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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
After months of work, painting, modifying, fixing, etc, I finally got to test out my Samurai in the wild. Here are some pictures of wheeling on sand dunes:


This is as stuck as I could get, with those big tires :)


Since then I received my ARB bullbar and OME steering stabilizer, and here's a picture with them installed:


During my test drive on the dunes, I faced a couple of problems. One of my transfer case mounts, the upper left one, got ripped off, causing the T/C to hit the underneath of my car body everytime I move on forward, which sort of ruined the fun. I replaced all four with new stock mounts. Are they strong enough to handle the extra load from the 6.5:1 gears? Or should I go for Aluminium custom mounts?

I also got diff oil leaking from the right side of my front axle housing, where the spherical shape is; probably a broken oil seal, but I have yet to open it up and have a look. You can see the oil spot on the floor in the picture, which depicts where the diff oil is leaking.
 

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Great to see it running!



:( Seatbelts??? :(
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Looking good!
You can get HD mounts that are basically bolts with poly bushings and washers. They will not break.


Well you see, I was thinking since I'll change the whole mounting kit, I'll go for a mounting kit plus skid plate, wouldn't that be better? Like this one from Calmini:


BTW, who's the maker of those mounts?

Great to see it running!



:( Seatbelts??? :(
Yeah ... strange I really don't remember driving it without the seatbelt! I guess I forgot. This was right after the TC mount got ripped off, and I was so concerned and wasn't sure where the problem was, so I guess I forgot to buckle-up.
 

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Well you see, I was thinking since I'll change the whole mounting kit, I'll go for a mounting kit plus skid plate, wouldn't that be better? Like this one from Calmini:


BTW, who's the maker of those mounts?
Of course! The t-case skid is essential. That Calmini version popped up after the original Trail Tough Mighty Kong was proven on the trail. While taking the design and refining it a little, it didn't have as much skid protection. It does, however, come with the poly bushing mounts I was talking about.

Mighty Kong

Oh, the photo of the heavy duty t-case arm and poly bushings was done for a review I did of a Rocky Road Outfitters product. I think he still uses that photo on his site. Before the integrated arms/skid products came out, this was the best way to keep your t-case from twisting. Note the bolt holes where the old drum brake used to mount (circling the rear output shaft area).
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Of course! The t-case skid is essential. That Calmini version popped up after the original Trail Tough Mighty Kong was proven on the trail. While taking the design and refining it a little, it didn't have as much skid protection. It does, however, come with the poly bushing mounts I was talking about.

Mighty Kong

Oh, the photo of the heavy duty t-case arm and poly bushings was done for a review I did of a Rocky Road Outfitters product. I think he still uses that photo on his site. Before the integrated arms/skid products came out, this was the best way to keep your t-case from twisting. Note the bolt holes where the old drum brake used to mount (circling the rear output shaft area).
Just went to RRO site to see it. They are only arms, no skid plates. Those skid plates are ridiculously expensive! About $300 for a small piece of metal! Do the arms themselves get swisted?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Ok, here are some pictures I took this morning with the bushwacker fender flares, ARB bullbar, and the relocated door mirrors. I had a very hard time unbolting the door hinge screws; had to heat them extensively to be able to do it. Damaged the paint on the hinge, but that's ok, since it will be covered up with the bracket.





I apologize for the trash in the background.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Ok, here are some more pictures in action:


And this one with me standing next to it, watching the other guys while they're desperately trying to get out of the sand:


Towing a Nissan Pathfinder:

Having some fun:
 

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don't forget in sand, air down. you want a soft tire to float over the sand. fully aired up tires (street psi) will just dig in and down. I drive on the beach in 2wd all the time.
Having a nice light vehicle with a tire with a fat footprint is what you want.
Oh, nice and clean look on your rig!
 

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haha sand in my area is so bludy soft it still grabs me sometimes with my tires at 20 psi, even in 4wd. never tried 2wd...
 

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...no, I'm talking real low. Back when I would surf fish and ran 31" AT rubber on 8" wide rims I would air down to 6 to 8 psi. I started at about 12 psi but would still dig. I think I ram something like 16 to 25 psi on the road. The way to figure what you should run on the road is chalk your tires and drive in a straight line. Then look at what wore off. Outsides too low, center too much.
Think the difference in a hard shopping cart wheel and a balloon. What one will push the sand, the other will envelope and float over it.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
haha sand in my area is so bludy soft it still grabs me sometimes with my tires at 20 psi, even in 4wd. never tried 2wd...
20 psi?! 15 psi is street driving pressure for my 33"ers! On sand with large tires you have to visually see the tires flattenning like a camel foot. With those 33"ers this only happens when pressure is less than 10 PSI. In the video my pressure was around 5 PSI.
 

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i only hav 215/75's on mine, so about 28"??... local tire experts originally told me 35psi, but after pressures everyone else talks about on here i decided to try 20... 10 is the lowest i go under any circumstance, i had them at 7 once on sand, ended up flat with nothing solid to put the jack on... geez that was fun changing that, car didnt go up, the jack just went down.
 
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