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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi Guys,

Have a 1994 tracker, 4x4, 8 v. Auto trans.

A simple question. Gonna change my ATF this Saturday, drop the pan and change the filter (have a Wix filter and gasket) and 4 quarts of Valvoline syn ATF, compatible with Dex II. For a change not a flush, is 4 quarts enough? Any tips?

Also, want to change the diff fluids, to synthetic as well. Is this 80/90 weight or something else? Do you know the fluid capacity? Any suggested brand?

THANKS
JW
 

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All are fill to capacity; transmission is tricky, fill, check, fill, check level, fill...
I'd do some research before you drop 2014 synthetic technology oils into late 80's technology. Probably a waste of money too.
 

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The biggest thing to look for is the "GL" number. GL-5 or GL-4. But for non-synthetic gear oil, use GL-5 in the diffs and GL-4 in the transfer case and manual transmission.

To explain:
Hypoid gears in the differentials NEED the extreme pressure (EP) additives and antiwear additives to cope with the sliding action of hypoid bevel gears. GL-5 provides this. BUT these same additives might cause problems in a manual transmission or the transfer case. Most non-synthetic GL-5 gear oils have sulphur based additives that can damage the "yellow metals" in the transmission and transfer case. SOME (most?) synthetic gear oils are GL-4 and GL-5 rated and are "yellow metal safe." It will say so right on the label.

More info: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gear_oil

OBTW: The sulphur based additives in GL-5 have a real distinctive smell... Smells really bad. So... do not put "stinky stuff" in the middle of the car. It can be used in the "ends" just fine.
 

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Hi Guys,

Have a 1994 tracker, 4x4, 8 v. Auto trans.

A simple question. Gonna change my ATF this Saturday, drop the pan and change the filter (have a Wix filter and gasket) and 4 quarts of Valvoline syn ATF, compatible with Dex II. For a change not a flush, is 4 quarts enough? Any tips?

Also, want to change the diff fluids, to synthetic as well. Is this 80/90 weight or something else? Do you know the fluid capacity? Any suggested brand?

THANKS
JW

I have a similar thread going for my 95 16v, Some good info here

http://www.suzuki-forums.com/suzuki...luids-front-pipe-sources-recommendations.html

take a look at this for some details on your vehicle

AMSOIL Online Product Application Guide
 

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About the automatic transmission.

With a "1994 tracker and an Auto trans." I would assume it is a 2 door and have a 3 speed transmission. (4 door Trackers and 4 speed autos did not hit the market until 1996.)

3 speed autos did not leave the factory with drain plugs in the pan. Many have put plugs in the pan to make the job easier and a LOT less messy. but I just use a small pump designed for changing the oil in inboard boat motors. I just suck most of the fluid out the dipstick hole.

For preventative maintenance, you change some of the fluid with each oil change (what ever can be sucked out), you should never have to pull the pan again.
 

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Just as a guide, the FSM indicates 6 pints for a 'drain and refill' of the 3 speed auto. Of course, this is just a guide, and Orf's info should be followed.
Transfer case is 3.6 pints
Front diff 2.1 pints
Rear diff 4.6 pints.
 

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Recently pulled my trans, and the torque converter, completely drained everything, and couldnt get anywhere near the amount of specced fluid in it.

Id suggest buying a couple gallons of supertech atf, drain, refill, run for at least a few hundred miles, do it again, and again, then pull the pan, swap the filter, refill with your chosen fluid. Then drain and fill with said fluid for the next few oil changes. It will gradualky be filled with the new fluid.

Some people power flush them at a shop, but its safer, and similarly priced, to do it slowly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I got this job done. Mobile GL5 75/90 Full synthetic in the front and rear diff, Vavoline GL 4 75/90 Full synthetic in the transfer case. I did drop the pan and changed the filter and gasket. Took about 3 quarts of Valvoline synthetic ATF to refill, no slip, no leaks. I did take a forum users advice. Drill a 1/8 inch pilot hole, follow with a 1/2" bit--- 4 1/4" straight across from the dimple in the pan that holds the magnet. This spot has clearance to hit nothing when the pan is in place and tightened. In this hole, put a $3.99 trans pan drain plug from Autozone. Tighten the 19 mm nut on each side, with the plastic washer on the outside. Tighten the 12mm drain plug, holding the outside 19mm nut with a back-up wrench as well. NO LEAKS, and will make my next fluid change a BREEZE!
 

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bucky, doing this drain plug tomorrow. Got the pan dropped...
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I think it is a good move! If you want to drain a few quarts of fluid to refresh, you can. If you want to change the filter, you can drain it instead of having to drop a pan full of fluid!
 

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Is it me or now that Ive run 100 miles after dropping the pan, R/R filter, gasket, and installed a drain plug, that I can barely get any AT fluid to come out? I know I have the level adjusted correctly (hot). That drain plug sits on the inside of the pan about 1/4 inch higher, so is there a little over a 1/4" inch of fluid sitting in the pan???
 

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What is inside the pan at the location of the added drain plug? Some internal part of the transmission might be blocking the drain plug. If so, it might be rubbing and COULD, eventually, cause a problem.

A while back I bought a vacuum pump designed to change motor oil by sucking the old oil out the dip stick hole. While most of my rigs are not of the design for this to work (dip stick not in the deepest part of the pan) it DOES pull out most of the ATF out of a transmission. No need to add a drain plug... if you have one of these.
 

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A while back I bought a vacuum pump designed to change motor oil by sucking the old oil out the dip stick hole. While most of my rigs are not of the design for this to work (dip stick not in the deepest part of the pan) it DOES pull out most of the ATF out of a transmission. No need to add a drain plug... if you have one of these.
they are great for auto's, but won't fit the engine dipstick tubes. I call "lazy bastard" if you use one on an engine :p whats more fun than grovelling under a car to drain the oil and dropping the bung in the old oil?
 

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So I ended up getting about 1.25 quarts to drip slowly out on its own. Trans was hot too, so I guess thats the way its gonna be. Anyways, its a 158K miles transmission, not a 2015 Vette, so I had only planned on rotating 6 quarts through over 3 drains, so if it take 4 drains, so be it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I took the drain bolt out of my "added" drain plug, and a steady stream came out, getting my hands and driveway quite red! Maybe poke a small wire up the hole to check for any obstruction.
 
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