Suzuki Forums banner

1 - 17 of 17 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi All, I'm new here and have some (lots of) questions about a problem w/my 92. I've had it for 1 1/2 yrs. now and no probs till now. Was driving it, when instantly it lost power. Only way I could keep it running was to pump accelerator fast and furious. Figured it was a fuel problem. Well, towed it home and replaced the fuel filter first. When replacing it, the fuel would not stop flowing from tank. Yes, I did relieve pressure first. Is this common or should the in-tank pump stop fuel from flowing when battery is disconnected? Maybe pump problem? Then diconnected the fuel line from the throttle body and had wife turn key on while I held line in a bucket. Then pump ran for a few seconds and fuel flowed (not heavy,but was flowing). Then pump shut off. Maybe pump problem?
I know this model has a fuel pump relay on the PCM and a fuel regulator on the throttle body and I have no way of checking these. Also it could be the PCM, but I can't find a used one and new they run about $500 thru NAPA.
So does anyone have any suggestions for a home mechanic or any books like "Suzuki Samurai for the Complete Idiot":wacko:? Frustrated and about ready to take Sammy to a mechanic:eek:.
Thanks for any help or suggestions, Country
PS. It still runs when started, only when heavy pumping the accelerator. I do see gas spray in the mouth of throtle body when it is being started and running. If I place my hand over the mouth of the throttle body and leave very little opening, then it does run a little better.
Also, is there an analyzer that I could buy that might diagnose problems when they arise?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
Well, I've been doing some reading here and found acks faqs. Wow what a wealth of info. I din't know about the DTCs. Didn't even know I had a check engine light:blush: Guess my bulb is burned out. I'll be replacing that first thing in the morning and checking the codes. Let you know what I find out.
Country
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Ok, Found out someone had removed bulb at some point. Bulb now replaced and my code is 12 so I guess that rules out my ECM (PCM). Any pointers would be much appreciated.
Thanks, Country
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,230 Posts
if it runs better when you restrict airflow to the throat, then there is a good chance you have a vacuum leak somewhere and it's getting too much un-metered air. Check around for loose cracked or damaged vacuum lines. Spray some carb cleaner around the intake manifold where the throttle body bolts to it and where it mates with the engine block. If the idle speed changes, then you've found a vacuum leak.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the response Baratacus, I've thoroughly gone over the vacuum hoses and am almost positive there is not a leak there. Maybe the throttle body/intake manifold as you said. I'll check that out. Should the fuel flow freely from the gas tank when changing the filter in this 92. I thought the in-tank pump would restrict the flow. I don't know. Also, when the fuel line is disconnected from the throttle body and key is turned on, should the pump continue to pump? The pump only ran for a few seconds when I tried this. I thought it would continue to run since the pressure could not build up.
Now when I try to start it, it will run good for 2-3 seconds and stop. It seems to me that it is starved for fuel and the problem could be the pump, the the fuel pressure regulator, or maybe the injector. Though when I look in the throttle body w/wife trying to start it, it seems to have a good pattern, it just won't keep running.
I'll check the TB/IM junction as you said tomorrow.
Thanks again, Country
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,230 Posts
If the pump had pressurized the line and charged it with fuel but there was an obstruction, the fuel would spit out when you cracked the line. Was it flowing like Just the line was emptying or was it a continuous flow like it was going to empty the tank if you didn't stop it up?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
The fuel only flowed for the few seconds that the pump was running. Even tho the key was still on, the pump stopped after a few seconds and so did the fuel flow. It didn't seem like alot of pressure, just sort of flowing out, not spurting. I thought it would probably spurt out in that situation, but it didn't.
What about the fuel siphoning out of the line when I was replacing the fuel filter. Why would the fuel flow thru the in-tank pump like that unless there is a problem with the pump. I had relieved the pump pressure and disconnected the battery and expected the line to empty, but the the fuel wouldn't stop flowing. Finally I was able to clamp the rubber portion of the hose on top of the gas tank and stop it. Otherwise the fuel would have all siphoned out. Guess I'll have to have someone do a pressure check on the fuel line and see if the pressure is in range.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
150 Posts
Most modern electric fuel pumps are controled by the computer. Once you turn on the switch it will prime the line but if it doesn't crank the computer shuts it back off to stop a fire hazzard incase of an accident. The TBI systems do not run the high pressure like a multiport type system. Haynes manual shows 24 to 30 psi at idle. It kind of sounds like your injector has went bad or has trash in it. As for the free flowing it might have just had a good down hill run once started and wouldn't stop. I think the pump is a turbine type and doesn't block off but just quits turning and pushing fuel. So if it has a good flow going it could just keep running out fuel with an open line while off. At least I think so.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Baratacus, I tried to check throttle body/manifold connection this morning. I don't think there is a leak there, but it is hard to keep it running long enough to be sure.

Zooki4X4, Thanks on the fuel pump help. At least I know the fuel pouring thru pump during filter change and pump not running for safety issues don't indicate a bad pump. Haynes manual says the injector should emit a conical flow, but then again it won't run long enough to tell. I do see flow into the throttle body when trying to start it tho.

any thoughts on the fuel pressure regulator?

Thanks again, Country
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Hey Zooki4X4, I just noticed we're almost neighbors. I'm in Galax area. Would love to have you stop by sometime if you might be in the area anytime soon. I was going to take it to Rodney at S&S garage in Woodlawn this week. The guys at NAPA said he would PROBABLY be the best around here to work on it, but would much rather fix it myself if I could just figure out what is wrong. I just don't have any diagnostic equipment and hate to start buying parts and replacing things if I don't know what's really wrong.
Thanks again for your help, Country
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Well today I removed the fuel injector and checked it out. Doesn't seem to have any gunk in or around it. When I put it back, same old story. Had the wife crank it again and looked at the flow in the throttle body. It just doesn't seem to be up to par. I then tried pouring a liitle fuel directly in the throttle body and it ran great every time until the fuel would run out. I'm leaning towards the fuel pump being the problem. Sooo, my question now is if it would work to test it with a cheaper pump than the in-tank pump first. Probably the type of pump many of you seem to be using to convert from mechanical to electric. Heck, maybe just switch over to that type pump, if possible, for ease of installation and repairs down the road. Any thoughts?
Thanks, Country
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
Sorry, missed that part.
I hate replacing those things, especially the high pressure versions on the FI models.
You got that right. Luckily there is(was) a rust spot in the bed directly over the tank and I peeled back the rust and was able to clamp the rubber part of the line off so that the fuel would stop flowing. Otherwise I guess I would have had to drain the tank completely before changing the pump.
What if I opened up the hole in the bed even more and installed a T/with a pressure guage in-line to be able to check fuel pressure? I don't know if anyone around here would have the adapter for the banjo fitting to check pressure at the in-line side of the filter like the Haynes manual says is the way to do it on these FI models.
Also, does anyone have any idea where a reasonably priced injector and pressure regulator might be had? Still looking for suggestions on whether or not it might work to install an external fuel pump if this one is bad.
Thanks all, Country
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,230 Posts
I think a new electric pump (external) would be a simple and cost effective way of ruling the pump out of the equation. It would probably cost less than a fuel pressure gauge, and definitely less than a regulator and injector.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
Think I'll try the ext. pump first and see what happens. At least that will rule out one more thing. Probably won't be for a couple days and I'll let you know what happens.
 
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
Top