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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hello All,

New to this form, my girlfriend and I purchased a 1989 Suzuki Sidekick JX TBI 4x4 5spd a few months back and it ran like an absolute top until about 2 weeks ago. Before it went, as in the 2 days before, the engine idled a bit oddly and seem to feel like it shook a tad more. My girlfriend was then driving home and stopping by a store and called me to tell me she felt like the car had no power and had to hold the gas down to get anywhere and the revs where low.

She got home and then it would only sputter with the throttle all the way open after turning over for more than was needed (before it would start right up after being turned over maybe twice). Then it wouldnt start at all.

I brought it to the shop next door to our apartment and so begins my last 2 weeks of trying and waiting for parts hell.

Originally, I thought it was maybe the injector and as we had a spare on hand we swapped it but to no avail. Later it seemed that the IAC, which I read was not necessary, seemed to not work nor the TPS according to the mechanics. I did a resistance check and it seemed off, so I ordered a used TBI for 89/90 tracker off eBay and was told it would not fit. It had the TPS and IAC on it though so we moved it over, also to no avail.

Compression is good, we get spark, and there was no CEL before the car went. When the key is inserted all functions seem to be normal, that is dash lights up, blower works correctly ect.

Any advice guys? This is really starting to depress me as we barely got 3 months of use out of this awesome car.

The drive-shaft and seal where changed before we bought it as was the starter motor and supposedly the block and valves where rebuilt some 16k Mi ago.

Thanks For any help in advance,
-Dre

 

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Will it run on test (starting fluid spray) fuel? :huh:

If so, that will narrow down the search to fuel delivery issues or not.
A good place to start troubleshooting from the get-go, really.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Will it run on test (starting fluid spray) fuel? :huh:

If so, that will narrow down the search to fuel delivery issues or not.
A good place to start troubleshooting from the get-go, really.
Max,i didnt have starting fluid but used butane, same thing it sputtered a bit then died with full throttle open. We replaced the fuel injector, cleaned the gas tank out, and checked to make sure the fuel lines weren't clogged as well a the fuel pump was running well.

Also checked all fuses, the seem all good though always possible a broken wire somewhere but I dont think this is the culprit.

Anyway you could just copy and paste my original post?
 

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I removed the pic from the original post in hopes that will fix the visibility issue, as I believe there was something about it and the SPAM filter that didn't jive.

Edit: cleaned up the thread too.
 

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When you say compression is 'good', what exactly does that mean? What are the exact results of your compression test, cylinder by cylinder.
Also, the CEL is on with the key in the on position, yes?
I think you need to do some diagnostic testing, and stop ordering parts in the hopes that you'll hit the right one. As Max says, the first thing you need to do is see if the car will start on starter fluid (test fuel) sprayed into the intake or brake booster hose. If the car will start, and run for as long as you keep spraying, then you have confirmed that your problem is on the fuel side.
Considering the symptoms you had about bad bogging, I would also ask if you have ever cleaned out the EGR valve and ports, and if the EGR diaphram is stuck in the forward position. The EGR is the #1 cause of bogging.
Advise the results of your compression test, as well as if the car will start and run on test fuel.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I removed the pic from the original post in hopes that will fix this issue, as I believe there was something about it and the SPAM filter that didn't jive.
Thanks Max, odd the picture was flagged. Anyhow, The first compression test was something like:

Cylinder | PSI
1 | 137
2 | 135
3 | 138
4 | 138

Also, it wont start with starter fluid anymore, however when my girlfriend got home after complain about the power and before it totally died we could get it to sputter a little bit and with throttle wide open it would stay at 2-400 RPM for a short while before dying. CEL was not on when key was in on position.

The shop now is stating that compression has dropped to 60% of what it original was, i am not quite sure if they did it correctly though as they have been a bit uncomptent in a few ways since I brought it. Just brought it today back to my buddy's garage. Will have more time to work on it tomorrow.

Any other advice? And thanks for everything so far! Seems like a great community :)

I am an MR2 guy myself, just sold my 1991 MKII Turbo if anyone is familiar, they have a great owners community as well
 

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First, you would need to know if the compression was done on a warm or cold engine, and if they floored the gas pedal when cranking (which will raise the compression). On a warm engine, with the gas pedal floored, your car should pull about 170 psi on all cylinders. Stone cold should be at least 150 psi.
Have you ever had your timing belt replaced in this car?? There has been difficulty with some people removing the center crank bolt (mistakenly) when doing the belt, and then not torquing the bolt properly - the bolt needs to be torqued at 94 ft/lbs, and if you find that it is looser, you will need to check the crank keyway to see if it has sheared.

However, before you do that, you advise that your CEL is NOT on with the key on....Is the bulb good?? If it is, then the problem is with your ECU (computer). So, next question, have you ever replaced the 3 capacitors in your ECU?? We have all had to do this at one point or another - the caps cost about $5, and if you can solder, or know some computer geek to do this for you, it is a simple enough fix. If you confirm that your CEL bulb is good, but you cannot get the CEL to light with the key on, then pull the computer and open it (it's located behind the left front speaker), and look to see if you still have the 3 black capacitors with the X on top (or says Rubycon on the side), and whether you visually see any damage, leaking, etc. Replace them anyway, if the Rubycons are in there.
I would do that first, before I did anything else - without the CEL on with your key on, it indicates that your problem is with the computer.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
First, you would need to know if the compression was done on a warm or cold engine, and if they floored the gas pedal when cranking (which will raise the compression). On a warm engine, with the gas pedal floored, your car should pull about 170 psi on all cylinders. Stone cold should be at least 150 psi.
Have you ever had your timing belt replaced in this car?? There has been difficulty with some people removing the center crank bolt (mistakenly) when doing the belt, and then not torquing the bolt properly - the bolt needs to be torqued at 94 ft/lbs, and if you find that it is looser, you will need to check the crank keyway to see if it has sheared.

However, before you do that, you advise that your CEL is NOT on with the key on....Is the bulb good?? If it is, then the problem is with your ECU (computer). So, next question, have you ever replaced the 3 capacitors in your ECU?? We have all had to do this at one point or another - the caps cost about $5, and if you can solder, or know some computer geek to do this for you, it is a simple enough fix. If you confirm that your CEL bulb is good, but you cannot get the CEL to light with the key on, then pull the computer and open it (it's located behind the left front speaker), and look to see if you still have the 3 black capacitors with the X on top (or says Rubycon on the side), and whether you visually see any damage, leaking, etc. Replace them anyway, if the Rubycons are in there.
I would do that first, before I did anything else - without the CEL on with your key on, it indicates that your problem is with the computer.

Compression test was done on cold engine, cant warm it up at the moment haha. Timing belt was replaced 16kmi ago, but I have only had the car a few months (Actually my GFs care really). All previous work was done by a mechanic.

I will remove the dash and check the bulb and go from there in that regards, I am the Head of Operations for a DataCenter and been a life-long computer geek so no worries I can solder. I will check the capacitors, if they gotta be replaced ill do it. Do you happen to know how many farads they are?

Thanks!
 

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Working on it.

ALL of his posts are being caught by the Spam program. When that happens, a Mod has to then evaluate the post and approve it if legit.

Not sure why only the OP has issues and not the responders. Something odd about his submissions. We're playing with IP address changes now.
 

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Well, your new IP didn't trigger the Spam filter! :)
 

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Have you had the mechanic check to make sure the timing belt has not jumped a cog or the bottom gear on the crank has not come loose? It gives indications of the timing being off. The 89/90's are different from others and in my experience almost bullet proof. There is a problem with most Suzuki's of the bottom gear/cog coming loose and ruining keyway. There is a fix on the forum.
 

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It does act like the crank bolt loosened or the loctite fix has come unglued. But yea I would be checking the timing.
 
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