Everthing was working fine through several trips to town for wife to shop. At last store we're nearly done and turn the key - nothing! All lights are on with no dimming or clicking noises. Battery checks fine, terminals are clean and tight. Tried both Park and Neutral. Had to have it towed home. P0335 code appears alongside a previous P0327 that has been there for awhile. Neither of them will erase. Starter fuse looks fine. Going to check the starter relay next. It's the 4 cylinder model. Any suggestions for what I can do before getting it towed to a shop in town? Thanks!
Short small starter terminal to main lead from battery ( making sure if course it's in neutral with wheels blocked) that will engage starter, proving whether its the starter thats died, or whether its a wiring issue further back
P0345 is a crank position sensor code, wont stop it cranking.
If I could lift the truck and try to see/find the starter I certainly would try that. I don't have a lift and we are below zero fahrenheit here, with lots of snow. So what I hope to try is jumper the switched terminals in the relay socket. Can those terminals on the starter/solenoid be seen and reached from below? Anyone have pictures?
S this morning I swapped the starter relay with a headlight relay. Made no difference at all, still no crank and headlights still work. These relays to not have a circuit diagram on the housing, nor are the terminals marked/numbered. Can anyone tell me which 2 terminals are the ones that supply power and which 2 are the ones that energize the internal coil?
Extremely compact with a footprint of only 22 x 15mm, but maintaining high contact currents for automotive applications. Ideal for air horns, fog lamp...
Extremely compact with a footprint of only 22 x 15mm, but maintaining high contact currents for automotive applications. Ideal for air horns, fog lamp...
Thank you so much! That is exactly the info I was seeking. I think you are right about it being the starter. From what I unbderstand if I jumper between the sockets for the 2 silver ones that should activate the starter if it's any good.
If that doesn't activate the starter I guess it's time to get it towed to a shop with a hoist.
No, jumper the switch contacts, the big heavy copper coloured ones, you are stimulating turning the key, which pulls the relay in, you need to jump terminals 30 and 87 in the link i sent you. Look at the numbers on the relay body.
Jumpering the silver terminals on your one at best does nothing, at worst that takes out the ign fuse possibly more.
Be warned, it will spark, and obviously pull the jumper out pretty quickly if the starter turns.
If it does turn, then you're fault finding on the coil side, confirm there's actually power getting yo the terminals from the ignition switch when its in the start position. Very rare for that side to fail
My XL7 doesn't start on first try sometimes. Even before I moved back to the cold weather of Chicago, every now and then my XL7 won't start at first try. I get lights on the dash to come on, but not even a crank or click, so I turn the ignition back and try a second time then it works. This...
My 99 GV has developed an occasional/random ignition blackout. Turn the key and nothing...like you've got a completely zapped/dead battery. Cycle the key back to ACC and the juice for all the accessories is there, cycle the key back and forth and it will start okay...most of the time. This is a...
So if I jumper 85 and 86 and the starter doesn't run then it's the starter that's at fault (or the wiring to the solenoid or the solenoid itself)? Does the ignition need to be on or off when I do this?
Good thing I'm asking all these questions and getting answers from a couple of people who know more than I do. So to describe my next steps as I understand them - 1) pull the starter relay out. 2) connect jumper to the sockets for 87 and 30 which should activate the starter (done with ign switch on or off ???) 3) if no action, replace the starter. Truly appreciate all the advice!
Bob
Well that is not entirely correct, shorting the 87/30 terminals will apply power to the starter solenoid, the solenoid should engage and spin the starter.. if it engages the solenoid (click) but does not spin the starter, either the starter is bad, or the main power to the starter is compromised... What it does do (if clicks) is to confirm the control side is working..
If the solenoid does not activate there is a lose of power, wiring issue, or the solenoid is faulty..
So my friend, diagnostics is not so simple, you are still left with questions/choices..
What it does do (if clicks) is to confirm the control side is working..
So my friend, diagnostics is not so simple, you are still left with questions/choices..
I'm waiting for his next post stating he freaked out when he got a big spark off the jumper wire and no noise from the starter because the solenoid is jammed
Yes I know I may sound pretty stupid to you but it's not really neccessary or helpful to become insulting. Yes I know what a solenoid does, and how it sounds. And yes I expect to see a spark and would come to the same conclusion about the wiring to the soenoid and + lead to the starter. I find it helpful to get feedback. If it becomes too much of a bother for you then you know what to do. BTW I've just been messing with cars for 63 years so far but don't know it all yet. aquanaut20 I'm in Onatrio.
Not being insulting, but I've seen people do the same thing and forget about the current a starter solenoid can draw and utter some strange foreign words about the size of the spark
Thanks vety much for the tip. It will be towed on a flatbed. Does anyone know what the flat rate book says for a starter install on one of these?
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