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USA 1994 Suzuki Sidekick 1.6L 16v 5 Speed 4x4
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Not sure if I added my vehicle info on here correctly so here it is first. 1994 Sidekick 1.6 L 16V 5 Speed 4x4
I am having backfiring issues but only after decent acceleration or hill climbing. On a mostly flat terrain I get 25-28 but on hills is like 20-22 so seems to really kill my milage. Doesn't backfire on acceleration but just after usually soon as I shift back to 5th. Check engine is on but won't tell me a code when I jump b&c no codes flash & ODB won't reset. Another weird thing is sometimes when I stop at a light or something the rpm's go to almost zero for a few seconds then goes up to a normal idle

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First, regarding the check engine light not showing codes, you also have a ‘service engine soon’ function that will trip the CEL, and no codes will show unless that is turned off. This shows you where it is:
I suspect it might be a good idea to start with a compression test, to confirm the engine timing, as well as confirming your ignition timing, before we start searching elsewhere.
See if turning off the SES function now allows you to get codes. And if so, you may want to ride with the jumper wire in place, to see if the computer picks up something when your backfire issue is happening.
 

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USA 1994 Suzuki Sidekick 1.6L 16v 5 Speed 4x4
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
First, regarding the check engine light not showing codes, you also have a ‘service engine soon’ function that will trip the CEL, and no codes will show unless that is turned off. This shows you where it is:
I suspect it might be a good idea to start with a compression test, to confirm the engine timing, as well as confirming your ignition timing, before we start searching elsewhere.
See if turning off the SES function now allows you to get codes. And if so, you may want to ride with the jumper wire in place, to see if the computer picks up something when your backfire issue is happening.
I tried switching the CEL switch & still won't read. I switched it back, won't read. Disconnected the power & the code is still there but again won't read. This is super frustrating
I should add that I was throwing a 51 code. My egr valve was totally blocked so I cleaned it out & seems to work now. After I did that it was throwing a code but that is when this not reading a code thing started. Seemed to run fine at first but then this issue started

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99 Tracker, 5 door, 2L, 4x4
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First you need to explain what you mean by backfire,

Backfires and afterfires are worth paying attention to since they can cause engine damage, power loss, and decreased fuel efficiency. There's a variety of factors that can cause your car to backfire, but the most common ones are having a poor air to fuel ratio, a misfiring spark plug, or good old-fashioned bad timing.Fe
 

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USA 1994 Suzuki Sidekick 1.6L 16v 5 Speed 4x4
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
First you need to explain what you mean by backfire,

Backfires and afterfires are worth paying attention to since they can cause engine damage, power loss, and decreased fuel efficiency. There's a variety of factors that can cause your car to backfire, but the most common ones are having a poor air to fuel ratio, a misfiring spark plug, or good old-fashioned bad timing.Fe
Ok computer is showing no codes & got about 50 miles that way. Still having the backfiring or after firing issues (not sure what the difference is).
Far as explaining the backfiring I am not sure what more info to put than I stated before. Just cruising it seems fine but when I get on it a decent amount is when it has the issues. If there is other info i am missing please tell me & I will explain. I do not recall this having the issues before I changed the pcv valve & plugs. At first I used the expensive ngk plugs & gapped them to .045 because that is what someonetold me online (not realizing the hood tells you .028). Then swapped to the copper core & gap at .028 like the hood says. I just installed a new import direct pcv valve today. I ordered cap & rotor, wires, complete exhaust (its rotten) & headers last night. That's where I am at now.
Trying to figure this out asap cuz my business i just started depends on my rig & can be thousands of miles from home which is not where I want a breakdown

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Backfire fires back through the carb or throttle body... (intake)
afterfire : explodes in/out the exhaust system... (exhaust)

Which do you experience..?? BTW, neither will set a code..
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I am pretty certain it is after fire at least some of the time. I will be driving home here in about an hour & will roll the windows up & do the stuff that makes it happen then write what I heard on here

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Backfire fires back through the carb or throttle body... (intake)
afterfire : explodes in/out the exhaust system... (exhaust)

Which do you experience..?? BTW, neither will set a code..
I'm on my way home now & it seems to be exhaust. Sounds like exhaust manifold to CAT area

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Perhaps a hint is that you don’t recall having this issue, prior to changing the spark plugs???
 

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And how did you finally get the CEL off? The CEL should not show ‘no codes’ - it should show a code 12.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
And how did you finally get the CEL off? The CEL should not show ‘no codes’ - it should show a code 12.
I flipped that switch a few times then unplugged the battery cable, started driving & was gone.

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Perhaps a hint is that you don’t recall having this issue, prior to changing the spark plugs???
Far as the plugs go I do not remember this issues before & I also changed the pcv valve at the exact same time but I put an important direct one in yesterday so that shouldn't be the issue. I'm going to go dig through the garbage (yay) & try to find the spark plugs today soon as I get the headlights swapped

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I found the plugs. Funny thing is I look up the number & it says they are the NGK "v-power" which you can see they are not the v-power. The gap on them were all over 0.050. I have been working on different things here & there but not sure why this issue has popped up


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I found the plugs. Funny thing is I look up the number & it says they are the NGK "v-power" which you can see they are not the v-power. The gap on them were all over 0.050. I have been working on different things here & there but not sure why this issue has popped up


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The ngk bkr6e is a standard nickel V power plug which is the manufacturing method of the centre electrode meaning it has a V cut centre electrode. If they are that worn the centre electrode V is missing then replace them.
Out if the box, 0.8 mm or in americanese 0.031" at 0.050", they are shot, replace them.

 

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Just for the hell of it, maybe put the old plugs back in, and see if the ’afterfire’ remains or disappears….???
By the way, I imagine that at some point, switching back and forth, you got the SES to reset (in the future, you can reset the CEL by removing the dome light fuse for a minute). Are you able to get codes now? Do you get a code 12? And if so, with your new plugs installed and driving (and the ‘after firing’ continuing) if you drive with the jumper installed in the diagnostic connector, does the computer pick anything up??
 

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If you have a leaky exhaust and a rich condition you can expect to experience the "afterfire"
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Right now I have the copper core NGK plugs in gapped at 0.028 which is what my hood says. My new cap came in yesterday & I am sticking that on now. Here is what the old one looks like (I think it is the original ). The rotor should be in today.
I will drive it after I install the cap & see what happens. Then try what Bex says with the old spark plugs to see what happens


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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
If you have a leaky exhaust and a rich condition you can expect to experience the "afterfire"
My muffler is rotten & sure the rest of the exhaust is not much behind it. I ordered a new exhaust system & header. It says it will be here like the 27th or something so that will be swapped then


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That cap looks disgusting.....that's certainly not helping things
 
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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Put the cap on & it still does it. Maybe not as much but is still doing it. The rotor should be there by now so will install that this evening

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