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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My wifes car has had this problem for 2 years since we bought it. Its an 07 GV, with a 2in rocky road lift and 30in tires on it. I add this simply because the lift and tires made no difference with the problem at hand. Im a mechanic and fabricator by trade for the last 7 years and know my way around a car fairly damn well. Ive been chasing a vibration in the car for quite some time.

It sounds like its coming from the entire car but predominately the front. I refused to throw parts at the car and insisted to my wife that the problem would rear its head and become obvious before anything full broke, yet the car has gotten loud on the highway to the point where its ridiculous. So after reading through TSBs and having 80k miles on the car I decided a front wheel bearing change was in order as a starting point despite finding no play. As I anticipated nothing changed.

Vibration starts as low as 25mph and gets louder as you go faster. It never gets violent like something is out of round or out of balance. Ive driven my fair share of lifted vehicles over the years and am pretty familiar with what a bad u joint vibe feels like. This is much more subtle in the vibration department but the noise is loud. When we bought the car I just figured being a cheaper end model for the class of vehicle it is it was just poor insulation and excess standard road noise, but its like the tire is next to your head now. Its not unbearably loud but the radio is definitely up and you need to talk loudly.

Ive found one case on here and the net where a rear differential was changed and solved the problem. I also couldnt help but see the similarity that my wifes truck with a fresh alignment on it will drift left if you let go of the wheel on dead flat roads. I know its properly aligned as the shop I took it to prides themselves on their work and are very good.

So I guess Im seeking out anyone whos dealt with this situation. Is there a TSB for the rear diff? Was there ever any elaboration on what was actually wrong with the rear diff? I dont want to buy a replacement unit, I want to rebuilt it ideally. Im gathering it must be the limited slip that is causing the issue.

Thoughts?
 

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Have you raised the vehicle on a lift, engaged the driveline, ran it at various speeds and looked / listened for the vibe origination? :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
No. Unfortunately I dont have personal access to a lift, but may be able to arrange it or just throw it on some jack stands. Good suggestion. For some reason didnt cross my mind.
 

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Just do it safely and securely on level pavement, if you choose the jack stand route.

I'd feel better if you were on a lift with optimum "walk around" freedom though. ;)
 

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I also couldnt help but see the similarity that my wifes truck with a fresh alignment on it will drift left if you let go of the wheel on dead flat roads. I know its properly aligned as the shop I took it to prides themselves on their work and are very good.
With a 2" lift it's unlikely that you'll be able get the front camber and caster back to factory specs.

I'm only at 40mm and even with camber adjusting bolts (think these were optional on the Rocky Road kit), still have a slight drift to the left due to caster.

Cheers
Wes
 

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Sounds like you have 2 problems. The slight pull to the left is common, so cross that off your list. That wont produce a vibration anyway.

Is the steering wheel shuddering with this vibration, or just coming through the car and seats?

Things to try.

Find someone with the same vehicle, swap the wheels. Then go for a drive. Have you ever had the tires changed?, or even balanced?.

Driveshafts often have weights put on them for balancing purposes. I have not checked the Suzuki's for these, but worth a look.
A weight may be missing.

Further down the track if your still stumped for an answer, i would remove a driveshaft, engage 4HL, then drive it, and see if the noise is still there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Sounds like you have 2 problems. The slight pull to the left is common, so cross that off your list. That wont produce a vibration anyway.

Is the steering wheel shuddering with this vibration, or just coming through the car and seats?

Things to try.

Find someone with the same vehicle, swap the wheels. Then go for a drive. Have you ever had the tires changed?, or even balanced?.

Driveshafts often have weights put on them for balancing purposes. I have not checked the Suzuki's for these, but worth a look.
A weight may be missing.

Further down the track if your still stumped for an answer, i would remove a driveshaft, engage 4HL, then drive it, and see if the noise is still there.
I checked driveshafts for thrown weights. The issue has persisted through 2 sets of tires, balanced, alignment, brakes front and rear, and a trans mount. There is no shake in the steering wheel, just the seat/floor. In fact its intensified to the point where I get a harmonic buzz in some interior pieces.

Pulling the driveshaft and using 4H lock is something I was thinking about doing when I was rereading what I posted. In guess I'll try a few more thongs and get back.

With a 2" lift it's unlikely that you'll be able get the front camber and caster back to factory specs.

I'm only at 40mm and even with camber adjusting bolts (think these were optional on the Rocky Road kit), still have a slight drift to the left due to caster.

Cheers
Wes
Everything is in spec alignment wise. Threw those junk bolts out and slotted the struts and towers to properly put the alignment in spec. I have a print out from they're machine showing the truck aligned with in .1 degrees. I've worked with the shop professionally for years doing alignments on all sorts of custom cars with swapped/fabbed suspension work. They aren't the kind of people that say "well it won't adjust any further, give me my $100 and have a nice day"
 

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Had a quick flick through the workshop manual when I got home tonight and found the attached. Hope they help.

At a glance, anything else in the manual relevent to noise and vibration consistent with road speed I think you'd feel coming back up through the steering column.

Cheers
Wes

View attachment Diagnosis FDS.doc

View attachment Diagnosis PS.doc
 

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After reading what you have already done, this is what i would do.

Get a tow from another vehicle, to test with no load on the drive line.
Ignition on, engine off.
In this order, do these checks.

Transfer switch to N, check.
Remove one drive shaft, check.
Then the other, check.

I think that should help pinpoint exactly where it is coming from. :)
 

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Im gathering it must be the limited slip that is causing the issue.
If it's stock there is no LSD function in the rear diff. It's a simple open diff.

This generation GV is fairly well insulated compared to the two earlier ones. Mine is pretty quiet, but's it's also dead stock.

Have you thought of making a short YouTube video so we can hear it?

Load a spectrum analyser app on your smart phone and see if there are any distinct frequencies that will separate driveshafts from axles.

I have to wonder if there is a suspension resonance aggravated by the lift and excited by tire noise. Have you always had LT tires on it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
If it's stock there is no LSD function in the rear diff. It's a simple open diff.

This generation GV is fairly well insulated compared to the two earlier ones. Mine is pretty quiet, but's it's also dead stock.

Have you thought of making a short YouTube video so we can hear it?

Load a spectrum analyser app on your smart phone and see if there are any distinct frequencies that will separate driveshafts from axles.

I have to wonder if there is a suspension resonance aggravated by the lift and excited by tire noise. Have you always had LT tires on it?
Stock height and tires it did the same thing. It was definitely obvious something was wrong before. IMO I would say its gotten worse. There was no sudden increase in severity due to the lift but I am sure that what ever it is its not helping.

Im going to throw it on a friends lift right now and climb under. Will report back.


BTW on an aside I would like to say this forum is super helpful. Ive been a long time lurker here when searching TSBs or general info before digging into the wifes car and should have joined a long time ago.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Put the car on a lift and let it rip. The rear has no noticeable vibrations at all. The transfercase sounded quite loud so I pulled the plug and found it was full of motor oil and under a quart. I replaced it with 1.5 quarts of synthetic 75w90 and it quieted down quite a bit but made no difference with the issue at hand.

Something seems off with the front axle but Im frankly unsure simply because on the two post the wheels are at full droop and I suspect the CV was maxed out. That being said I plan on pulling the front shaft and driving it around in 4h lock to disconnect the front axle. Unfortunately due to the hub design everything is still going to freewheel from the wheels but we will see if it changes.
 

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Hmm, clearly under load significant wear in the transfer case could show up as noise and I suspect that's your problem. I'm astonished that a basic oil check was missed on purchase of a used car.
It goes without saying that CV joints need to be within articulation spec anywhere in the suspension's range of travel but unless they are damaged I don't see how that would show up continuously.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Hmm, clearly under load significant wear in the transfer case could show up as noise and I suspect that's your problem. I'm astonished that a basic oil check was missed on purchase of a used car.
It goes without saying that CV joints need to be within articulation spec anywhere in the suspension's range of travel but unless they are damaged I don't see how that would show up continuously.

I wouldnt exactly consider checking the transfer case fluid part of a basic oil check. I dont exactly bring a floor jack and socket wrench with me when I purchase a car especially one with 40,000 miles on it from a dealer...



Given the lift on the truck it wouldnt surprise me if the cv's were capable of maxing out at full droop. As far as the transfer case noise, its noted and I'll tear it down and rebuild it should I come up empty handed else where but given there was no change in pitch or sound inside the vehicle after the oil change Im going to guess this wasnt my direct problem. Simply a crisis averted, or possibly just discovered.
 
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