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Discussion Starter #1
Hi guys. Im working to get my A/C back and took truck to a tech who told me that there were no leaks, compressor is good but A/C condenser fan was not working (it was seized). So he went ahead and installed some Freon to get A/C going and it did, but told me that he did not installed all of it as he was afraid of high pressure causing some damage due to no fan. So basically my job was getting a new fan and then he would finish installing Freon properly. Well I got the fan, installed it but Compressor was not kicking in. So I said if he was able to get it going before why not now? Well it took me 4 days to get very familiar with AC wiring schematics that I got from here (thanks) and elsewhere. I did all proper tests and volt readings and it boiled down to 2 things:

1-Either there are leaks

2- Or dual pressure switch is bad, which takes me to my post question. What ohm reading should this switch have uninstalled, out of the box?

Because dual pressure switch installed is giving me and open reading, but there is Freon in the system and if both pressures (low and high) are to spec switch stays close allowing current to go from Lg wire to Yellow wire which then energizes Compressor and Fan relay. Because 12v comes from Light Green wire at dual press plug and comes out (12v) through Yellow wire at other side of plug.

That's how I knew everything is OK, because when I jumpered dual pressure switch for a couple of seconds to validate system works, fan and compressor went live. Now, either switch is bad (open condition) or it is low on Freon which makes sense for AC not blowing cold air now and raises the question about system not having leaks.

One other thing is, how he got it to cool without Fan connected? :confused: Prior to installing new fan, and after a couple of days after Tech working on truck compressor is not kicking in, thus not cooling anymore. If someone can chime in the ohm spec for that switch before installation this would shed some light as to what is going on (which I kind of know). Cheers to you guys and sorry for lengthy post!!
 

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First, you minimally need high and low side refrigerant system gauges installed and providing data in order to properly evaluate an A/C system. That and an operable compressor and condensing fan.

I speculate (based on what you've shared) that at this juncture you have insufficient refrigerant to close the low pressure side of the LP/HP switch, thus the unit is non-operational.

Those needed pressures specs will confirm my suspicions, or allow for further diagnosis should a low charge state not be the case. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yes, that i know. But then if freon is low or high, thus not having spec pressures (i called him asking him if he remembers l/h psi) how he got it to work without AC fan? But now it does not? If all is working, and he guaranteed me that there were no leaks, its 1 of 2: wrong specs on l/h psi (but when A/C was cooling does not make sense) or switch actually works, it had proper freon levels thus voltage passing thru closed switch thus energizing compressor but not fan as there was none due to being bad (original seized fan). Proving then that there are leaks.

Thx Max!
 

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how he got it to work without AC fan?
He jumpered the circuit somehow probably at the LP/HP switch or 12V+ from the battery to the compressor clutch.

Yes he may have gotten the system to start, but without a fully functioning fan, it never really "ran" (cooled properly) so to speak. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thats the thing, when I was installing Fan and inspecting wiring for A/C, everything was untouched. He only left A/C fan disconnected after he diagnosed it as bad and only applying freon to get it cooling (half assed, but cooling).

Now is not cooling at all with everything on. Thats why I suspect it is low on Freon or has leaks or switch just crapped out on me. Ill let you know.

Cheers!!
 

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So basically my job was getting a new fan and then he would finish installing Freon properly. Well I got the fan, installed it but Compressor was not kicking in.
It seems to me that you've missed a step - taking it back for him to "finish installing Freon properly.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Yes, that would over rule everything and bring system back to working properly, but my fear is that mechanical and electrical components are working now (I did all tests) and then take it to him to finish his part and then something else f---'s up and comes with a whole new story about something wrong.

Thats why I making sure how system works and everything is Ok, so I can at least let him know if he tells me different. I can quickly show him all is working by just jumping dual pressure switch, or fan independently or compressor independently for a couple of seconds? Or do nothing and just let him apply proper freon psi and take it from there?

Cheers!!
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
It seems to me that you've missed a step - taking it back for him to "finish installing Freon properly.
Studying that schematic I concluded that if I jumper dual pressure plug, fan and compressor kick in. Also at relays independently, they both work.

If Im not mistaken, if all AC amp inputs are OK, and 12v goes out Lg wire (with heater 25a fuse OK) thru dual switch out to Yellow wire then on to fan and compressor relays, they work. Now, if freon loop if not at spec or a bad switch, then they would not work. But he got it cooling somehow, at least the day we took it to him.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Wanted to thank everybody for your answers. A/C is back on the truck for the first time in many years. Dual pressure switch was working properly. The second freon started flowing, compressor kicked-in. We ran into a small problem as I had installed Condsr
Fan with wrong polarity. I followed blue to blue and black to black but Universal fans are a bitch. We fixed it and now all is good.

Cheers!!
 
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