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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Everthing was working fine through several trips to town for wife to shop. At last store we're nearly done and turn the key - nothing! All lights are on with no dimming or clicking noises. Battery checks fine, terminals are clean and tight. Tried both Park and Neutral. Had to have it towed home. P0335 code appears alongside a previous P0327 that has been there for awhile. Neither of them will erase. Starter fuse looks fine. Going to check the starter relay next. It's the 4 cylinder model. Any suggestions for what I can do before getting it towed to a shop in town? Thanks!
 

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Short small starter terminal to main lead from battery ( making sure if course it's in neutral with wheels blocked) that will engage starter, proving whether its the starter thats died, or whether its a wiring issue further back

P0345 is a crank position sensor code, wont stop it cranking.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
If I could lift the truck and try to see/find the starter I certainly would try that. I don't have a lift and we are below zero fahrenheit here, with lots of snow. So what I hope to try is jumper the switched terminals in the relay socket. Can those terminals on the starter/solenoid be seen and reached from below? Anyone have pictures?
 

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If you can see the terminals the starter its easy to do. Got any ramps or a gutter on the side of the road you could push it over?

Yes, you can get to them from under the car.
 

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Mine's 2.4L 4 cylinder. It's midwinter here very cold w/lots of snow & ice. No indoor space to work on it.
Bugger.....I feel your pain.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
S this morning I swapped the starter relay with a headlight relay. Made no difference at all, still no crank and headlights still work. These relays to not have a circuit diagram on the housing, nor are the terminals marked/numbered. Can anyone tell me which 2 terminals are the ones that supply power and which 2 are the ones that energize the internal coil?
Brown Rectangle Beige Passive circuit component Metal
 

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In the pic above, 2 silver ones are coil ( measure it with a multimeter) big copper ones are power switch contacts,


I still think you posdibly have a dead starter

You might have to get cold and wet.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thank you so much! That is exactly the info I was seeking. I think you are right about it being the starter. From what I unbderstand if I jumper between the sockets for the 2 silver ones that should activate the starter if it's any good.
Wood Musical instrument Wind instrument Metal Natural material

If that doesn't activate the starter I guess it's time to get it towed to a shop with a hoist.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
In the pic above, 2 silver ones are coil ( measure it with a multimeter) big copper ones are power switch contacts,


I still think you posdibly have a dead starter

You might have to get cold and wet.
Thanks also for the link. That is an amazing price for the relay. I wonder if they would mail to Canada?
 

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No, jumper the switch contacts, the big heavy copper coloured ones, you are stimulating turning the key, which pulls the relay in, you need to jump terminals 30 and 87 in the link i sent you. Look at the numbers on the relay body.

Jumpering the silver terminals on your one at best does nothing, at worst that takes out the ign fuse possibly more.

Be warned, it will spark, and obviously pull the jumper out pretty quickly if the starter turns.

If it does turn, then you're fault finding on the coil side, confirm there's actually power getting yo the terminals from the ignition switch when its in the start position. Very rare for that side to fail
 

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FAQ's... ;)


 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I think I have this right -

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So if I jumper 85 and 86 and the starter doesn't run then it's the starter that's at fault (or the wiring to the solenoid or the solenoid itself)? Does the ignition need to be on or off when I do this?
 

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85/86 are the control wires, 87/30 are the feed to the starter...

shorting 85/86 will blow the fuse...
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Good thing I'm asking all these questions and getting answers from a couple of people who know more than I do. So to describe my next steps as I understand them - 1) pull the starter relay out. 2) connect jumper to the sockets for 87 and 30 which should activate the starter (done with ign switch on or off ???) 3) if no action, replace the starter. Truly appreciate all the advice!
Bob
 

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Well that is not entirely correct, shorting the 87/30 terminals will apply power to the starter solenoid, the solenoid should engage and spin the starter.. if it engages the solenoid (click) but does not spin the starter, either the starter is bad, or the main power to the starter is compromised... What it does do (if clicks) is to confirm the control side is working..
If the solenoid does not activate there is a lose of power, wiring issue, or the solenoid is faulty..

So my friend, diagnostics is not so simple, you are still left with questions/choices..
 

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But at least you will then eliminate the control side if you get a satisfying clunk from the starter solenoid.
 

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What it does do (if clicks) is to confirm the control side is working..
So my friend, diagnostics is not so simple, you are still left with questions/choices..
But at least you will then eliminate the control side if you get a satisfying clunk from the starter solenoid.
Exactly
 

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I'm waiting for his next post stating he freaked out when he got a big spark off the jumper wire and no noise from the starter because the solenoid is jammed
 
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