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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My Samurai rear fenders, above the wheel wells on both sides are rusting through. The bed is rusted around the edges. I have several ideas but would like to get opinions. Should I try to buy replacement body parts and replace? (rather expensive and I'm just trying to make it solid, not restored). Or cut out the rust and form sheet metal on the external parts. Buy trailer fenders and weld into the bed. As well as find a sheet metal piece to weld into the bed. How much of the existing rusty area should I remove? How do I treat the remaining metal for stopping rusting again? Or where would be a good U.S. source for body parts? I can (and should) include some pictures; which I can do tomorrow. I had thought of using smooth roofing flashing for my replacement metal, RTV the edges, rivet, prime and paint (black). Your ideas will be very helpful, thanks! BTW the front end seems to be fairly rust free.
 

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Just grab some 20g sheet metal, a set of shears, a mig welder, and have at it...
 

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I would cut well past the rusted edges to good metal, and as Philip says, fabricate and weld in sheet metal. 20 G fir panels, id personally use 18 for the bed for a bit more strength
I use this on the metal, its fantastic, and can be painted over, if it stays green theres no rust, if it goes black, the rusts gone. I use it on my milling machine bed, lasts about 12 months before it wears off and exposes the bare untreated metal again.
No doubt you will find a similar,product locally, tip some into a tin, never return to the main bottle as it will deactivate the rest if the contents, and it washes up in water.

 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Good advice, thanks. I just wanted to make sure this was the best route to take. I have to gather materials but I plan to get started soon. I will update on how it goes...
 

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Good advice, thanks. I just wanted to make sure this was the best route to take. I have to gather materials but I plan to get started soon. I will update on how it goes...
If you really want to spend money by all means buy repair sections but I find they invariably never fit quite right and making your own gives you a good sense of fulfilment at the end. Good luck, and keep us posted on progress.
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I have sheet metal from an old Ford Falcon station wagon roof for my rear panels, which I have cut out. I ordered both rear wheel wells and inside cargo compartment panels, tailgate panel and door panels. I also got a heavy plate (1/4") for the bed. When all the parts get in I will start. and keep posted with pictures.
 

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1/4" for the bed? You not planning on doing much more than 30 mph then? Damn thas going to be heavy, I use a piece of 3/8" plate in the rear of the ute for traction on the strip, 1/4" round town and I have 440 hp, and still notice it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
1/4" for the bed? You not planning on doing much more than 30 mph then? Damn thas going to be heavy, I use a piece of 3/8" plate in the rear of the ute for traction on the strip, 1/4" round town and I have 440 hp, and still notice it.
Having a teenager riding with me currently does not slow me down to 30 mph. Cut out for the wheel wells, the bed is not that big. I have no rear seat. The thin rusty bed has been removed and I am getting some 20 ga. sheet metal for my side panels Monday. Got to replace some of the c channel running across the frame. It will still be a couple of weeks before I can really get going on it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
My friend who is knowledgeable on body work has gone on vacation for a week. I'm getting parts together and will work on it next week. I have learned some things I did not know, such as putting an offset lip on on the sheet metal to cleanly match up the old metal with the new. Also punching holes in the sheet metal to tack weld through. Using a spot weld drill to remove spot welded metal. More specialized techniques that I did not know about. I think while all this goes on I will use bed liner instead of carpet and am going to the pick and pull to find some newer seats.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Tire Wheel Car Vehicle Automotive tire

Driver side sheet metal so far. A lot of measuring and trimming. Bed and passenger getting cut out next. Then the seam sealer and sanding. Also repaired holes in passenger floor board and the forward section ahead of the rear wheel wells.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Well I have finished my Samurai sheet metal rust problems. I didn't know what to do or where to begin so I asked here. Unfortunately I had to keep looking for some help. I found I needed a pneumatic flange tool and punch. This was probably the most obvious things I needed that was unknown before I dug deeper. I removed the ratty bed and fender wells and one cross member under the bed. Used cheap, thin paneling for the bed template before cutting out my 1/4 plate steel. My fender wells are trailer fender wells from tractor supply that were 'almost' the same size. While at it I had my seats reupholster and sprayed bed liner in the cab. It is sealed up and no rust now. I am very happy with the results.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I like the seats, good job, its now built like a tank..
I like the seats, good job, its now built like a tank..
Thanks I appreciate that! BTW in an earlier post I said I had some old Ford Falcon sheet metal. Turns out it was like 18ga. so I couldn't use it. I found this 20 ga. at a metal supply shop. I also found out the true value of a gas wire feed welder vs. my flux core welder, a lot less hassle. Then the bondo sealer and sanding, trying to get to the painting before temps here got to cool. I paint again if I get a warm day or wait till spring. I also replaced rear shocks too. Also besides making a flange on the sheet metal, I learned about making a pattern using poster board. Little things I did not think of or know but do now!
 

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Well done, Yes I have found a flange tool and air sheer made my body work much easier.. have rebuilt many..
 
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