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Discussion Starter #1
Started with a hitachi carb that came with vehicle. Samurai actually started with some coaxing, however after a few minutes the Suzuki would stall and flood. The last time we started it with the original carb it ran for 5 minutes but then I told the guy with me to kill the engine because gas was puking from the charcoal canister. We had other issues, it looked like some jets were clogged so we dismissed it and got the carburetor to a rebuilder.

Upon seeing the carb, the rebuilder decided that we should get a different carb as our original one was beyond repair. Got him another used hitachi and he rebuilt it. Put the carb in today double/triple checked all the hoses, made sure the return lines from the gas tank etc were clear. Samurai doesn't start and pukes from the canister again...

Is it possible one of the electrical lines to the carb is not working correctly? I realize it could have been put together improperly, but two carbs with that same unique issue makes me feel like it's not the carb. Too much pressure from fuel pump? That's also brand new.

Thanks in advance for your help. Can provide picture and video if need be.


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Discussion Starter #2
Followed the guide below to check on the carb float or if anything was stuck. Looked good, on the off chance that it was stuck I adjusted it to factory spec (extremely close to 8mm, was at 10mm), put it back in, did the same exact thing. Can't see anything in the window, but it has to be flooding to get to the canister. Going to adjust the float tonight to some higher number to see if anything changes.

Cleaning the Sammy Carb
 

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After many efforts I have it figured out. Hopefully this helps some noob farther down the road from my struggles.

I took the carb top off quite a few times to adjust the float. A few nights ago I changed the float to 17mm, and it starved out. I figured since the 10mm measurement it had originally and 8mm measurement on my original carb caused a major flooding issue I would split the difference (I was finally getting there!). Changed it to 13mm, and flooded badly again, really depressed I went back and did some deep reflection as to why I buy such things.

I took a spare hose and blew into the hose and it was open despite it being flooded. The float was stuck or I had a major vacuum leak because of escaping air out the seal of the top of the carb/bowl. The top of the carb has to be put on just right apparently to work correctly. I needed to lineup the top of the carb and anchor it down (almost slide it) and lineup the hole on the rear passenger side and screw in the screw that also anchors the throttle cable. The time I adjusted to 17mm I had done that correctly and felt it slide into place more securely than before, and then starved it (which meant it wasn't stuck open).

I adjusted it back to close to 9mm and it runs perfect now! Maybe someone else will have a better explanation as to what was going on, but I'm glad it's running now I can move on to finishing the lift and bodywork.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Mine was a stuck float which allowed the bowl to overfill and it backed up into the canister. I didn't follow the KISS protocol, but it was a refurbished carb, so I trusted it.
 
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