Suzuki Forums banner

1 - 20 of 45 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
32 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
91 geo tracker would not start. Has spark has fuel but wouldn't start. Has a check engine light on. Tried jumping the connector the light would not flash any codes can any one help me.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
158 Posts
I would look for the nag switch. Not sure if they all have one but there's a good chance yours does. On mine it behind the dash panel under the steering column, reach around a few inches back or so. When you find this little slide switch, move it the other way. If check engine light is still on, move it back to the original way again. Hopefully that will turn out the constant light, and then allow you to flash codes.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
24,207 Posts
Does the car crank, or do nothing?? The check engine light is supposed to be on with the key on, and off once you are cranking (or running). Can you get a code 12 from the CEL? Here's how:
Check Engine Light
Your diagnostic connector will be just by the battery, dangling on 4 wires - a white little 'box' with a black locking top. You remove the locking top by depressing the tab, and then jump the black with blue/yellow wired pins with a metal paperclip. The CEL will flash out codes (code 12 means no major faults).
You can also keep the jumper in, and crank the car - does your code 12 change to a code 41 or 42?
Conversely, you may want to try to start the car with starter fluid sprayed into the intake. If your car will start this way, then your problem is with the fuel side of ignition.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
32 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Engine cranks and starts with a miss check engine light stays on. I jumped the connector no code the switch under the steering has a green wire cut should I connect that back? Sometimes it cranks and if I dont give it gas it will shut back off. When the switch is off after cranking the injector stays dripping. Also ia have arelY that clicks when the switch is on like a constant click.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
24,207 Posts
The green wire under the steering connects the check engine light on the dash to the 'nag' switch (service engine soon function which will go off at predetermined miles - and when this function is on, you cannot get codes). Either re-connect the wire to the switch, or bypass the switch altogether so the 'nag' function never works again. It's easier just to re-connect it (now that you know where the switch is, you will always find it to turn it off) you have to pull the dash to disconnect the 'nag' connector at the speedometer, I think.
Frankly, these cars are fairly old, and often have more than one issue. To be sensible, you probably should start with a compression test to check the timing of the engine, and the fuel pressure. And advise which relay clicks constantly - you have two under the dash - the green one is the fuel pump relay, and the black one is the main relay.
Get the nag switch off, as well, and then check to see if the ECU is giving you a code 12, or some other code.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,325 Posts
Engine cranks and starts with a miss check engine light stays on. I jumped the connector no code the switch under the steering has a green wire cut should I connect that back? Sometimes it cranks and if I dont give it gas it will shut back off. When the switch is off after cranking the injector stays dripping. Also ia have arelY that clicks when the switch is on like a constant click.
I don't understand; your title says no start, are you now saying that it will start, and has a miss? Without punctuation and spell check, it's hard to understand what you need.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
32 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Got the car to start yesterday. But only if I pump gas and keep my foot on the gas pedal. If I let go of the pedal it will shut down after a few seconds. I took the two relays and switched them they both do the same noise on the green connection. Haven't tried to connect back the green wire for the switch. Was working on two cars at the same time.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
467 Posts
replace the clicking relay under the dash. If the CEL stays on after a reset, the ECU is fried. Pull it and inspect the capacitors on it. 47,000 miles on a '91 is probably 147,000.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
32 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
I replaced it with another one from the wiring and it did the same thing. I here the same noise by two brown colored vacuum things close to the timing belt cover on the front of the engine. I need to get the jeep running to move to my next problem the transmission.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
24,207 Posts
Got the car to start yesterday. But only if I pump gas and keep my foot on the gas pedal. If I let go of the pedal it will shut down after a few seconds. I took the two relays and switched them they both do the same noise on the green connection. Haven't tried to connect back the green wire for the switch. Was working on two cars at the same time.
You need to give better information. Can you get a code 12 from the ECU? Have you determined if the 'nag' function is on? You must get the code 12 from the ECU before you go any further.
The green relay under the dash is the fuel pump relay. When you turn your key to the on position, do you hear the fuel pump priming for 3 seconds?
The black relay is the main relay, connected to the ECU.
Will the car start easily with test fuel sprayed into the intake?? If yes, then your problem is with fuel.
If no, you need to do a compression test to check the timing of the engine, to start. And get your CEL working properly.
Everything else is just guesswork and a waste of time until you determine the above.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
32 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
First off I can't get a code twelve because the CEL lights stays on constant. I don't know if the nag switch works cause the green wire that is running to it is cut.( should I reconnect and try it?). As for the fuel pump I can't really hear the pump because the noise from the relay is really loud. I put fuel in the intake and it takes a bit to start and shuts down after the gas runs out. If I get it to turn on and I keep my foot on the gas it stays on. And rpm is below 1000.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
32 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
Connected the nag switch and still nothing. I took out the fuse for the backing light for 15 sec and still the CEL is still on. The jeep is currently on and stayin on but the stream for the injector looks kinda crappy to me and it sounds like it has a miss any suggestions.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
24,207 Posts
When you connect the nag switch, you need to slide the switch to the other side of where it is now, to get the 'service engine soon' function to go off. You will not be able to see if there are codes in the computer if that function remains on. Have you tried sliding the switch? Removing the dome light fuse only resets the codes, and does not do anything to the nag function. If you can get the nag off, then drive the car, as whatever codes may have been in there, have now been erased.
Have you tried to see if start up is easier with test fuel? Have you confirmed the timing of the engine (a compression test will do this) or fuel pressure? Have you confirmed which relay is constantly clicking?
As we can't see the car, we can only judge by your information, answers to the questions asked and the result of your diagnostic testing.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
32 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
Switched the nag light and the light did not come off. Timing is good checked manually. How do you check the fuel pressure. The relay that is clicking only when the switch is on and not cranking is the fuel relay.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
24,207 Posts
If you cannot get the nag off, by switching it from one side to the other (and trying to repeat this just to make sure) then you will need to pull your computer to see if the capacitors have leaked or dried out. This is a known problem with the 1995's and earlier, and there is info on the forum about the 3 caps that need to be replaced - a $5 fix if you can solder. Everything else is meaningless until you get the CEL to work properly - when you turn the key to the on position, the ECU performs a self check (CEL is on) and when the car starts, if all is ok, CEL goes off. Worse comes to worse, you can pull your dash and disconnect the nag connector at the speedo to disable this.

What does checking timing 'manually' mean? There have been a number of people on the forum who have timed this car incorrectly, and thought it was ok. For checking the fuel pressure, you do this at the banjo connection at the fuel tank, and will need an adaptor. Perhaps before you go to this trouble, you might answer some questions. Like, is your fuel pump priming for 3 seconds? Does the car start easily with test fuel? Etc.
But the CEL is the big difficulty at the moment - and you need to get that working correctly (or check the computer) before you do anything else.
By the way, the computer is behind the left front speaker. Disconnect the negative battery terminal before fooling around with this, and make sure that you carefully depress the green and yellow locking tab connectors before disconnecting the computer. The connectors are basically irreplaceable.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
32 Posts
Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
Fuel pump is priming. I have a another computer from a hard top 2 dr sidekick will this work? I just changed to another injector and just changed out the distributor which had the connection broken off so it wasnt doing a good connection also jus changed the relay for the fuel pump and the wires for the plugs also. Now car doesn't want to start. So I'm currently looking for the timing diagram to see if all points are aligned and the rotor for the distributor is at number 4.

Pulled the taillight and the big connector has chewed wires and the ground is chewed could this b a prob.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
158 Posts
Yes that big connector behind the drivers side taillight also contains the power for the fuel pump (light pink thick wire on mine). The ground wire for the fuel pump I believe is the ground screw you see on the wheelwell if you have a 2 door, 4 door might be in a different spot. Definitely need to fix the connector (at the very least right now the fuel pump wire) and definitely the ground. That could be a lot of the problem and why it originally stumbled when it ran.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
32 Posts
Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
In my hands right now I have a full wire harness and ecu for a 2dr sidekick hardtop will it work for my tracker I checked most of the plugs and they all look the same. These parts came off of a running jeep someone took the trans and was trashing the rest.

Connected the ground and pink wire and still nothing. The motor sounds as if it is bubbling under water but still wouldn't start. It sounds like a wop wop wop wop.
 
1 - 20 of 45 Posts
Top