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Discussion Starter #1
a calmini exhaust header & hi flow system was put on this samurai , that i had bought a month ago. my questions are i can not find the main plug for the o2 sensor, may have been cut or pulled off? no plug there, i know what plug looks like, none to be found? so what color wire should i look for, and also is this a heated o2 sonsor ? i feel this would affect how well it would run!! thanx in advance for all help and advice!!
 

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What is your location? some markets don't have an O2 sensor fitted. Do you have a Check Engine Light on? if not does it come on when you turn the ignition on?
 

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In the wiring harness running along the top of inner fender on the drivers side there should be a large blue wire. That's it. Mine changes to a smaller red wire as it enters the plug.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
i am in PA. right now the motor is out being rebuilt, prev owner put reman motor in got off ebay from AZ , and after 250 miles i pulled out for bad blow by, found rings broke but cylinder walls looked great there is black tape over lights on dash , just getting ducks in row for engine return!
 

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Being heated I have no idea. All I know is there is just the one wire at the sensor. After looking up Bosch universal o2 sensors one wire looks to be non heated.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
thanx zooki 4x4 & merlin 93 , the wire was on driver side top of inner fender and a red wire like u said zooki 4x4 . merlin93 if not heated what does the ecm read from the o2 senser then
 

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The O2 sensor outputs a small voltage, less than 1 volt, that is proportional to the air/fuel ratio. Rich mixtures read higher, and lean mixtures run lower, with stochiometric (properly balanced) being just under one-half volt. The sensor needs to be hot to work properly, which is one reason that heated sensors are used nowadays. There's a huge amount of information available by googling. Although an electrical engineer, I'm not very knowledgeable about O2 sensors. My Zuk ran better, and passed smog in Calif. with more margin, after I replaced mine at about 15 years & 100K miles.
 

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The position of the sensor bung is close enough to the exhaust ports that it heats up to operating temperature in about 30 seconds under cold conditions. Usually by the time the cold idle kicks down, the O2 sensor is hot enough to operate properly. Calmini has there bung pretty far down by the collector. It probably takes a few seconds more to heat up, but nothing you would notice from the drivers seat. I know with my thorely header it's a stretch for the o2 sensor wire runing through the stock mounts for the wire loom. You may need to re-route your wire to reach the hole for the sensor.

Also, I don't know the reason why calmini never got a CARB cert for their header. It's a bit of extra work, but Thorley did it, and they own the market in CARB controled states. It may be that the calmini header can't pass the CARB smog test due to it's design, or it may be that they didn't feel it was worth the investment to get it certified. If you do live in a state that uses the CARB standard for their smog testing, you will need to have a Thorley header to pass smog.
 

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A one-wire sensor should be mounted near the exhaust ports because it relies on the exhaust gasses to heat it, under load the sensor gets too hot to work properly. The ECU uses pre-determined thresholds to decide when the sensor is too hot or too cold to operate correctly.
The manufacturers moved the sensor location further downstream when heated O2 sensors were introduced, you can heat the sensor up but not cool it down, the heater allows the sensor to remain operational over a wider range of temperatures.
If your sensor is a one-wire and is mounted too low then it isn't likely to be working at its best.
 
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