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Discussion Starter #1
I recently sold a pair of auto locking hubs from my 1991 tracker and the purchaser says he cannot get them to operate. From what I understand about the automatic hub operation, it appears to me that they should be designed to go on either the right or left side.
Is this the case and if so, is there any mark on the individual hub to indicate which side they go on?
Thanks in advance for any assistance you may be able to provide.
 

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99 Tracker, 5 door, 2L, 4x4
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The hubs are not directional, the short shaft however must have the same spline count and recess fully into the hub mechanism....

The rotation of the half shaft engage/disengage the hubs.. check that the shafts indeed rotate when the T/C is placed in 4x4.. Best up on jack stands or lift.. Be safe!

...... Philip
 

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Further my previous post... wee the hubs properly serviced with the old hard grease cleaned out and a light coat of lithium brushed on splines and ranps..?

.... Philip
 

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As they are auto hubs, how exactly does the new owner know that they are not working?
It is often difficult to tell if they are engaged (particularly if you are driving forward and reverse etc., to try to disengage and engage them). The easiest way to see if they are working is to stop the car, shift to neutral (if manual tranny), put the transfer case into 4wd, drive slowly forward and then stop, jack up the front of the car and see if you can get the front tires to spin. If the car is in 4wd, you will not be able to. Another reason why I don't like the auto hubs....:(
 

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Discussion Starter #5
The new owner indicates that the hubs will engage but will not disengage when he backs up after shifting transfer case to 2WD. Both apparently engaged and locked in fine but do not unlock. He has pulled it back into his shop, jacked it up and tried turning the tire by hand to get them to unlock. They were working fine when I sent them off so no servicing was done on my end. I will ask him about work on his end.
Thanks for the feedback guys. I've seen you both in many posts and have used your expertise to get the old 1991 tracker up & running.
 

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He is probably backing too far and re-engaging in the opposite direction...

He needs to rotate the 1/2 shaft to disengage, not the wheel... Philip
 

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In order to unlock the hubs, he must stop, drive in an direction opposite to that last driven (so if he was going forward, he must now drive in reverse), for seven feet (so not a big difference), then shift the transfer case into 2H (after having switched directions, and not before). Perhaps he is doing this incorrectly.
 

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There is a reason most do not like this design of auto locking hubs.

No control.
 

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I am confused.... Bex posted: In order to unlock the hubs, he must stop, drive in an direction opposite to that last driven (so if he was going forward, he must now drive in reverse), for seven feet (so not a big difference), then shift the transfer case into 2H (after having switched directions, and not before). Perhaps he is doing this incorrectly.


Auto hubs. (from a 95 manual) is a 94 different. ?

1. Stop the vehicle completly
2.Disengage the clutch and shift the transfer lever to 2H
3. Drive the vehicle in the opposite direction to the direction you were traveling before shifting to 2H this will unlock the hubs.
4. Begin driving in 2 wheel drive.

How I do it ... in 4H I pull on to safe terrain/road. Move lever to 2H back up 4-10' and proceed to drive in what I thought was a UNLOCKED state. (I am always going forward in 4H when this procedure starts) AM I DOING IT WRONG??? My procedure seems to be what the manual says to do... but is the opposite of how Bex posted. Am I misinterpreting? PLEASE ADVISE.
 

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Very fortunately, I don't have these hubs (and probably would replace them if I did, as I find the issue of control, as Mike, says, well, an issue).
My owner's manual advises (1991 manual), and whether or not they have it backwards, I don't know (at least for the unlocking part). The idea is that the hubs must be stationary, or move at a slower rotation than the half shafts, in order for the hubs to lock. So, when locking, you put the transfer case into 4wd first, which causes the half shafts to rotate, while the hubs don't, and the hubs therefore lock:
To lock the hubs:
stop your vehicle.
If you have manual transmission, shift to neutral.
Shift the transfer case to 4H or 4L
Drive slowly forward and the hubs will lock.

To unlock the hubs:
Stop your vehicle.
Drive seven feet (2 meters) in the direction opposite to the direction you were driving before you stopped.
Then, press the clutch if you have a manual transmission, and shift the transfer case to 2H. The hubs will unlock.

Read this post - Aqua and Scudo explain it better.
http://www.suzuki-forums.com/suzuki-sidekick-escudo-vitara-geo-tracker/54178-vitara-1997-automatic-4wd-doesnt-engage.html

Now, whether or not it makes a difference to shift to 2wd immediately before or after you reverse directions, I don't know.
 

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Very fortunately, I don't have these hubs (and probably would replace them if I did, as I find the issue of control, as Mike, says, well, an issue).
My owner's manual advises (1991 manual), and whether or not they have it backwards, I don't know (at least for the unlocking part). The idea is that the hubs must be stationary, or move at a slower rotation than the half shafts, in order for the hubs to lock. So, when locking, you put the transfer case into 4wd first, which causes the half shafts to rotate, while the hubs don't, and the hubs therefore lock:
To lock the hubs:
stop your vehicle.
If you have manual transmission, shift to neutral.
Shift the transfer case to 4H or 4L
Drive slowly forward and the hubs will lock.

To unlock the hubs:
Stop your vehicle.
Drive seven feet (2 meters) in the direction opposite to the direction you were driving before you stopped.
Then, press the clutch if you have a manual transmission, and shift the transfer case to 2H. The hubs will unlock.

Read this post - Aqua and Scudo explain it better.
http://www.suzuki-forums.com/suzuki-sidekick-escudo-vitara-geo-tracker/54178-vitara-1997-automatic-4wd-doesnt-engage.html

Now, whether or not it makes a difference to shift to 2wd immediately before or after you reverse directions, I don't know.
I'll just try both ways. (check by jacking up) I doubt I could get the in town MPG if they were not unlocking though. What is meant by this... " as I find the issue of control, as Mike, says, well, an issue)." What would properly working auto or manual hubs have to do with "control" I'm
curious...
 

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The more I think about it... how would a auto hub "unlock" by backing up while still in 4x4.... and then just moving the shifter to 2H. They don't move by air. Has to be opposite rotation so the springs can release correct? Hence the reason for backing up. My auto's cause me zero control issues. Can't understand that "control" problem/issue comment what so ever. :huh:
 

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He has control issues, prefers manual hubs, where he has to physically turn a switch to lock/unlock..

Using Auto hubs you are at the mercy of the vehicle and it maintenance history..

... Philip
 

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He has control issues, prefers manual hubs, where he has to physically turn a switch to lock/unlock..

Using Auto hubs you are at the mercy of the vehicle and it maintenance history..

... Philip
Thank you. That makes sense now. :D
 

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The more I think about it... how would a auto hub "unlock" by backing up while still in 4x4....
From what I understand, they will unlock... then re-lock, when switching from forward to reverse while in 4x4.

Seems to me that this behaviour would not be desired if "rocking" to get unstuck. I want positive control. Yes, this means I have to get out and walk to each front wheel and turn a dial.

BUT... if I suspect I'll need 4x4 capability, like if the weather is bad, I lock them before getting in. I'll drive with it in 2H and "eat" the slightly poorer mileage. I understand many in areas with worse winters than the Great North-Wet US, Drive all winter with the hubs locked. Selecting 4H when needed.

But the main reason I do not use Auto Hubs is that I tow "4 down." The manual states that with auto hubs, you have to use a dolly... pulling backwards! I'd rather use a trailer.

So yes, I like control. :lol:
 

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From what I understand, they will unlock... then re-lock, when switching from forward to reverse while in 4x4.

Seems to me that this behaviour would not be desired if "rocking" to get unstuck. I want positive control. Yes, this means I have to get out and walk to each front wheel and turn a dial.
x2. And yes, if I suspect I will need 4wd, I would just lock the wheels before starting out. Many people here just lock at the beginning of the winter, and keep them locked all winter long. I suppose the point is that, considering how the auto lockers work, you don't really know if the hubs are locked or not, in any given situation, as they do unlock and hopefully relock again when changing directions. Ah, but do they??? :eek:
 

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From what I understand, they will unlock... then re-lock, when switching from forward to reverse while in 4x4.



But the main reason I do not use Auto Hubs is that I tow "4 down." The manual states that with auto hubs, you have to use a dolly... pulling backwards! I'd rather use a trailer.

So yes, I like control. :lol:


Mine have never unlocked when rocking back and forth...ever.

If I towed as you do..I also would want manual. My Auto's have never failed me. Well... that just jinxed me..lol!
 

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Mine have never unlocked when rocking back and forth...ever.
I think that they do, actually, by design, but because you keep the lever in 4wd, they re-lock again.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Further my previous post... wee the hubs properly serviced with the old hard grease cleaned out and a light coat of lithium brushed on splines and ranps..?

.... Philip
I just heard back from the fellow that purchased my auto-locking hubs and he wanted me to know that "too much grease will allow hubs to lock-in but not unlock".

Thanks to all who helped out with this issue on the auto hubs and it will likely assist others in the forum when similar problems arise.
 

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The most common cause for the auto hubs to malfunction is the application of too much grease, the second is coagulated grease....

I have posted several times the correct service of these hubs, along with correct lube application...

Serviced correctly, these hubs are more than sufficient for all but the true off road enthusiast (mudder)..

.... Philip
 
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