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Discussion Starter #1
I have an '87 Samurai 4WD. It has a 1.3l/5spd. The problem I am having is that it won't go into any gear while the engine is running(well, I CAN jam it into reverse). With the engine stopped, I can freely move the shifter into any gear. I can put it in gear with the engine off, start it, then release the clutch pedal and it will move. The clutch is fairly new(about 6 mos. old), the cable is free and not binding. The shift lever has quite a bit of play, but it's been like that for awhile now. If the synchros were bad, I think it would at least grind against the gear when I try to put it in gear. I pulled the shift lever out, but didn't see anything obviously wrong. Any ideas? Thanks!
 

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Two things to look at.
1 -Is the bushing still there?
The bushing (or 'shifter sheet') should be there to keep the ball floating in the center. If it is gone, or there is only chunks left then it needs to be replaced.



2 -Is the alignment bolt still there?
There should be a bolt coming into the tower at the 6:00 position that extends into the long cut on the shifter ball. This keeps the ball in the right position when you apply pressure. Without it, the shifter will be all over the place. It could be broken off. The bolt headwould still be there but the endthat extends into the ball could be broken off.

 

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Yeah,the alignment bolt on mine KEEPS shearing off!I have went thru 3 now?Im not that rough on it so not sure whats going on?I just hope that one day while im doing the replacment the broken part doesnt fall in to my tranny!!Ive been lucky so far.Solmoshun,if you look and Bill is right dont let the broken part fall down into your transmisson or you'll have other problems!!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Okay, I checked the sheet plate and the bolt. The bolt is fine, the sheet plate is all there, though a bit worn. With the engine stopped it will shift into any gear. When the engine is running, it won't go into any gear regardless of whether or not the clutch pedal is pressed. Normally, if one tried to put it into gear with the engine running and the clutch pedal released it would grind against the gear...this seems as if it doesn't even push the gears together. Again, if the engine is stopped, I can put it into gear, then start the engine and when i let the clutch pedal up it will move the vehicle. Any other ideas? Thanks!
 

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With the clutch and shifter verified, then that leaves the guts of the tranny. I would have thought you would hear a grinding sound (like you were looking for) when trying to jam it into gear if the synchros were shot. But since the tranny is so easy to work on, I would pull it out and strip it down. You may find something else broken inside.

One last thing to verify before you drop it though. With the shifter removed, are the shifting rods lined up in the center of the tower? If not you may have the tip going into a void when you put it back together. And with the motor off, can you shift through the whole pattern?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I just looked and the shift rods are lined up. I can go through the whole shift pattern with the engine stopped. If I put it in any gear with the engine stopped, then start the engine and release the clutch pedal, it will move the vehicle(forward or reverse).
 

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Ok. Then it's time to strip it downand check the parts.

As i said though, this tranny isn't really thatcomplicated once you look at the parts involved. If you want a preview (or even something to go by as you dive in) check out this article on rebuilding it.

Tranny rebuild
 

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I'm wondering if you don't have either a clutch disc dragging, or, a pilot bearing that is dragging. Something is keeping the input shaft and counter shaft rotating when you depress the clutch. Try adjusting the clutch pedal free travel to as little as possible and see if that helps. That will allow the pressure plate to lift off the clutch disc a little farther. If, it's a pilot bearing that's screwed up, they sometimes squeal when the transmission is in gear, clutch in and you're not moving.

Another thing I would try is to put your transfer case in neutral and try shifting the tranny into gear. If, it is the clutch not releasing, the tranny synchros should bring the main shaft up to speed and let it drop into gear.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks Billjohn. I guess I know what I'll be doing next weekend. Maybe I'll look around for a used tranny to use as a rebuilder if I can find one cheap enough. I see the kits online for a little over $100 with the bearings and synchros. The link you sent looks useful and I have the transmision manual. Again, thanks for your replies. I'll let you know how it works out.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Azelgin, thanks for the idea. Here's the problem though, even if the clutch was dragging and allowing the input shaft to continue to turn, then I think it would at least grind when I tried to put in gear(with the engine running). This acts like it doesn't even try to mesh the gears. With engine stopped, it slips right into any gear.
 

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If your syncros are still good, it will act that way. They won't let you pull it into gear. The only time it would grind is if your syncros are worn out. not sure if reverse has any syncros. If it doesn't, it will grind going into reverse besause the input shaft is still turning when the clutch is in.
 

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Ok, I just went outside and tried shifting my 86 into gear, clutch out, engine running. Couldn't do it and no grinding, except reverse. Put the transfer case in nuetral and I can go through all the gears with the clutch out, except reverse, which grinds.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Ok. With the transfer case in neutral, I can shift into some gears (1, 2 and reverse). With the transfer case in any other position than neutral, I cannot shift into any gear. I tried adjusting the clutch cable tighter (much tighter than it should be; there is no free-play) and was still unable to shift into any gears while the transfer case was in any running positions. Does this indicate a possible problem with the transfer case, or is this possibly a problem with the transmission?
 

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Does this indicate a possible problem with the transfer case, or is this possibly a problem with the transmission?
I don't think there is anything wrong with your transfer case. Since you can shift the tranmission into some gears when the transfer case is in nuetral, and all gears when the motor isn't running, I still think it's clutch/pilot bearing related. The input shft on the tranmission is still receiving power. If, your clutch is disengaging the tranmission input shaft as it should, your tranmission would behave as if the engine were not running. In other words; when the clutch is pushed in, it's the same as if you shut the engine off. I just read about a case where a guy had a tractor where the clutch would statr dragging when it was fairly new. Long story short, seems the aftermarket disc and pressure plate were not the same as OEM. When the disc wore to a certain thickness, the hub on the disc interfered with the action of the pressure plate release, not allowing it to open quite far enough to release the disc. The metal plates of the disc that the friction material were rivited are wave shaped and expand somewhat when pressure is removed. They were expanding enough to keep in contact with the flywheel and pressure plate. Not saying that's what's happening in your case, but, your symtoms were the same as his: clutch not releasing.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Azelgin, what you're saying makes sense. I may have been too hasty in dismissing the clutch due to it being fairly new. I'm going to pull the tranny this weekend and check the clutch. I appreciate your advice. Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Replaced clutch, now everything works as it should. Thanks for the replies. I think it would be a good idea to replace the 'shifter sheet', where would be the best place to get one?
 

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Any of the actual zook venders (Petroworks, Trail Tough, Low Range Offroad, Hawk, Rocky Road Outfitters, Roadless Gear, Zuks Offroad) wil have the poly units. Zuks Offroad also has a brass replacement that will last longer than the trans itself.
 

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I had the same problem with my Sami when I first bought it. You say the clutch peddle has play in it. The clutch is not disenguaging all the way. Crawl under there and tighten up the clutch cable adjustment on the adjustment lever on the transmission. Try about 2 turns at a time. I fixed mine this way. Not saying this is the problem but it is easier than pulling the trans. Still may have to do that....but try this first. Good luck.






GIZMO
 

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Did you change the gearbox oil around the same time as the clutch?

If the viscosity of the oil is too high the synchros will have trouble cutting through the lubricant to get a grip on the gear and start it spinning, which is why you cant get it in to gear because the synchro wont let you, also why there is no grinding.
Maybe the shift bolt keeps breaking because it is being forced too hard to make it shift?

Try a lower viscosity (thinner) oil maybe around 80W90 (thats what I use)
Some Isuzu trucks recommend 15W40 engine oil in their gearboxes. (15w40 is only a little thinner than 80w90, they have different numbers as to not confuse gear oils with engine oils) http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/visc.html

I tried 75W90 synthetic once but that was too thin and I got a little grind every gear change.
 

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Clutch pedal or pedal Shaft or Bracket or Cable

The Problem is:
the Clutch pedal or pedal Shaft or Bracket or Cable.
Which is causing the Clutch to Not disengage.

Experience.
 
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