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Hello!

I recently purchased a Suzuki Baleno (Esteem), 4wd, 1.6l, 72 kW, universal (station wagon) from the year 2000. I've been having the following issue:

After driving for a while around town the engine indicator lights up in the dash and the car starts to stall at low RPM, having difficulty staying idle. Also, with the engine light lit in the dash, idling in neutral and abruptly pressing the gas pedal to rev the engine, it then first dips low (like choking) and then picks up revs. When the car is off for a few hours the light and problem disappear. The problem does not occur when driving on the highway at highway speeds.

The previous owner has changed the CMP sensor. I actually checked the old one and it should be in good condition (~500 Ohms resistance in the pickup coil and the magnet is working).

I've seen glimpses of the very same problem on Google. The search results imply that there was actually some factory error with this CMP sensor around this time period (2000's) with Suzuki Balenos, temperature related?

I'm actually rather thinking towards a fault in the engine temperature sensing circuitry: the light appearing in town traffic (low enforced cooling) and disappearing after the engine has cooled, no problems on the highway (high enforced cooling)? The temperature indicator on the dash does not indicate overtemperature (staying stable in the middle of the scale).

Another idea would be a vacuum leak, but this should manifest itself in other situations too, even at cold idle - no?

The only errcode blinked on the dash is 47 (indicating CMP sensor issues).

Old timers - have you encountered this issue?
 

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Here is what solved the problem: I bought a new CMP sensor :D
The ECU did not lie. I went through the hassle of attaching an oscilloscope to the motor leads. The sensor was indeed giving out a proper pulse train (hall effect type sensor), but it failed at warm engine temperatures. Plus it behaved erratically on the testbench.
 

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Yup its a common fail point on many suzukis, mine went out at last year suddenly creating a no start condition. Wonder if theres some kinda heat sink you could cobble together to prevent it...
 

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hi, is it possible for the cam position sensor to be faulty without bringing up a code, my 2000 g16b baleno comes up with code 12 which is ok.i replaced the CMP as you call it a few years ago on a code 47 and it fixed the problem then. now it has no power 2 to 4 times in the first 10 km/s for any time from 2 to 10 seconds around 80 to 100 km/s per hour, it runs fine after that.car does not stall but pushing the clutch in when it happens it idles erratically by taco needle then picks up to normal rpm then i know it,s ok.i have checked all the earths and sensor plugs, fuel cap vent, changed and cut open fuel filter looking for water and all ok, any ideas appreciated.
 

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hi, is it possible for the cam position sensor to be faulty without bringing up a code, my 2000 g16b baleno comes up with code 12 which is ok.i replaced the CMP as you call it a few years ago on a code 47 and it fixed the problem then. now it has no power 2 to 4 times in the first 10 km/s for any time from 2 to 10 seconds around 80 to 100 km/s per hour, it runs fine after that.car does not stall but pushing the clutch in when it happens it idles erratically by taco needle then picks up to normal rpm then i know it,s ok.i have checked all the earths and sensor plugs, fuel cap vent, changed and cut open fuel filter looking for water and all ok, any ideas appreciated.
Check the basics, spark plugs, clean the leads/lances check air filter element. Lots of things can cause this issue, finding what it is can be a bit of a head scratching exercise tho. 1/2 cup of methylated spirits in the gas tank (about 1/2 tank) will get rid of any moisture.

CMP's usually fail entirely, or when hot. Unusual for one to play up and give the symptoms you describe.

From what you say, its only as the car warms up? when you first drive off? if this is the case, what happens if you let it idle for 5 mins before driving off? Does it make any difference? I'm wondering if its got an issue with the engine temp sensor. just trying to piece symptoms and causes together.
 

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thanks 2013GV, i replaced plugs, plug tube o rings/seals since this started,also no sign of arcing around leads,new air filter 1 yr ago, also read about the metho trick elsewhere and added 200ml to 1/2 tank in case of moisture though i found no sign of moisture when i cut the old fuel filter open.the baleno does not get a lot of use as its now our 2nd car but drove it to townsville this morning,90km same deal, problem wont happen when cold or after around 10km,s, if only it would play up when stationary i may find something, i am now thinking intermittent fault in fuel pressure regulator
 

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thanks 2013GV, i replaced plugs, plug tube o rings/seals since this started,also no sign of arcing around leads,new air filter 1 yr ago, also read about the metho trick elsewhere and added 200ml to 1/2 tank in case of moisture though i found no sign of moisture when i cut the old fuel filter open.the baleno does not get a lot of use as its now our 2nd car but drove it to townsville this morning,90km same deal, problem wont happen when cold or after around 10km,s, if only it would play up when stationary i may find something, i am now thinking intermittent fault in fuel pressure regulator
unusual for regs to do that, but i've seen stranger things. So, its only playing up when partially warm? is that what you're saying? between first start and fully warm, and fine at idle?
 

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yes strange, not straight away but from as little as 2km/s from leaving home to up to around 10km/s. i should have said not when hot in my last reply instead of not when cold, yes you could say during warmup, although the temp gauge has reached normal operating temp.by the 10k/m mark anyway.idles ok though a little erratic.i did not see the last part of your 1st reply thats a good idea letting it warm up before driving off to see what happens, i will try it when i leave townsville this arvo and let you know when i can. i thought about the engine temp sensor but assumed it would come up with a code.
 

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yes strange, not straight away but from as little as 2km/s from leaving home to up to around 10km/s. i should have said not when hot in my last reply instead of not when cold, yes you could say during warmup, although the temp gauge has reached normal operating temp.by the 10k/m mark anyway.idles ok though a little erratic.i did not see the last part of your 1st reply thats a good idea letting it warm up before driving off to see what happens, i will try it when i leave townsville this arvo and let you know when i can. i thought about the engine temp sensor but assumed it would come up with a code.
if a temp sensor is out of range, like showing engine is partially warm when its actually cold, but ok when warm that could cause issues, but we need to get a few more symptoms and so forth into the equation before we can try and diagnose this. This could be something as simple as a bad earth or a loose connection somewhere.
 

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every time this has happened its when i leave from home, 80 metres up the street speed limit is 60 for less than a kilometre, then highway 100km/hr. when i left townsville tuesday late arvo obviously it a city had a lot of traffic/ lights/50-60km zones,it played up twice at low speed with a distinct miss, i had nowhere to pull up and check anything when it happened so next day off i will try it on a quiet road and hopefully while faulty have time to disconnect injector plugs to see if it,s dropped any cyliders or crimp regulator return hose, trouble is it rectifies very quickly,i will let you know.
 

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every time this has happened its when i leave from home, 80 metres up the street speed limit is 60 for less than a kilometre, then highway 100km/hr. when i left townsville tuesday late arvo obviously it a city had a lot of traffic/ lights/50-60km zones,it played up twice at low speed with a distinct miss, i had nowhere to pull up and check anything when it happened so next day off i will try it on a quiet road and hopefully while faulty have time to disconnect injector plugs to see if it,s dropped any cyliders or crimp regulator return hose, trouble is it rectifies very quickly,i will let you know.
DON'T PULL INJECTOR PLUGS WHILE RUNNING thats a sure fire way to kill the ECU. Use a noid light to check them. Have you checked for codes? if the misfire is that bad, its got to have logged a code.
 

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ok, but thats how i diagnosed a coil pack on it a few years ago, it did not store a code at that time.i doubt its a faulty coil pack anyway as it would do it while hot also, different symptoms to that coil pack failure, i drove around sunday stopping a few times, driving as i was in the city and it done it twice but before i could get out and lift the bonnet it run ok again, what do you think about crimping the fuel return line and driving for 10 km/s or so, would that help eliminate the regulator? i am going to take the sender unit out also to see if there is a in tank screen before the fuel pump.
 

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hi all, after driving around low speed several times over a few days i managed to get the bonnet up, crimped return line while missing and made no difference, decided not to disconnect injector plugs to isolate possible misfiring cylinders for fear of spiking the ECU as 2013GV said but decided to order a new coil as one was still original,low and behold put it on friday, run several times over weekend and all ok, completely different symptoms to one i changed a couple of years ago, thanks for your help.
 
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