Suzuki Forums banner

1 - 8 of 8 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
42 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Looking for insight here.

It blows my mind when someone is selling a car and they list the price as FIRM or NOT NEGOTIABLE. Soooo, if it sits there for 6 months then what? That is like saying "this vehicle is absolutely worth X dollars" when in reality nothing is worth more than what someone is willing to pay for it. If someone wants to sit on something because they need the cash or think it's worth more than they are being offered that's their perogative. But seriously, why beat yourself up over a few hunderd bucks when cash is just waiting to fall into your lap?

That in mind, I am having a pre-purchase inspection scheduled next week for a 87 Sammy. I want it inspected because, well mainly because while I know how to do a fair amount of work on cars and I understand how engines work, I am not a mechanic. It's worth a hundred bucks to have a true mechanic look before I sink a couple to a few grand into a vehicle who's history I can't prove.
This samurai had previoously been sitting for 3 years. I'm being told that it was towed for the most recent 25k miles, and it's got 140k on the clock. I suppose this is meant to be a selling point but in reality those miles still count. Bearings, transmission and suspension still take wear on those miles. I'm also being told that "the head was done". Meaning, I suppose, head gasket, valve stems, rockers, lifters, cam, I realy don't know because (of course) there is no paperwork. What I do know is that upon startup from cold the motor knocks and rattles. As it warms up it smooths out but does not completely disappear. I am being asked to believe, by the seller, that this is due to it sitting and that the gasoline is at least three years old. My fear would be that it overheated at some point, so the head was rebuilt, but that it is warped or there is top end damage that caused the owner to park it for 3 years and now it's being sold. Again, I have no real reason to suspect this, but that is why the pre-purchase inspection.

So, the owner sounds fairly convinced that he can get 3500 for it. The problem is that the tags are expired, he has no insurance on it, there are a number of cosmetic issues (missing lock on tailgate, no ragtop bow or bow mount hardware, some musty mildew carpet, some issues with the hard top sealing, the tires are dried up and need replacing, some large chips in windshield, seats are destroyed and covered, bumper is smashed a bit, clearcoat on the hood is starting to peel, the muffler is held up by bailing wire...) So a person test driving it can't safely take it on the highway to get a feel for it, nor can they drive it much at all for fear of being pulled over.

I'm interested in this rig, but not for 3500. Am I way off here? Should I save myself the 100$ for the inspection and walk away? Or is it reasonable to assume, after the inspection, that I'd have more negotiating power? I mean if the guy wont settle for less than 3500 then that's that, but you guys know sammy's and their market better than I do, what do you think?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
278 Posts
If he won't bend pass it by.
Some say 1300 are just noisey...
I'd have to agree some what. But not extremely so....
Allot of the noise Sammie's make has to do with worn cam journals. Bad gas would make it hard starting...
Noisy cold, not so noisy warm, sounds like warn mains. Check oil pressure cold vs. warm.
Have you looked in Seattle lately???? Trust me LOCO, it may be worth the drive........
....Boxcar....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
686 Posts
Is it rusty? Are you able to post a few pics?

When I buy vehicles from an unknown buyer, if it wasn't documented it wasn't done and I wont pay for "seller says". He should at least have receipts for the parts and/or labor.

I hear shipping on the bow hardware is pretty high, best research cost of replacements if it cant be repaired.

Any mods or add-ons to the vehicle?

Cost of tires, seats, bows and time invested. Just off the top of my head it sounds like about a $2000 vehicle if its not a rust bucket.

Have you checked the local Nickel, Craigs List and ebay to see what else you can get for that price range?

Its really hard to tell without seeing the vehicle but he sounds overly proud of it. What do you want it for, are you going to keep it stock and just drive it, repair it to nice condition or just a beater?

Tony
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
42 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
I saw that and was interested. I thought twice when I read that, "PSI reads 140 across all four". I thought 150 was rebuild time?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
278 Posts
I 'd look anyway. I talked to the guy. I don't think he eaven knows how to do a compression test.......Boxcar
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
26 Posts
So, the owner sounds fairly convinced that he can get 3500 for it.
I'd offer him 2500.00. 100.00 says it needs crankshaft bearings AT LEAST.

The problem is: He's probably got on this forum, or some similar, and seen some really tricked out Samis selling for 4-6K or more, and he thinks his is in the same league. Not so!

You'll sink some major coin in that ride just to get it up to par.

Give him a 2500.00 offer written on a business card. Tell him, "call me if you change your mind"

Let him stew on it a while. Anybody who starts that rig up, and hear the deep crankshaft knock, and buys it anyway, deserves what they get. They obviously have more money than sense.
 
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
Top