Ok, I will try that once again. Someone suggested I solder the terminals to the wires so I am going to try that first.Take it to Autozone or whoever you have there. They can test the alt and battery right in the parking lot in no time to see what the issue is.
Or you can pull the alt and have it bench tested.
Make sure that your wiring is proper first off.
Engineers aren't generally the people who drive the decisions in the industry, that is done by the accountants, left up to the engineers, we wouldn't be able to afford the vehicle.My basic rule of thumb is that on their worst day, those automotive engineers at Suzuki and Chevy are smarter than me. So if they wanted the wire soldered, they would have soldered it.
Yes Phil, I'm aware of that - crimping works well when properly done, but few of us have the tools, terminals & experience to do a proper crimp - I don't work in avionics and if my engine dies on me, I don't have to worry about finding a cloud to park it on.In the aircraft sector, soldering is frowned on as it induces areas of fatigue where the solder ends and un-tinned wire starts... Just a bit of trivia...
Exert from manual
"Crimping offers stronger, more reliable connections than soldering. Soldering uses heated metal to join the cable to the connector. Over time, this filler metal will degrade, which may cause the connection to fail "
I don't know. But when it comes to whether to solder the alternator wire to the ring terminal, I believe Chevy and Suzuki both reached the same decision. I just said they were smarter than me, not smarter than each other.Let me ask you this, are Suzukis engineer's smarter than GM's own?
Maybe. But this is classic inductive reasoning - moving from observation to idea. Viz:It's a matter of cost, and GM felt that the smaller disks were adequate, Suzuki chose to go for safety.
This is why I recommended caution. I don't think the OP is familiar with auto electrics.I can't get the 80 amp fuse out.
I am running out of places to look.TWO screws hold the fuse in place - disconnect the battery, unbolt the fuse box from the fender and turn it over, you'll see what needs to be done to get the fuse out.
Why are you trying to remove the fuse? Based on the previous discussion I doubt it is your problem, if it was defective (blown) there would be no electrical power and the vehicle would not start.