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Discussion Starter #1
Good day to all Zuk lovers!!!

I own a SUZUKI SCRUM F6A, 3 cylinder x 12valve, 657cc (660),
rear-mounted EFI engine, 5 gear MT. (attached photos)
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After reading other threads, I feel lucky na converted na ang wipers
at hindi tinanggal ang thermostat. As-is lang siya nung binili ko last
March 16, 2006 (P100T) walang A/C at hindi mags, pero ok pa naman
yung interior. Me additional features siya, Power steering, window at
door lock. Hindi na gumagana yung CD pero ok pa yung AM/FM pero
hanggang 90kHz lang, hehe. Kumpleto pa speakers sa loob.
View attachment 4205

Three weeks ago, my zuks won't start, walang redondo, only the
"tik-tik-tik" sound. After the mechanic diagnosed the problem,
he tried charging the battery but found it damaged
already (it won't charge). I have it charged myself to another
place just to check if he's telling the truth (P30 charging fee is
cheap anyway). So I found out he's telling the truth & bought a new
battery (MOTOLITE GOLD, Maint. free, 9 plates, size NS40 L).
By the way, the old battery, originally from the Casa where I bought
the zuks, was only 7plates, not Maint.Free (brand: ELECTRON).
After installing the new battery, one click, it started. After reading
some forum on the net, I also checked the alternator. When the engine
is OFF, voltage across the bat. terminals is abt. 12.6V on the aver.
After starting the engine, fast idle ng konti, probing by voltmeter reads
14.09V at the bat. terminals. Basing on the net info (U.S.), it should
range from 14.4 to 14.8 Volts. Also, you need to check the voltage
from the alternator itself & compare it to the volt. from the bat.
Check if there is a voltage drop between the two. The problem is,
no matter how the internet explains it, they still don't show where
exactly will I stick my probes on the alternator. (attached illustrations)

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View attachment 4200

Here are some interesting facts I learned from the net.

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Last week, I have my alternator checked by an auto-electrician.
He just checked the voltage accross the terminals, listened to
squeaking sound (if any) from alt. bearings & turned ON all acces.
on my Zuks. Afterwhich he concluded that my bat & alter. is ok.
I'm not 100% satisfied with what he did. I asked him to check my
under chassis wirings (shorted, grounded), check my carbon brush
& bearings but he said that my alternator is working just fine.
Also, he didn't check (or he doesn't know) the output voltage
from the alternator itself, tsk, tsk, tsk.. .

By the way he mentioned that my Alt. ampere rating is 50A & is
so far "high" compared to other multicabs he had worked on. ???
Not sure about that but I'll be happy if you tell me what's the
ampere rating of your alternator guys . . .?

Until now, I am still monitoring the voltage across my bat. terminals.
So far, it's still ranges from 14.05 to 14.10V when the engine is ON
& the accessories (headlights, stereo, etc.) are OFF. But when the
Acc. are ON, it will drop to 13.5V which is fairly low compared to
the one mentioned in the net (around 14V)???

Check also your bat. voltage with & w/o accessories ON & compare it
with mine (if you have time).

One thing din pala, dito sa Casa na kinunan namin ng Zuks, the following
accessories can be ON even if the key is not inserted:
1. headlight
2. horn
3. brake lights

Also, yung Aux.fan namin for radiator, automatic na mag rotate
after you turn the key to ACC. Kahit hindi pa nag start ang makina.
Ewan ko sa mga Casa dito sa Cebu pero pareho kami ng set up ng
halos 8 sa 10 multicab owners na tinanong ko.
How about you guys?

I doubt ito rin ang isa sa dahilan kung bakit nasira or na drain ang
battery ko. Dapat siguro gamitin ko (or paandarin ng 5min.) everyday
ang sasakyan ko para ma charge ng alternator ang bat.

Before I forget, sa pareho kong may power steering, power windows/
door lock, dapat bang mas malaki ang ampere rating ng alternator?
What is your experience with these additional features?
So far hindi pa naman sira ang kahit isa sa mga ito.

Isa pa sa na observe ko sa mga mekaniko dito sa lugar namin e,
wala masyadong alam sa EFI, pero sa carb magagaling sila.
How about diyan sa Manila?

Happy to hear soon from all the readers & Suzuki enthusiasts out there!

Have a good day.:)
 

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Nice van

Hi there Bruce Li!

You have a nice van and have seen quite a number of them here in Manila. I really like to buy this model because of the engine is located at the rear so it is not as hot as compare to front engine. But I've notice that most engine that are sold in the surplus shop and very few mechanics have the knowledge of this engine especially the fuel injected ones which is why i chose the carburator type.

I'm not sure why your auxilliary fan was connected that way (i guess to avoid overheating) but if your auxilliary fan is always "on" it will wear off quickly. It's better to put a thermostat switch that activates the aux fan when it reaches a certain temperature.

The shop where I had my AC fix had just recently installed a dual aircon just like your van and it seems holding well. Mine has a drop of performance but that "ok" with me as you barely and run 50 to 60 km here in Manila traffic. If I can only install a 5k engine that would be nice.:D

My Electrician told me that my alternator is working fine but have not figured the amperes and he is cautious on tinkering with my alternator because surplus here is not that abundant and we have to convert a surplus from a car. I plan to put a 70 amp if I have the money next year.

That's all for now, hope this helps.
 

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Hey 100k lang sya. Pabili na lang and padala mo dito.(hehehe joke lang)

Dito it is sold at around 160k to 199k. Norkis sell there front engine multi-van's at 220k. ANG MAHAL!:(

Buti ka pa power steering. Pa-picture naman ang power steering sa van mo. Makapagpalagay din.:p
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Yap, mura lang siya (P100T) pero as-is, wala siyang A/C at hindi mags.
Linagyan ko na lang ng hub cap para maganda tingnan, hehe.

By the way sa Cebu ko nabili yun (168 JM Basa Corner V. Rama St., Cebu City). Marami akong kinanvas na Casa bago ako nakabili.

Yung photo na request mo nilagay ko sa new thread. Photo was taken
at Goodyear servitec during wheel alignment (front wheel camber & toe)
about three months ago.

regards.
 

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Aircon ready

Hi there! Thanks for the power steering info and i already check that most zuk have power steering from 1999 up to present models in the carry and every model. But the early models and mid 90's most where rack and pinion as it has a 3.8 meter radius so it is already easy to maneuver.

Your picture on the other thread shows a condenser so your van is aircon ready if you also have a drier, expansion valve and evaporator. Probably you just need a new compressor, drier, expansion valve and cleaning of the evaporator if you have one.

Goodluck!:)
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Yap, aircon ready na siya kasi ni-request ko sa Casa owner na wag na
lng tanggalin ang evaporator at condenser. Total sa kanya din naman
ako magpa-install ng aircon just in case, hehe. Tinanggal ko lang muna
pansamantala ang evaporator (located in front of the radiator) kasi
sagabal sa paglinis ko sa radiator paminsan-minsan at hindi pa naman
magagamit.

One question YT: Hindi ko malaman talaga kung anong year o model
ng sasakyan ko. Tiningnan ko ang strap ng safety belt 1993 model, pero
yung kasama ko na dun din bumili sa Casa (hindi EFI at hindi PS) 1994
ang nakalagay sa safety belt strap. Hindi po ba tamang batayan ang
nakalagay sa strap? Pwede naman siguro nilang palitan ng luma o bago
upu-an kung saan nakakabit pa rin ang safety belt. Sa tingin mo 1993
model talaga yung sasakyan ko at nilagyan lang nila ng PS at kinabitan
ng EFI engine? Yung 1999 up model ba same ang chassis sa photo sa
taas or iba na ang porma?
 
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