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88 Suzuki samurai engine swap 1.0 to 1.3

10K views 38 replies 5 participants last post by  2013GV 
#1 ·
So I have an 88 Suzuki samurai. It’s a 1.0 engine and I blew a hole in the block. I found a 1.3. that was running. will my current pcm (main computer) on the 1.0 work with the 1.3? Should the 1.3 just bolt in? What else will I need for this swap.
I have an intake manifold, Exhaust manifold fly wheel, starter, alternator carburetor from the 1.3.

Thank you

Sybil
 
#2 ·
It might be an idea to provide a little more details, especially about where you are and what you're driving - I'm not aware that the Samurai was ever shipped with a 1.0 engine, and similarly, I'm not aware of any 88 SJ410 (which might be considered a Samurai) that had a PCM.

You mention that you have, among other parts, a carburetor from the 1.3, generally speaking carburetted vehicles don't have a PCM, although the US market 1.3 Samurais did have an "electronic feed back" carburetor that did have a very primitive PCM.
 
#5 ·
Syb,

Let me explain how this works - you're the one asking for help - until & unless the folks on this side of the internet understand what it is you need help with, the responses you get may be misleading, confusing or just down right incorrect.

That's the reason I'm asking for the details - and I don't need to see a video about an SJ410 in snow - it doesn't tell me what you have, and it does not prove that there were 1.0 Samurais.

As far as I'm aware ALL the SJ410s regardless of whether they were badged as a Jimny/Samurai/Santana/Caribbean/Sierra/Drover, came with a conventional carburettor with no PCM.
 
#6 · (Edited)
Could you let me know what more you need? This way I can go out and look and give you the correct information. Would you like the vin? I'm in California
It was actually manufactured 09/1987: 88 Samari with a 1.0 engine 4X4 5 speed. It only says Suzuki Samurai. I want to convert to the 1.3 engine from the 1.0 and I'm wondering what else is needed for the conversion/swap. The 1.3 engine is used and was running, I have the intake, and exhaust manifolds, carburetor, alternator, and flywheel from the 1.3. Should it just bolt in or will I need anything else for the conversion from a 1.0 to a 1.3.

Thank you again and hopefully, I'm a bit more clear
 
#8 ·
The VIN would probably be the best place to start - an 87/88 Samurai anywhere in the US, assuming an official import would/should be an SJ413 - which would have had a 1.3 engine, with a Hitachi electronic feedback carb.
 
#12 ·
So the question now is - is what you have in there actually a one liter engine, and if it is, how did it get there & what was done to put it in that needs to be "un-done".

The engine number should be on the block near the bell housing, left or driver's side I think - what are the characters before the dash?
 
#13 · (Edited)
Okay, this was my dad's and he is a mechanic who consistently tells me it’s a 1.0 but he could wrong and that’s why I’m trying to figure all this out

Plus Ford, where I had the engine, shipped asked me about pcm. So then I was confused and did not know if it had one

the casting in the engine shows G13A...... Does this mean its a 1.3?
 
#21 ·
That's not the number I was asking about, but at this point it doesn't matter - what you have is an SJ413 with a 1.3 liter G13a - assuming the engine you bought is a Suzuki G13a or G13ba - it should be a bolt in swap.
 
#28 ·
Could you guys help me again? Dad and I have installed the used motor. All started fine but had water in the oil. We took the head off and had it checked along with a valve job. Put it back together and now no spark.
The distributor rotor is turning, we have power to the coil, checked fuses, and still no spark.

What are your thoughts?
 
#29 ·
Check for spark at the coil - if you're not getting a spark there you most likely have an electrical issue, if you have a spark there but not at the plugs, the distributor is probably installed incorrectly.
 
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#32 ·
I'd be rechecking the wiring around the distributor/coil area - you have two distributors, both of which were known to be working prior to the engine swap & head removal, it's unlikely (but not impossible) for both to have failed.

Acks FAQ (google it if you need to) has the manuals & diagrams - try disconnecting the coil negative and then, very carefully, shorting it to ground, every time you break that ground connection, you should get a spark at the coil tower.
 
#33 ·
Still at it trying to get a spark. We finally found a distributor out of Oregon and purchased a new coil. Still no spark. We have power to the distributor and the coil but no spark out from the coil. We checked new and old distributors, and coils and all seems fine. 12v on the positive side of the distributer and 9 volts on the negative side. Brown wire from the coil to the distributor in 9v. Fuses are all good
What else should we try?
 
#34 ·
9V on the negative side? where are you measuring?
 
#35 ·
9V would lead me to look for a break or high resistance on the ground side.. and of course with no ground, the capacitor/coil wont charge, and therefore no sparks..
 
#36 ·
I'm thinking the same, bad ground or a ground wire not connected after the work was done, but as we all know, it all depends on where you're measuring things.
 
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