there is swapping in another engine from the same model vehicle, if there was one offered as an option, which is what I think you're considering, but in reality the 96 & the 2000 are very different vehicles - if you were swapping the 2.0 from the 2000 into a 1999 that came with a 1.6, I'd be saying "go for it" or something along those lines.
 

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Diagnosis is probably key here, rather than just assuming that everything broke at the same time, no? Personally, I think that Fordem’s first paragraph may hit on the issue. It certainly sounds like you were experiencing your timing belt shredding and then breaking in real time. Before doing anything else, I’d check that timing belt.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
First - the chances of it being a transfer case issue are slim to nil - that is not going to slip, you're either going to have 100% drive, or zero drive along with a lot of mechanical noise.
Second - if you have a sudden loss of compression on all four cylinders, it's probably the timing belt, it's a non-interference engines, so just put a new one in

Finally - swapping in a 2.0 with the four speed automatic is probably going to be more work that you want - don't get me wrong, it can be done, especially when you have a complete donor nearby - but you're swapping the entire driveline except for the axles, engine, transmission, transfer case, ECU - you're going to need someone to fabricate custom drive shafts, engine mounts & possibly the transmission cross member, the wiring harness will need to be modified as will the intake, exhaust, & cooing systems.

In all seriousness, the only "easy" engine swap is to swap in a rebuilt unit identical to what you're removing - the next step up (in complexity) from there is swapping in another engine from the same model vehicle, if there was one offered as an option, which is what I think you're considering, but in reality the 96 & the 2000 are very different vehicles - if you were swapping the 2.0 from the 2000 into a 1999 that came with a 1.6, I'd be saying "go for it" or something along those lines.
Isn’t the 16v an interference engine? 8V was non interference?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Diagnosis is probably key here, rather than just assuming that everything broke at the same time, no? Personally, I think that Fordem’s first paragraph may hit on the issue. It certainly sounds like you were experiencing your timing belt shredding and then breaking in real time. Before doing anything else, I’d check that timing belt.
That’s today’s plan if I can get the time in before I turn in. I’m on night duty for 3 newborn babies right now so time is limited to say the least. My biggest reason behind wanting to keep it is mainly if I can fix it for less than what it costs to replace. A decent kick with less than 120K miles around here is 4K + all day long, that’s if you can find one. I paid $900 for this 5 years ago with 106k and it just hit 116 on its last oil change. If it’s not conducive to hang onto it then so be it
 

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Isn’t the 16v an interference engine? 8V was non interference?
No. The 8v definitely is non interference. While there is some speculation about the 16v, there has never been any indication of that engine being interference….there is anecdotal information of timing belts breaking in that engine, while going at speed, and no damage to the engine.
 

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Isn’t the 16v an interference engine? 8V was non interference?
Suzuki will, in the FSM, warn you about not rotating the camshaft, but I have yet to hear of anyone bending a valve in a G16 engine, unlike for example, the DOHC G13 or the J series motors - if I were in your shoes, I'd start by checking the timing belt, and if it's broken, put a new one in, along with a tensioner, and then see what happens - these are things I can do on my own, in my driveway, and I'm willing to invest the cost of the parts (a Cloyes kit is $20, Gates is $40 - RockAuto) and my time, knowing that I could be "throwing them away", if in fact the transmission turns out to be toast..

For a transmission issue, if it's the 3L30, I'd have to take it to a shop, if it's the 03-72LE, I can probably handle the electronic side of it, but not the hydraulics, so what I am doing is "bumping" the decision further up the road, but when the decision time comes, I'd be making it from a "better informed" position, and without investing a ton of money to get there.

What happens if I'm wrong and there is engine damage? It's cost me $40 & my time to learn that and that is what I'm risking.

Let's look at this from a different angle - I don't know what your skill set is - but if you're NOT in a position to do a basic timing belt replacement on your own, then I would suggest you forget about swapping in the 2.0, the cost of paying someone else to do it would probably not be worth the trouble.
 

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AFAIK, G series Suzuki car engines are interference. The truck engines are not.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Suzuki will, in the FSM, warn you about not rotating the camshaft, but I have yet to hear of anyone bending a valve in a G16 engine, unlike for example, the DOHC G13 or the J series motors - if I were in your shoes, I'd start by checking the timing belt, and if it's broken, put a new one in, along with a tensioner, and then see what happens - these are things I can do on my own, in my driveway, and I'm willing to invest the cost of the parts (a Cloyes kit is $20, Gates is $40 - RockAuto) and my time, knowing that I could be "throwing them away", if in fact the transmission turns out to be toast..

For a transmission issue, if it's the 3L30, I'd have to take it to a shop, if it's the 03-72LE, I can probably handle the electronic side of it, but not the hydraulics, so what I am doing is "bumping" the decision further up the road, but when the decision time comes, I'd be making it from a "better informed" position, and without investing a ton of money to get there.

What happens if I'm wrong and there is engine damage? It's cost me $40 & my time to learn that and that is what I'm risking.

Let's look at this from a different angle - I don't know what your skill set is - but if you're NOT in a position to do a basic timing belt replacement on your own, then I would suggest you forget about swapping in the 2.0, the cost of paying someone else to do it would probably not be worth the trouble.
You guys are awesome! I’ll throw a timing belt in it and start from there. I like to think I’m pretty handy but I don’t know my way around these like you guys do for sure. Alas I sold the 4 door that I turboed last year or I would just wheel that one in the meantime. I’m hoping the trans turns out to be okay but it sure wasn’t acting like it. Could just be me over 🤔 though. Fingers crossed. Again thank you all for your wealth of knowledge and all you do for the suzuki community!
 

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AFAIK, G series Suzuki car engines are interference. The truck engines are not.
If that is so then consider me lucky, as far as I know, of the G-series engines only the DOHC engine (Swift GT/i) is - , I've certainly stripped the belt out on my 8v G13B engined Swift with no damage - it happened right in front of the house one evening, and the next morning my son learned how to change a timing belt.
 

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You guys are awesome! I’ll throw a timing belt in it and start from there. I like to think I’m pretty handy but I don’t know my way around these like you guys do for sure. Alas I sold the 4 door that I turboed last year or I would just wheel that one in the meantime. I’m hoping the trans turns out to be okay but it sure wasn’t acting like it. Could just be me over 🤔 though. Fingers crossed. Again thank you all for your wealth of knowledge and all you do for the suzuki community!

You can find the manuals at the link above.
 

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You guys are awesome! I’ll throw a timing belt in it and start from there. I like to think I’m pretty handy but I don’t know my way around these like you guys do for sure. Alas I sold the 4 door that I turboed last year or I would just wheel that one in the meantime. I’m hoping the trans turns out to be okay but it sure wasn’t acting like it. Could just be me over 🤔 though. Fingers crossed. Again thank you all for your wealth of knowledge and all you do for the suzuki community!
When you go to check the timing belt, confirm that the 17m crank bolt is torqued to 94 ft/lbs. If not, you’ll have to remove it to check to see if the crank keyway has sheared. If the bolt is torqued correctly notd that you do not have to remove it to replace the timing belt. If you do remove it, make sure to torque it correctly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Got it torn apart today and the timing belt is still on and in tact. Next step is a compression test. Hopefully I can get on track to why it stopped running but the suspicious trans behavior still has me concerned.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
When you go to check the timing belt, confirm that the 17m crank bolt is torqued to 94 ft/lbs. If not, you’ll have to remove it to check to see if the crank keyway has sheared. If the bolt is torqued correctly notd that you do not have to remove it to replace the timing belt. If you do remove it, make sure to torque it correctly.
The bolt is in there but i can’t come up with a way to keep the engine from rolling over to put a torque wrench to it. Any ideas with an auto?
 

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There was a former member on this forum that constructed a brace, from the timing gear bolts, to the lower alternator bracket bolt/stud, to hold the crankshaft stationary. The photo is my version of his design, which will work with 89 - 98 1.6, Tracker & Metro engines. Thank you jtgh, I hope I'm not banned too.
 

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Or remove starter and jam ring gear against block
Automatic transmission are a pain like this unfortunately

You could try rope in the cylinder but I don't condone that practice,
 

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The bolt is in there but i can’t come up with a way to keep the engine from rolling over to put a torque wrench to it. Any ideas with an auto?
use something like this (can be diy'd too), insert pins in the slots in the pulley

Bicycle part Tool Composite material Metal Fashion accessory
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Got to the compression test today, wound up with zero on all 4 cylinders. This seemed odd to me so I looked after cranking several times and noticed that the cam pulley didnt seem to be moving. I removed the belt and crank sprocket and inspected the keyway to see if it was sheered. Keyway looked great as did the crank. I reinstalled the timing belt and had my son crank the engine while I watched and the engine barely moves for as much noise as the starter is making. It turns over great with a ratchet and I can hear compression. I know the starter is engaging but it barely moves the sprockets if that makes sense. I had him crank it again and keep on it and it started getting compression on cylinder 1 and I started getting fluid out of my trans cooler lines but then it lost it again. Does this sound more like a flexplate issue? If so why did the engine die when I started backing it off the road? Sorry to bombard with questions but its really got me stumped. I think I'm going to try to get it in the garage and drop the trans to see if I can get any farther with the diagnosis.
 
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