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If I understand your post correctly, I would think you actually need to do a compression test first, to confirm the valve timing of the engine. Often this is done incorrectly. And then check your ignition timing. The valve timing is done to cylinder #4 firing, the ignition to cylinder #1 firing. You should not need to have your distributor turned all the way for the car to run properly.
You may want to advise exactly how the car runs - what cold idle is, what warm idle is, if the car hesitates or has good power, etc. But I would start with a compression test.
 

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Compression test will give an idea if the valves are not closing at the same time as the piston comes up to compress. If this timing is off then compression will be low. That can happen from a slipped/improperly installed timing belt or bad crankshaft keyway.

If it is low, next thing would be remove the timing cover and go from there. Don't mess with the distributor until you know the timing is correct at the belt side.

Mine when I got it was the same way, the distributor had to be turned all the way one way to make it run at all, and it was still low on power. But the previous owner had the timing belt installed wrong, and then had the distributor installed wrong too. Runs great once I fixed it all.
 

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I have put plugs rotter bug cap wires got heat I had to turn the distruter cap all the way to the right runs lot better and shifts better could timing jump just a little bet
Usually when you need to fully rotate the distributor to get decent (or semi-decent) performance, the keyway will be torn (crank nut not torqued to 94 ft. lbs). This happens most often of 16 valve models but is usually repairable. Another possibility is a jumped timing belt tooth. A compression check will reveal these problems.
 
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