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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Question:

1992 Geo tracker

My fuel gauge won't work and my e brake light is on. The car will run fine if I keep foot on accelerator, but if I turn on turn signal or headlights it bogs down and shuts off.

I roll to a stop in neutral because it's a five speed but as soon as it looses throttle it bogs down and tries to stay running. I tap the gas and it stays running.....


Also when you press on the break it bogs down


Any idea?
 

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You need to start from the beginning - do a compression test on the engine to make sure that the engine timing is correct. When doing the test, remove the F1 fuse to stop fuel and spark, remove all the spark plugs, and floor the gas pedal when you are cranking for best compression. Post your results by cylinder. Then you will also need to check your ignition timing, making sure that your spark plugs are gapped to .028", and ignition timing is set correctly. It doesn't make sense to start 'diagnosing' until you have the confirmation of proper engine/ignition timing.
You should also advise if the check engine light is on with the key on, and off once the car starts. And advise exactly what the car does from cold start - what cold start idle is; if the car warms up to proper running temp (do you have great heat in the cab?), what warm idle is, etc.

Regarding some of the symptoms you describe:
For the brake light remaining on - of course first confirm that your parking brake is fully down. Aside from that, make sure that your brake fluid is fully topped up in the master cylinder - the light will go on if the fluid is just the smallest bit down. Try these things first - you also have rear wheel anti lock brakes in your car - if the fluid top up, etc., doesn't work, advise, and we can show you how to pull codes from the brake computer, to see what problem computer is seeing.
Regarding your stalling/bogging issue - have you ever cleaned out the EGR valve? This is the number one cause of bogging, and after 20+ years, if it has never been cleaned, it will be clogged with carbon so that it's not working properly. The valve and intake and exhaust ports that you see when you remove the valve from the car, can be cleaned with carb cleaner. Advise if you are unfamiliar how to do this, for instructions.
Also, you may want to check your idle speed solenoid. Basically, it's function is to maintain idle when you put a load on the engine - you advise that with the headlights on, your car bogs. The ISC is meant to prevent this. As a test, with the car idling, turn on the headlights and the heater blower fan on high. What does the idle do?? The ISC is basically a solenoid with a little plunger inside that vibrates about 20x a second. If this gets clogged up, the plunger gets stuck, doesn't vibrate properly etc. This solenoid can also be carefully cleaned with carb cleaner. Instructions on how to do this on the forum, or ask.

But I would first do the compression test.....:)
 

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Question:
if I turn on turn signal or headlights it bogs down and shuts off.
Any idea?
This sounds like an electrical problem. I would start by ensuring that the vehicle is charging correctly and that you have around 13.5V on the battery with the engine running. If that checks out OK then check the earths to the ECU and the ground strap from the starter motor as well as the ground strap from the distributor to the firewall.

You should also check that the brake fluid is sufficient and that the switch in the master cylinder is working correctly as well as the switch on the back of the handbrake.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I feel as if its the alternator failing.....


I will be driving 65 mph and turn signal on and it will act as if its going to shut off but when I turn signal off it runs fine again...Brake applied does the same thing...


E brake is all the way down but if I move it up and push the switch down myself it goes off.

Check engine light is on before start and then goes right off...

All of these thing happened at once yesterday.....Gas guage stopped working, brakes applied casuses stall out, headlights on causes stall out and so does turn signals.
 

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Your first post seems to indicate that when you are driving and the car starts to bog down, you are able to come out of the bog by revving up the engine, no?? You should clarify whether this is the case or not.
Testing the alternator can be simply done by first confirming the battery voltage when the car is off (should be about 12.6v), then starting the car and testing battery voltage again (should be about 14v) to see if the alternator is charging.
You may also want to check the fusible link box that is next to the battery in the engine compartment - this fuse box is known for rust which might give you an issue.
 
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