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Discussion Starter #1
i have problem with 4wd in my sammi i lock it in 4low or high and trie to climb a hill or just got forward period and the sammi will die and is hard to start back any ideas on what it might be does the carb need adj or is the fuel pump bad? thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #3
yea it runs fine after putting it back in 2wd just have to get it started back after it dies from being in 4wd
 

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I would have thought if it's an engine issue it would produce the same fault in both 2 and 4WD....does it move at all in 4WD?

If not I'd be inclined to think there's an issue in the mechanics of the 4WD system...you could test the transfer box by dropping off the front prop shaft (so we know no other part of the system is doing anything) and selecting 4WD, if it drives then we know the transfer box is OK and that we'll need to look at the front axle/diff for a fault.

Sorry I don't have an easy answer :(
 

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Discussion Starter #5
when 4wd is in it will go but if you put it in a strain like climbing a hill of go on rough terrain it will lose all power and eventually die out its like it loses fuel or floods itself out and takes a few min to start back....thanks
 

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few more questions

Hi,

Have you tried the same hill in 2WD?

A few other questions....

What carb do you have on it?
Does it smoke or smell of petrol at idle?
What colour are the spark plugs? - A photo of that would be handy
 

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it sounds like your front end is bound up. As was mentioned It could be anything from the Transfer case to the wheel hubs. You need to start doing a diagnostic. Start by running it in 4WD with the hubs unlocked (make sure the wheels spin freely with the hubs unlocked) If it doesn't stall, then it's not the Transfer case. If it's not the transfer case you probably need to pull the front axel apart. The differential is the easiest place to start.
 

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Baratacus, welcome!

If the free wheeling hub's are in 'free' the 4WD system will drive both the transfer box and the diff/front axle, even though the wheels will be free to rotate. We won't have eliminated the transfer box or the diff, UJ's etc with this test, because there both still doing something?

Hence I suggested dropping the prop and only testing the transfer box (all other parts remain as they were).

It occurs to me as I write that, that if his free wheeling hubs are in 'lock' the only part of the system changing, as the fault is observed, is the transfer box, hence this is the most likely cause at this point.

No offence! Just wanting to get to the answer and learn something along the way.

Gotta pop out now for the evening (UK time), I'll check back later and see if you've both had some luck solving this one.

Take it easy.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
i just tried to go up the same hill in 2wd and it does the same thing as if it was in 4wd bogs down and dies and is hard to start back i have a weber carb on it and i smell exuast fumes because th emuffler is cut off right under the drivers seat but i can also smell pure gas....
 

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Well, that eliminates the drive train as an issue!
Progress!!!

Ok, now back to the carb...the smell of fuel would indicate an over rich mixture. We can confirm that with co meter or colour tune, but the easiest and cheapest way is too look at the spark plug colour.

Dark black spark plugs are conformation of over rich mixture...have a look.
 

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Check out this link and see if it makes any sense since you have a Weber carb. Even though this article is about a Weber flooding at extreme angles, it still may give you some ideas about checking your float levels.
 

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Thanks Despr, my brain wasn't thinking so well. Your right, Running 4wd with the hubs unlocked would only eliminate the hubs or front Birfield joints.. Dropping the front drive shaft would be the only way to eliminate the T-case by itself.

As for the smell of pure gas, that could also be from running too lean. If the mix is too lean the cylinder won't fire and the fuel will be dumped un burnt into the exhaust.

Do you have the O2 sensor still plumbed in the exhaust? The weber doesn't use it, but you can wire an air/fuel mixture gauge to it so you can see what your exhaust is doing. It would help you get the carb dialed in correctly with the right jets and the proper mixture adjustments.

How long has it been doing this? Have you made any changes to the intake or ignition before this started happening? When was your last tune up? (plugs, wires, cap, rotor)
 

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Discussion Starter #13
ok i checked the plugs which i changed not long ago and they have a dark black color to them and also i talked to mechanic today and he said i might have a flot problrm in the carb too...he said it might need adj. any thoughts about that...thanks
 

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I'm no expert on Webber carbs....but I think I'd want to be certain the mixture was set correctly before diving into pulling the carb apart to change something that very rarely needs adjusting....would be worth changing the air cleaner (if you haven't already) before getting the mixture adjusted, a dirty one will restrict airflow and ruin the settings.

I had a Webber on an old car I had, where the seal on the mixture screw had perished and it allowed neat fuel to poor into the carb continuously, also worth checking.

I'd also want to check all the fuel lines to be sure there are no leaks...

Might also be worth checking the timing as well..all relatively easy checks/adjustments you can do before pulling things apart.
 

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if the plugs are black then it's definitely not too lean. If the float level adjustment was fine before, it should be fine now. Your float could be sticking though from deposites or debris in your carb. How old is the carb? is it due for an overhaul?
 

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Oh, I nearly forgot, change the fuel filter as well, if you have not already, I have known them partially block....causing issues on full/heavy throttle.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
the carb is almost new i bought the sammi off a guy and he had all the receipts for the carb...the first thing i done is changed the fuel filter when the problem started didnt help....also for the fuel mixture how do i test it out to if it could be the problem? thanks again
 

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You'd need an air/fuel mixture gauge. Checking the plugs told you that it was running too rich, but if you want to see how bad it is and at what rpm range it has the bigest issues, you'll need to use a gauge.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
hey guys i got the problem fixed...after goin to the application that haptown left on here for me i turned the weber around and now it goes very nice no more floddin out on a hill side thanks to you guys
 

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Glad to help. Have you tried a fast stop or going down a steep bank slowly yet? If your float levels aren't correct you still might have the flooding problem in these situations.
 
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