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Discussion Starter #1
Hey, I'm from Barbados W.I, and this would be my second suzuki samurai build.... The first was quite basic and on a college budget. I sold that and bought me a Swift GTi,to build for track days. Had that for about 3-4 years and began to miss the samurai and offroading fun so I decided to ditch the Swift build and get me back a Samurai and do a ground up build to the best of my ability & budget.

Here goes:

Will be using a leaf spring chassis & running gear for ease of lifting and aftermarket support and the newer coil spring body and other components as I prefer the look of it

Leaf spring chassis & drivetrain donor


Body, power steering & gearbox donor


Had me a full set of Wilwoood calipers (4-Pot Fronts & 2-Pot Rears) for the swift build but since I am no longer building the swift these will go towards the samurai build


Lifted the body off the donor chassis to gut, clean and repaint.

Body off



Clean, Prep & Paint Ingredients



Coating



Donor body off chassis



Lockright auto locker
 

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Some used Pro Comp 15x10 Steel Rims w/ 2.5" of backspacing


After sandblasting & powdercoat



Some used Interco Super Swamper LTBs until I get here up and running (31x11.5R15)


New Body Mount Bushings & Poly Energy Suspension Bushing Kit


Previous Intake & Exhaust Setup....Will be changing both intake & exhaust manifolds for something a bit more.....adequate

 

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Discussion Starter #3
Used Calmini 5" Lift Kit


Refurbish Time....Sent the shackle kit to be sandblasted & powdercoated


Pulling the springs apart to refurbish myself


Coated them in same truck bed coating I did the chassis in



Some anti friction coating to prevent/reduce wear & rust


New differential stud kit & spring center bolts



Rebuilt spring packs with new bushings ready to go in

 

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Discussion Starter #4
Shackle kit back from powdercoating



New Suspension Hardware


Spring Packs ready to go on


All together she goes




Rolling chassis again, off to next garage for the body to go on



On it goes
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Previous engine setup mockup


Tires mounted & fitted





Fender coverage


ARP Flywheel Bolts & SCE Pro Copper Exhaust Gaskets


Calmini HD Transfer Case Cradle


New 3" Drop Pitman Arm w/ Steering Damper Bracket


Mopar Intercooler Water Sprayer Kit..... Since when offroad there isn't much airflow over the intercooler as when on the highway, this is one of the bits I'll be adding to help keep IATs at a manageable level
 

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Discussion Starter #6
New Intake System...Opted to go with ITBs as I'm looking for insane response over outright HP...So I ditched the Cultus Intake Manifold and go for something a bit more efficient....Should flow more too :mrgreen:

FWD SR20DET Intake Plenum....Will only be using the top half to seal off the ITBs


Suzuki GSXR600 ITBs...Will be pulling them apart to clean and remove the secondary throttle plates and shaft



Secondary & Primary butterflies out


After a good few hours of cleaning, all mocked back until I get the rest of the intake finished


All the room I have to make the intake work...Only a mere 9" between head flange and brake master cylinder... Intake Flange & runners will be coming from SPR


Couplers cut to length


New Throttle Butterfly Screws....Had to file them down to length since couldn't get hold of any soo short.


Dropped off the plenum gasket to have the template for the base plate cut out of 12mm aluminium. Will continue the intake when I get that bit finished.
 

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What are your plans for ignition - there's not exactly a whole lot of room for the distributor in a north-south orientation.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Meanwhile I removed all the sound deadening material from the interior floor to prepare the body for its multi point custom roll cage to be installed soon.. About 60lbs of that stuff came out






Back into storage until I get more bits to continue..


Plenum Base Plate


Idea of how it will look minus the intake plenum


SGP MLS head gasket
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Ditched the 1.3L idea and decided to go 1.6L with Twin Cam Swift head...Sold the Jimny block and acquired myself two abandoned G16 bottom ends I got from a friend to refurbish and bring back to life....One with alloy mains the other with steel mains. The steel mains bottom half didn't have a crank so I'll be using the block with steel main caps for extra strength with the alloy main crankshaft.

Alloy main, crankshaft donor


Steel main block



Head & Block that will be used..


Considered getting the block blasted and powdercoated... Havent decided as yet but gave it a good degrease and pressure wash to start mocking up the bits needed






Suzuki EPS column to replace the factory coil spring hydraulic system & 6lb aluminum flywheel:jumping:


Since the column is from a Suzuki who usual keeps they stuff common, the standard suzuki splines are used so the mock up steering wheel also fitsbigok
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Ordered a LROR alternator bracket a while back and forgot all about it.... Showed up by surprise. This will house the 200AMP bad boy popcornn


Was always a fan of Borg Warner for their simplicity, strength & reliable turbo products... This one popped up locally for sale used, so I jumped on it and acquired it... Its a K16 unit configed & housed for a Mercedes 4L Passenger Bus. Quite small IMO for a 4L heavy hauler but perfect for what I'm looking for....:dance:


Pulled it apart to measure the wheels to get a better idea of its flow capacity & to rebuild with new beaings & seals etc

Compressor Inducer


Compressor Exducer


Turbine Inducer


Turbine Exducer


With these specs this turbo should be good for around the 3-350hp area. More than enough for what I want.

This thing was built in the mid to late 90s and I was in shocked when I found this Billet compressor wheel as standard, for a Bus, from the 90s


When I was about to pull it apart to change the internals, the stubborn compressor wheel wouldn't budge. So after several failed attempts, I decided to call it quits and send it out to the UK for a rebuild, and maybe some upgrades while theyre at it.


Reassembled, and emailed a couple reputable companies in the UK about a rebuild.. Will decide who will take on the job when I receive some replies


Denso Coil on Plugs test fitted and they fit perfectly... Will be getting 3 more to have the mounted tabs welded to the valve cover


The Denso COP has in a built-in ignitor in the coil head... Will be using this in wasted spark config, with a trigger wheel mounted to the crankshaft.

Considering dry sumping the engine for the fun of doing it, still an idea floating around in my brain, will see how it goes later down in the build to determine what I'll do in the oiling department
 

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Discussion Starter #12
***This isn't a rush build nor does it have a deadline... I work on it when I get the time to do so on my non busy off days.. I enjoy building it as much as I would enjoy driving it, so I'm far from being anxious to get it finished***

Thanks for viewing, will update when I get more done...
Cheers
 

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Cool project, thanks for sharing.
 

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Like Your Build

really like your build so far. hope to see the final product.

i just recently bought a 1993 samurai that i intend to rebuild. was wondering where to you source parts for your build?

i am from St. Lucia and it is hard to source parts in my country.
 

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Definitely watching how this goes, that will be one clean ride. I have been kicking around the idea of a low pressure turbo just for holding the hills and headwinds a little better. Thanks for taking the time to post all the pics and progress!
 

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Discussion Starter #16
really like your build so far. hope to see the final product.

i just recently bought a 1993 samurai that i intend to rebuild. was wondering where to you source parts for your build?

i am from St. Lucia and it is hard to source parts in my country.
Hey, Samurais were very plentiful here, and as offroading started to boom in the island, so was the popularity of samurais for choice for offroading, since they were cheap to buy, cheap to build and very capable.. With this came the slow extinction of samurais as they were being scrapped from accidents, failed projects etc... Now a leaf spring samurai is quite rare in the island.... Luckily I sourced what I needed before the rareness got bad, and I pretty much have everything I need. The other parts I source from LowRangeOffroad mostly or other retailers out there. You should still be able to purchase new stuff depending on what you want from dealers around the world, once your willing to pay for it NEW.


Definitely watching how this goes, that will be one clean ride. I have been kicking around the idea of a low pressure turbo just for holding the hills and headwinds a little better. Thanks for taking the time to post all the pics and progress!

No problem... My setup will be what I would call a "mid pressure" turbo setup.... Minimum boost 1Bar, aiming for 1.3-2Bar

Considering a fender exit exhaust, similar to this.


Reasons?:
-Less exhaust which turbos love
-Less exhaust means less money to run
-Its just pure badass

My worries:
-Cabin contamination
-Im not much worried about noise as it will not be a daily, and not used in congested areas of the island where traffic is heavy. Idea is to use a mini muffler from burns stainless packed with scrubble. ( SM-300-450-6-SC )

Let me know what you guys think of my stupid idea
 

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I love that fender exit, unfortunately a fender exit would get you pulled over in the states. The exit has to be completely behind the front door in most states, and many cops in the states cant wait to pull tax payers over to write chicken$h!t tickets.

Mine is a daily driver even though it's setup more for crawling through the Black Hills. Even 5lbs would help greatly turning the 35s. My rear wheel drive Lexus makes me invisible to the police and is an excellent daily driver but when the roads ice up the Samurai is my daily driver so I will have to route the exhaust through the back, even w/o a muffler it should be fairly quiet. I look forward to more on this project and specifically the mill.
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
Just a small update to keep the thread going.

Had my first baby just over a month ago so pushing the project alot haven't been much on my priority list yet again. Still doing my research and altering the todo list as time goes by and buying bits here and there...

Since I've decided on the ignition coils I'll be using, was then down to choosing the appropriate electronic hardware etc....

After changing my mind millions of times after downloading almost about every engine management installation file under the sun and reading through them to see which was a pain in the backside and which was downright simplicity (which is what I'm started to aim for), I came to the conclusion that Megasquirt gets the job done as good or even better, matches all if not most the big name companies' units capabilities and even most time tops them, and last but not least, megasquirts top of the line ecu costs the same as the big named companies base line ecus (I don't choose a part due to cost, if the rig needs it, will save until I can afford it, so money is somewhat not an issue when it comes to choosing appropriate bits for the job)... Now for my project a baseline ecu was perfect since the vehicle wouldn't have in much stuff to run and I don't need all the individual cyl trim, and 10 centuries worth of data logging space and tune on the fly from a mile away etc,plan is to get it up and running, map it as good as I possibly can on the dyno and clean up the areas of the map I need to on the road, and throw the laptop as far in the ocean as possible, never look back and enjoy what my money, time, sweat and blood have built, unless ofcourse something goes wrong. So the goal was to find something as basic as possible but still capable of getting the job done efficiently and run the engine hardware that Ive chosen for my build. These main hardware items being high impedance injectors, "smart" coils, wideband, capable of decoding the basic crank triggers, IAC output and spare output(s) for the 1 or 2 things I want it to control.. The MS3Pro caught my attention immediately when I read the capabilities of the thing and its box construction but it was still somewhat overkill. After browsing through the site a bit more looking for the appropriate sensors etc I ran upon something called MicroSquirt V3...Seeing the damn size of the thing I though it was a data logger box of some sort until I started reading its definition. This then caught my attention so did night upon nights of research to find out what it could really do... After about a month or more of internet surfing and asking questions all around the globe I found this was my perfect match! Still in awe at the size of the thing compared to what it can do... Built with just basics in mind, leaving all the unnecessary stuff off the main board to be installed externally (which I actually prefer), and its designed for bikes so it will definitely run my old slouch of an engine. It will also handle and run all the engine hardware I want to run on my engine also can decode basic crank triggering signals.. PERFECT!

Microsquirt for anyone wanting to know what it looks like


Its the size of a wallet with dimensions of 4.71" long by 3.13" wide by 1.67" thick. It uses a water tight AMP seal connector and the case can be completely sealed with an appropriate oring or silicon which would make it water proof to work even when its submerged. Just like the new MS3Pro.:D Guess I wouldn't have to worry much about it being disturbed by water when offroading. :cool:

So started off by buying the most common 36-1 trigger wheel and a hall sensor so I can determine how is best to mount to the engine. While waiting on those to arrive, I decided to download TunerStudio to familiarize myself with the software program... After going through it and making a test file and started playing with it, I ran upon the crank trigger settings and found it can decode 36-2-2-2 trigger wheels :eek: .... Some G16 engined suzukis came with the trigger wheel and VR sensor as standard so this would be an easier option than mounting the 36-1 wheel and sensor I've already ordered... So after then researching on that, a guy also with a samurai did this very same thing, with the very same microsquirt and it started & worked perfectly with no hiccups using the stock sensors, and with only the crank sensing it can run wasted spark and semi seq fueling, which is exactly what I'm going for

SOOO the wheel and sensor I ordered showed up


Put that aside for now until I get the rig up and running on the stock trigger wheel and sensor and went to the dealers and bought the stock trigger wheel with the 36-2-2-2 pattern, which is built onto the crank sprocket. It uses a different oil pump design to clear the sprocket and has a hole for the sensor to read the wheel and also a sump with the provision to mount the sensor

Sprocket


New OEM sump with provision for crank angle sensor


Didn't buy the oil pump as yet and I can't find a pic online of one but the pump is from an APV, as well as the crank sprocket and the sump if for a vitara... So easy like that, thanks to the guys at megasquirt, the microsquirt again suits me and this engine PERFECTLY, and makes my life as simple as it possibly can.

Next up was to decide on data display, I love the look of having all the gauges in the cockpit, especially analog ones to match dashes etc... After tallying up what gauges I would need to display what I think is vital, in total I would need 5 gauges which will require their own sensors and wiring to run. Minimum gauges being Oil P, Oil T, Lambda, Boost & Voltage. This will go against my keeping the rig simple rule, and as little harness necessary with all these gauges. So had to look into the next option. Digital Dashes. For some reason I'm more attracted to the RacePak IQ3 than the AIM MXL Strada so I started fresh internet browsing again on what is needed etc to get the parameters to display on the dash...They sell sensors etc to display the parameters independently without the ECU but each sensor costs about $250US and this means I'll need atleast 5 of them. Luckily the Microsquirt has CAN capability, so this means what the ECU can see through its own engine sensors, I can display via the dash through CAN...PERFECT yet again!.

So my MAP will show the load values which will be vacuum and boost, O2 input to ECU will provide Lambda, Voltage will be based on the ECU main power input, since its a voltage reading and not a current reading it should provide a proper signal, and I can use the two spare inputs on the Microsquirt for oil pressure and oil temperature solely to send this info to the dash. Also the RPM, IAT, CLT & TPS can all be displayed as well all through the CAN connectivity. Minimum wiring goal achieved.. RacePak IQ3 dash is the choice.

Being around motorsports cars alot I know how simple PDMs makes wiring side of things. Sadly most of the cars I've worked on uses MoTeC system and in this one instance cost vs necessity played a part in the choice to not go with a MoTeC PDM... Luckily couple other smaller companies started building their own.... First company is called MotoBrain, just like the microsquirt, its kept simple, VERY small & VERY affordable. Having only 8 inputs and 8 outputs this wouldve been perfect if I wanted to do just the engine side of things. Here is a link for anyone interested. motobrain.net

This system is soo sleek and even have a smartphone or tablet app to control the PDU which can independently to turn on or off circuits.. Now I can use multiple of these until I get the amount of inputs and outputs I need to do the entire vehicle, engine and body harness, but then this will be bulky and make a mess trying to get them all mounted neatly, so that is out of the question. He is soon releasing an update version which I was hoping would have more GPIOs but sadly, same amount but has new features such as CAN etc... Still not what I'm looking for..

Luckily back at RacePak where the dash is from, they also make a PDM called SmartWire which is also costy but not as costy as the MoTeC units and it does have enough GPIOs to run my entire engine and body hardware... Again after many sleepless night reading and search and downloading the manual, then talking to couple guys who run the system, I've decided this will be the way I'll be going for PDM to get rid of the conventional relays and fuses and go all new age solid state technology... I haven't ordered this as yet since, it will not be used immediately but hopefully sometime next year, I can get the stock pile of stuff I have in the US that I've accumulated, shipped down to me so I can do bit by bit as baby allows.

When everything is all wired, routed where it needs to be and working, I will then build a MilSpec type sealed harness for both body and engine, with Rachem DR25 heatshrink and boots, and will also use milspec connectors where possible.

Bought me some mild steel elbows (1.5ID/1.9OD) to have the turbo manifold built.


Getting the flanges CNC machined for just one of each will be too costy, so opted to get them plazmacut instead.

Not the cleanest cuts but it'll get the job done with some final porting for clean transitions

Took apart the turbo yet again, this time to get some stuff done to the housings.


Machined the V-band lip on the compressor to accept a 2.5" hose fitting



Dropped the turbine housing off to get ceramic coated... Haven't gotten it back as yet... Will update again when that returns and I get some more stuff done.

That's about it for what I've already done and as far as I've gotten on planning future stuff.

The new born will by the new priority and will take up even more of my very small free time so this project will go even slower now sadly...

Sorry to all those who were looking forward to an end result soon, but the finishing of this will go back even further...

What I will say is I will push on to finish it for sure and I can promise you it will not be an abandoned project...

Until next time!
 
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