The 100 amp fuse is bolted in and yes it may affect the charging, Test the circuit before replacing, it would require a dead short to blow it..
Alternator
Just bought a 2004 Forenza, and the alternator isn't charging the battery, but it looks brand new. I noticed a 100 amp cube fuse on the positive battery terminal that looks to be blown. Two questions, would that affect the alternator from charging and Two how do you take it out
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How does it come out of the socketThe 100 amp fuse is bolted in and yes it may affect the charging, Test the circuit before replacing, it would require a dead short to blow it..
How does it come out of the socket
Did you miss this ?The 100 amp fuse is bolted in.
If that fuse were in fact blown, there would/should be no power to the vehicle electrics/electronics, you would/should not be able to even start the vehicle.
Fordem, if someone has been monkeying around with it chasing faults, could that fuse just be for the alternator?
I'm not up on the reno or forenza wiring diagrams but do they have a main fuse and a separate alt fuse? And someone's replaced it with the wrong one?
I'm not up on the reno or forenza wiring diagrams but do they have a main fuse and a separate alt fuse? And someone's replaced it with the wrong one?
I don't have the Reno/Forenza diagrams and wasn't able to dig up anything online that I wouldn't have had to pay for - that said, the parts manual shows a single 100A fuse at the positive battery post, and that suggests it's the "main fuse", which means the only circuit not supplied via that fuse would be the starter motor.
It would/should take no more than a minute or two with a DMM to determine if that fuse is blown or not.
As for the possibility of someone monkeying around - at that point all bets are off, remote troubleshooting isn't going to work, take the vehicle to an auto electrician who can see what has been done. It's hard enough trying to teach basic electrical troubleshooting concepts from a distance without having to figure out what the last person on the vehicle "butchered" - I've seen discussions on this forum run for literally months over simple wiring issues that I could have resolved in an hour or two had I been hands on.
It would/should take no more than a minute or two with a DMM to determine if that fuse is blown or not.
As for the possibility of someone monkeying around - at that point all bets are off, remote troubleshooting isn't going to work, take the vehicle to an auto electrician who can see what has been done. It's hard enough trying to teach basic electrical troubleshooting concepts from a distance without having to figure out what the last person on the vehicle "butchered" - I've seen discussions on this forum run for literally months over simple wiring issues that I could have resolved in an hour or two had I been hands on.
HEAR ! HEAR !.I've seen discussions on this forum run for literally months over simple wiring issues that I could have resolved in an hour or two had I been hands on.
I noticed today that there was smoke coming out of the oil filler cap and dipstick, the car is not running hot nor is there any knocking noise, when I rev it up. cannot afford to be nickeled and dime to death to fix it up
I would but the alternator is bad, so I wouldn't be able to drive it far.
Is the alternator actually bad? Have you tested it at its output terminal? The big stud one? What voltage is there ign off? What voltage engine at about 2500 rpm? If you gave 13.5 or better at the terminal, then the alternator isn't your issue.
I tested it at the battery, and it reads 12.06v on/off revd up or idlingIs the alternator actually bad? Have you tested it at its output terminal? The big stud one? What voltage is there ign off? What voltage engine at about 2500 rpm? If you gave 13.5 or better at the terminal, then the alternator isn't your issue.
Where is the alternator fuse located,
Test it at the alternator output stud, as I requested to prove alternator is actually faulty or not. Once you prove that then you know whether its a wiring or fuse issue, or a dead alternatorI tested it at the battery, and it reads 12.06v on/off revd up or idling
I shorted across the fuse and the ohm meter started reading 14.6 so the alternator is good now just need to replace the fuseTest it at the alternator output stud, as I requested to prove alternator is actually faulty or not. Once you prove that then you know whether its a wiring or fuse issue, or a dead alternator
The 100 amp fuse is bolted in and yes it may affect the charging, Test the circuit before replacing, it would require a dead short to blow it..
I shorted across the fuse and the ohm meter started reading 14.6 so the alternator is good now just need to replace the fuse
You keep saying it is bolted in, my is attached to the positive cable on the battery
Can you post a photo of it pleaseYou keep saying it is bolted in, my is attached to the positive cable on the battery
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