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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm going to change the automatic transmission fluid and filter in my '97 Sport 1.8L DOHC 4x4 ABS 4-spd auto. Is there anything unusual I need to know about? How is the dip stick tube handled? Is it sealed to the pan with a grommet?

Thanks for your help.
 

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If I'm not mistaken, the 4 speed auto on that vehicle is the Aisin Warner AW4 (or a derivative) - the dipstick tube does not detach from the pan, but it is a two piece tube which comes apart half way up, and there is an O ring there.

There's not much of a filter either, more of a mesh screen - the guys here just wash it clean and put it back.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks. The pan is 14 bolts and I see kits for the 4-speed, 14 bolts, listed as "deep pan". If I'm not going to replace the filter, I would assume a "deep" or "regular" pan takes the same gasket. But out of curiosity, are there two variations of the pan?
 

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I'm not aware of a deeper pan, although I have heard of people cutting and welding two pans together to make one.
 

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The gasket is most likely the same, the filter is what will be different - the filter is also the pickup, so it needs to sit lower in a deeper pan
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
As I suspected from rough shifting, the fluid probably had never been changed in its 101k history. It looked like Russian Olympic drinking water.

No problem pulling the pan and cleaning it and the filter except for the front drive shaft which has to come off. I found a Fel-Pro gasket which has the undersized holes so you can install all of the bolts through the pan and into the gasket before putting the pan up. Really makes a difference.

The book says to pre-fill with 2.7 quarts, run it through the gears then add the remaining 5 quarts. I put something less than 3 in, ran it then added around 4. It was over-filled and I had to pump a quart+ out. Even though I let it drain over night, I guess the torque converter still had about a quart and a half in it.

What I pumped out was pretty dirty-looking so I will pull the plug, drain it and re-fill with new in a couple of weeks.

The good news is that the rough shifting is gone.
 

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Good to hear - what fluid are you using?

You can't drain the torque converter without removing it.

My GV is a 5 speed, but my Pajero also uses the AW4 and Mitsubishi recommends a slightly different fluid change process which I'll share with you...

How they do it is to remove the cooler hose where it comes out of the radiator (the cooler is in bottom radiator tank) and direct it into a bucket, and then start and idle the engine for one minute, or until fluid stops flowing, and then you drain the pan. The next step is to measure how much fluid came out, and add that amount (don't forget to replace the drain plug), and you follow that up with another one minute idle (or again until the fluid stops), and then you top up as necessary.

This method pumps fresh fluid into the torque converter whilst draining the old fluid, preventing it from mixing with the fresh fluid in the pan - some amount of contamination will occur, but I'd like to think it's significantly reduced.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
The stick says Dextron III so that's what I used. When I drain it the next time I'll pump out the TC as you suggest.

Thanks for the tip.
 
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