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Discussion Starter #1
Ok so this tracker is a week new to me (it's been good so far and no signs of doping at all) 180k on it and the engine and trans and has been taken care of somewhat from the look of things.
I think I am in limp mode because this thing has NO POWER, it's hard to accelerate unless I am almost pedal to the metal which I try not to do, no odd noises though I think there is a misfire.
I am going to give it a tune up around 9:45 tomorrow before work to see if there is any noticeable difference and to try and get a computer reset.

So far all I can diagnose is a tune up needed, dimmer switch to turn my dash board lights back on(ordered and on it's way), and 3 gaskets replaced because they're giving a SUPER slow leak (trans filter, rear main, and oil pan gasket).

Other than that the thing is sound but gets crappy acceleration and crappy mpg.

Overall what causes limp mode and or crap acceleration besides the spark plugs, distributor and plug wires? And how do I get out of Limp mode? is there a bypass mod for this limp mode?

thanks and cheers!
 

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Is your check engine light on with the key on, and off once the car is running? Can you get a code 12 from the computer? Instructions on how to do that here:
Check Engine Light
If you can, it is unlikely that you are in fail safe mode, described here:
Fail Safe and Limp Modes
As the car is new to you, you should perform a compression test on the engine, to confirm that the engine timing is correct. On your 16v, you should pull about 190psi on all cylinders. If not, you will need to check your timing, as well as confirm that the crank pulley bolt is torqued to 94 ft/lbs. If you find it is torqued correctly, don't remove it (and you do not need to remove this when changing the timing belt).
By the way, the car is not AWD, but part time 4wd, which is totally different. You NEVER drive this car with the hubs locked and transfer case in 4wd on any dry surface - only on surfaces where the wheels can slip.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
how is it not awd/4x4 when it has that?
and no, no check engine light and I have no clue how to check for compression.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Is your check engine light on with the key on, and off once the car is running? Can you get a code 12 from the computer? Instructions on how to do that here:
Check Engine Light
If you can, it is unlikely that you are in fail safe mode, described here:
Fail Safe and Limp Modes
As the car is new to you, you should perform a compression test on the engine, to confirm that the engine timing is correct. On your 16v, you should pull about 190psi on all cylinders. If not, you will need to check your timing, as well as confirm that the crank pulley bolt is torqued to 94 ft/lbs. If you find it is torqued correctly, don't remove it (and you do not need to remove this when changing the timing belt).
By the way, the car is not AWD, but part time 4wd, which is totally different. You NEVER drive this car with the hubs locked and transfer case in 4wd on any dry surface - only on surfaces where the wheels can slip.
And there isn't a check engine light at all
I'll take a video driving it to work and post it later to see if you guys can diagnose anything
 

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99 Tracker, 5 door, 2L, 4x4
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And there isn't a check engine light at all
I'll take a video driving it to work and post it later to see if you guys can diagnose anything
The very first item on the list is to ensure the CEL is indeed installed and not burned out. The light is your main diagnostic tool to the ECU..

.... Philip
 

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99 Tracker, 5 door, 2L, 4x4
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how is it not awd/4x4 when it has that?
AWD and 4X4 are two separate and distinct systems.... They do not work under the same conditions..

What you have is a 4X4 system, that does not have a differential between the front and rear. Should you drive on a non slip surface the drive train will experience drive train wind up, which could end costing you many $$$ for the test..

.... Philip
 

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If you look at the dash just above your speedometer, you will see a row of lights that go on when your key is in the on position. From left to right they are check engine light, oil light, brake light, 4wd light, blank, battery, seat belt, blank. You need to make sure that the check engine light works with the key in the on (not accessory or start) position. If this light does not go on, you will have to check to make sure that the bulb works. This is the only way that you can see what the computer is trying to tell you.
As the car is new to you, it would be prudent to also run a compression test, which verifies the engine timing. It is a goose chase to try to diagnose anything, without proper compression and a working check engine light.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
again, how do I check compression? lol I have no idea how to check the compression :|
 

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Discussion Starter #9
AWD and 4X4 are two separate and distinct systems.... They do not work under the same conditions..

What you have is a 4X4 system, that does not have a differential between the front and rear. Should you drive on a non slip surface the drive train will experience drive train wind up, which could end costing you many $$$ for the test..

.... Philip
AH thanks for the clarification :D
 

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99 Tracker, 5 door, 2L, 4x4
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again, how do I check compression? lol I have no idea how to check the compression :|
  1. Remove all plugs,
  2. disable spark and fuel,
  3. fully charge battery,
  4. connect pressure gauge to spark hole,
  5. Crank until needle peaks...
  6. Record PSI...

repeat steps 4-6 on all cylinders.
Repeat all , but add teaspoon oil in each cylinder before connecting gauge.
Report findings

... Philip
 

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Are you able to pull the gear selector down into third and get a lower gear? If so, this is what i experianced and i required a "transmission control module" (TCM)
 

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Huh? I don't think that the original poster has identified his transmission.

Deadpool, you should put your car specs into your signature. And if you are doing a compression test, an easy way to disable fuel and spark is to remove the F1 fuse under the dash. Also floor the gas pedal while you are cranking (usually about 5 cranks will cause the compression tester to peak), to give you the highest compression rating.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Alright I found the problem today and you aren't going to believe it.
I wasn't able to tune up the car due to interviews and well, life, so I did it right after work today.
Well I took the distributor cap off and pulled out what was left of the rotor, the WRONG rotor which was mangled and shoved on there, somehow in the correct position but the wrong rotor which chewed up the rotor and the distributor cap.
WELL, threw some new spark plug and wires on it and a distributor cap and the RIGHT rotor and presto change-o it works perfect!

still miss the power of my old Jeep GC and my Ford Explorer sport BUT I'll get over it or figure out how to up the ante on the acceleration at least or get it a little bit more horsey power, I just might slap a my little pony sticker on the engine for more horses.

EDIT:
Those spark plugs were CHEWED up, I suspect from the wrong rotor or they were older than Methuselah
 

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Glad you found your problem....but I still think that a compression test is in order. While this car is no v8, it should be peppy like any 4 cylinder car.....
 

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Tony Breeze

June 2014: Have just had limp mode problem with Suzuki GV DDis in the UK. To cut a long story short, both vehicles seem to have what they call variable geometry turbo or variable vane turbos fitted. This means there are vanes in the turbo that are moved by a vacuum to give more or less compression. These vanes get clogged with carbon and stick either open or closed causing the car to go into limp mode. The expensive cure is to have the turbo taken off and professionally cleaned (UK cost £600) but the cheaper method is to buy a spray turbo cleaner (or some use oven cleaner) and spray it into your turbo then waggle the small arm that goes from the vacuum to the turbo until it becomes free again.

I was quoted £600 GBP and the spray method worked and cost be £8 GBP
 

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Whoops, Tony...this side of the forum is for the older 1989-1998 Trackicks. No GV's on this side, and certainly no 'variable vane turbos'!! ;)
 
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