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1997 Vitara JLX 4x4, 5 door, G16B 16V EFI,, 155,000 kms, on the "clock"
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
New here, been scouring the forums for answers myself. I have this dilemma myself, with my '97 Vitara JLX 4x4......My clutch started acting stoopid after it sat 2+ months during our rainy season. checked every aspect of the same issue having to start IN gear. 1st time this happened after it sat for 10 days, but soon as I got moving it freed up and worked fine, there after. Anyways, I just got a new Federal Mogul clutch cable to replace in my Vit....Have adjusted every which way possible, before the only clip holding the casing was on the driver fender/shock tower. I put in a bolt where the radiator clip was supposed to be, and zip tied it tight then 3 prong clip on the radiator don't do much good.

Anyways, the cables matched up exactly, when I put em side by side, after I got the old 1 out non-adjustable, rubber mounted style( wow 5 minutes work)
The weird part, was when I went to install the cable on the shift lever on the trans, it would NOT reach the bushing it goes thru !! Yet BOTH threaded cable ends are exactly the same length. Now after fully inspecting every part of the clutch system, in and under the car, I find nothing bent,or broken...I had to actually use piece of angle iron to push the lever forward, to get the threads into the bushing, and install the adjusting nut. Never seen such a thing in my life, exactly why I double checked both cables side by side for exact lengths.

So still with the .5-1.5 mm freeplay at trans, and 5mm pedal above brake pedal, with 1" free play and for extra I also finally checked the trans and diff fluid levels FULL.....Pulling what hair I can, out SMH lol .....NOTE the car/tranny drove and shifted prefectly great before it sat 2+ months, what am I missing? I'm a lot smarter than what I'm working on, just don't have my massive 40 year tool "collection" here with me in Asia ughhhh

Forgot to ask, where is the VIN plate on these dang units? Not sure if its import from Japan or what all I find is on firewall saying is G16B, 16 v., SE 416, white. The paperwork I have don't even show a VIN like US cars lol
 

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As the old sage people in Greece used to say:
"Open your own thread"
 
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The VIN should be on the dash in front of the driver. And if the cables match up exactly, then logically the issue has to be the routing….???
And yes, start your own thread (so as not to interfere with any help the original poster here is getting), and maybe upload some photos.
 

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I could be wrong, but the way I understand it is, many (or most?) of the vehicles in the Philippines are imported used out of Japan and converted to LHD in the Philippines, they tend to be a "hodge-podge" of products, and may not have the same components (engine, transmission, etc) that they left Japan with - which makes the use of the VIN as a service tool a "hit or miss" affair.
 

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I could be wrong, but the way I understand it is, many (or most?) of the vehicles in the Philippines are imported used out of Japan and converted to LHD in the Philippines, they tend to be a "hodge-podge" of products, and may not have the same components (engine, transmission, etc) that they left Japan with - which makes the use of the VIN as a service tool a "hit or miss" affair.
I’ve read and seen videos of that, as well
 

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1997 Vitara JLX 4x4, 5 door, G16B 16V EFI,, 155,000 kms, on the "clock"
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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
NOW I feel like such a DORK haha after 1000's of VINs on the dash I've checked working at dealers DUHHH brain poof Sorry thought L'd save space and time, adding to a relative post already here.... Will do so in the future Thanks..... As far as routing, I routed the cable as it was, and should be. I will check things further, because like I said, I didn't understand how, once installed, the cable came up short at the trans lever lol.....And YES here there are a LOT of vehicles from Japan, converted/remade over here. Especially those multicabs lol which is what I looked at before, but being 6 foot, I can't fit in the cab, and drive those. It's a pain to even get up under this dash, being older now lol....Eh for the $1200 I paid for this, it fits my needs, to get off the muddy mountain to the city. Did have to buy off road tires Yokohamas here were like $500 where in the states they'd cost well over $1,000. BUT I wanna get those full off road aggressive tires, since I don't go into the big city often

Thanks for replies, appreciated smacks forehead dash VIN plate dummy(me)

Went to snap pic of VIN tag to only find, no wonder never looked at it, is NONE there, nor on other side etc. Not even holes from 1 being ever being mounted inside hmmmmm
 

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The VIN on the dash is essentially a US market requirement, other markets may have it on the dash, or they may have it elsewhere, since you have a Vitara, it is not US market, check the right frame rail behind the front wheel, it may be stamped in there.
 

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my VIN is on a plate rivetted to the firewall, near the battery.

But seriously, start you own thread, with pictures of your car and of all its virtues and downfalls

see why? Kalrot's original post is being stretched into a vin location Q&A
 

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good,
but doesnt your paper work have the VIN noted somewhere?
if its an import from japan, it should start with: JSAETA

to the point of your routing, well, if same length cable (both outer and inner) doesnt reach both cable seats, something is amiss in your routing.

try to take some breaks when you type, not easy to follwo what you are saying in the 1st place...

might have to do something with RHD to LHD conversion... picutres of the pedal area could help.
 

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While one of the issues may be the VIN, i suspect the main issue is that the Federal Mogul replacement clutch cable, although exactly the same as the original cable in the car, is not able to be installed properly.
In reading your first post, you seem to indicate that the original cable was not being clipped to the bottom of the radiator (so that you had to put a bolt there)…is that correct? As both cables are exactly the same, the only issue can be that the routing is different. Was the original cable that you removed affixed to the clip under the radiator? If not, that would have allowed for the routing of the cable, even though it was the wrong size (but would also allow for the cable to move when being used, which presents problems).
 

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Fordem has nailed it. I owned a DG/DA62 van which was converted. Now to properly fix your problem, do this. Leave the pedal end disconnected, install the clutch end properly, then go to one of the local hardare stores and buy a short length of 1/8th in link chain (should only need 3 to 6 links). The dead end of the housing has been relocated to match up with the relocated pedal. Use a AMERICAN MADE small padlock as a quick link to hook up the pedal end. The reason to use an AMERICAN MADE padlock is because any of the local locks will just break out the side of the lock body as they are not strong enough metal. This is what I had to do on mine as their "extension" only lasted about 6 months before it fell apart causing me to lose all clutch action. My fix lasted the remaining 8 years until I now longer have it and as far as I know, it is still functioning.

I see you are over in Cebu City, I am in Iloilo City, You should have no difficulty finding what you need to jury-rig it.

Fred
 

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1997 Vitara JLX 4x4, 5 door, G16B 16V EFI,, 155,000 kms, on the "clock"
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks all, and Fred I shoulda been thinking "outside the box" like your idea/fix. I will check once again under the dash another time.

Right now I'm working on our house, getting the final painting done before the 24th. Is some " Fiesta" here in the province I live at. Taking mental break from the car since it's no big rush now.

I know from my experience, it's gunna probably be something stupid, I'm missing....everything is as it should be, routing same as old cable.

Was only the clip on the driver shock tower holding old cable. It was hanging free from that point to the shift lever. Also I don't see those alignment dots, but the lock bolts, and splines have not moved. The cable with number is old one other pics of routing with new and Vin tag it IS Japan import
Automotive tire Automotive exterior Bumper Gas Hood
Automotive tire Wood Automotive wheel system Motor vehicle Gas
Automotive tire Wood Art Stairs Tints and shades
Automotive tire Flash photography Motor vehicle Wood Font
 

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Motor vehicle Font Automotive tire Gas Nameplate


That name plate looks like someone removed it, beat it flat, re-stamped it and then re-riveted it to the firewall.

Although Suzuki does refer to the vehicle as an SE416, this is the first time I'm seeing SE416 on a name plate - if you're curious, check the outside of the frame rail behind the front wheels, you shoulf find a number stamped in, starting with TA01 or something along those lines.
 

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to me it looks like a number plate form a market we just dont know well.... the PH001678 simply seems like a special number given in Philipines, maybe with local suzuki dealer blessing?

doenst matter much, there is nothing there that can help you understand the exact model. surely not a VIN...

doesnt look to me like a restamped plate either, but i dont work at Miami CSI, regretfully :)
 

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I've seen those plates on several Suzukis, including Suzukis built for different markets, including the JDM market which is, as far as I know, the source of most of the vehicles that end up in the Philippines.

The first of the plates below is a used JDM, the last two are Vitaras, roughly the same vintage as the Philippine example, and have the same format, look at the difference in the details.

Blackboard Font Chalk Commemorative plaque Grass



Blackboard Chalk Handwriting Font Rectangle



Azure Handwriting Font Gas Electric blue



Font Road surface Cemetery Concrete Asphalt
 

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The metal one in post #13 looks hand done. Take a look at the printing. Aside from the fact that the letters or numbers are not in a straight line (ie, machine done) the numbers in the engine number don’t even seem to be the same ‘font’ size.
 

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And W-WHITE for paint colour? Thats a hand stamped plate made to satisfy local requirements

Time to find the factory number on the chassis assuming it has one
 

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And W-WHITE for paint colour? Thats a hand stamped plate made to satisfy local requirements
Exactly, thats what i meant "with local suzuki blessing"
All "offcial", just made by hand indeed by the boys in the corner at the local RHD to LHD converison shop....

read this for a taste of what goes on in these shops.... properly stamped plates cant be too high on their list... :oops:
 

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I doubt that "local Suzuki" blessed anything, in fact, I figure if they knew of a way to put a stop to it they would.

I live in a country where used JDM vehicles are quite common, and in fact "out sell" new vehicles, there isn't a single authorized dealer/distributor that is happy about it, not only does it cut into their sales, it's a headache having people walk in looking for help on a vehicle that was not (a) sold in your market, (b) approved for sale in your market, (c) supported in your market. In many cases the authorized dealer gets a bad rap for (a) not having spares in stock, (b) not having mechanics trained on the vehicle, (c) being unwilling to assist.

Using Mitsubishi as an example, the dealer gets their spare parts catalogs on CD, they open up the application, and it prompts for the chassis number/VIN, if the number entered does not belong to the region the dealer is authorized to do business in, the process ends right there, the application will go no further. An experienced operator might have access to a list of vehicles the dealership has sold, and might be able to enter a chassis number from a similar vehicle, but that "back door" also opens the possibility of getting the wrong part number. Even when the customer walks through the door with the part number he wants/needs, if that part is not used on vehicles built for that region, it's not stocked in the regional warehouse and the dealership cannot order it.

It's not that the dealership is unwilling to help, their hands are almost literally tied.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Well, thanks guys for all the input. Really not too worried about the VIN etc , but as soon as I seen the plate, and SE 416 crooked, I figured it was made for the car once it made it here to Phil's. The deeper I get into this car, I see so much hacking done to sell from the guy I bought it from lol. Mickey moused, ground cables bare ends wrapped around bolts to mount. I bought 2 packs of 5 cable lugs to fix em all, still need to go under and fix those 2 or 3 as well. The bolt for AC comp broke off, so they wedged a piece of wood to keep tension on the belt. AC is all junk anyways, don't need it used to the heat here. Stereo was just a hole filler too. Missing the fan shroud, to AC fan was broke, so I found and put in an electric fan wired to KOER only, fuse relay....

Passenger kick panel and floor does have rust, can see light outside the car. not worried about that, have a mig/stick welder if I get urge to repair it. It's just a transpo car to get into Cebu City from the mountain I live on 18 km's away. Never thought I'd own a car here, but I do lol....Just wish I could afford to ship my 40+ year collection of Snap-On etc tools here (think it's about $10,000 in 20 ft container YIKES!) Will, just bring back as many as possible when and IF I ever go home for visit/emergency. So for now I just buy cheapo tools I need to get by here.

So I finally got time to go work on the car. Now for life of me I know it has to something stupid, throwing me off in the head. Since I've been a certified tech in many areas, forklifts, Cummins engines, Ford and Dodge/Chrysler vehicles. I rechecked the pedal assembly, verified the cable was actually set in the hook of the arm properly. Had measured both cables end to end exactly same lengths hmmmmm Don"t get how once routed properly, and attached, it came up like an inch+ short on threaded end at shift lever arm. Again, both ends are bolted tight on the shafts, and see no spline stripping, of turning....

Finally, curious as to how much threads at trans shift lever should be showing once a new cable is installed by those of you who have done it? Something, somewhere is screwed up I WILL find it eventually HAHA...I did the adjusting 0.5 mm-1.5 mm (lever don't move much at trans) and pedal did have 1" play. Theoretically this should have been a slam dunk repair in my head haha Which is hard to get up under the dash now days for a 6 foot old guy.

Peace, and again THANKS ! will pop in time to time and read more. Think I've found the RIGHT site, for GOOD info regarding these vehicles !!

Stevo
 
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