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Hello, I have 2010 GV that I've owned since it was brand new. For 5 years and 110,000 miles, it's been a pretty good vehicle for me with no major issues. However, this past month, the passenger footwell of the vehicle has been getting soaked. At first I thought it was rain water that had entered through the window (we get really bad thunder storms in Pittsburgh) or through some other penetration. So I vacuumed it up, let the carpet and padding dry and looked for areas where the water could penetrate. The floor drains looked good and I didn't see any other areas where the water could have infiltrated the vehicle, so I figured it was a window that was inadvertently left down. Then it happened again the next day. This time I Googled it. Googling brought me to this site and I read just about every post I could find. The posts all lead to the HVAC unit leaking from the drain tube. I followed all of the suggestions - 1. Blow the tube out with air (I did both the tube and the plastic nipple that the tube attaches to at the fire wall. 3. Stick a coat hangar in through the plastic nipple to free debris. Nothing came out but a few drips of water. 2. Change the cabin air filter and clean that area (the entire area and below was dry.

When the A/C is running, the passenger footwell gets filled up in a matter of minutes and there is barely anything exiting the vehicle through the condensate drain out the firewall. I've attached a few photos that show where the water is coming from. My next option is to put some Right Stuff gasket material around the area in the pictures to seal the interior. I want to know a couple of things: 1. Whats causing the condensate to leak back into the vehicle and not through the clear drain tube (I can feel the air coming out of the tube when the car is running), and 2. If sealing it is okay to do, or am I just inviting other problems.

If this has been addressed here past what I've already mentioned please let me know which thread I can find the answers in. And thank you in advance for your help!!!

Pittsburgh in the summertime is not the place to be without A/C, so my next stop is the mechanic!
 

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2010 wet passenger floorboard - me too!

My 2010 XSport (~65K miles) has the same problem. I've done the same to try to solve it: blew out the tube and the plastic nozzle, fished around with a wire, changed the cabin air filter and cleaned out the area behind the glove box. A small amount of water is dripping under the car now when the a/c runs so I feel like I made some progress, but clear, plain water continues to fill the floorboard area on the passenger side. The leak is in the exact same location inside the cabin that is shown on Bubblehed's photos.

I'd like to know the same thing - can I seal it on the inside without causing damage somewhere?

Thanks!
 

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... and I read just about every post I could find.
Well, that and including geographic location in your profile have earned you a star!

The area indicated appears to be where either the AC evaporator or heater core pipes enter through the firewall. Is the HVAC box securely held in place?

Have you downloaded a service manual and reviewed how the HVAC box is put together? You can use the 06-08 manual, it's the same basic assembly as best I'm aware.
 

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Exactly same

My 2011 GV driven 116 000 km had the same problem last Sunday. Leakage in exactly the same place as the pictures show. Where can I download a service manual for the HVAC box, just to read?
 

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Has anyone found any solutions? I had a 2010 GV with only 41K miles. I never noticed anything but I never drove it for any length of time. Sold it to a buddy a few weeks ago and now his pass. side floor is soaked. He went on a 5hr trip and it flooded the floor. I had him bring it over and we let it run with the ac on for 20 minutes or so and saw no dripping under the car. Also nothing under the dash either. I sure would like to figure out and solve the issue.
 

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This was doomed to fail

I had to deliver my GV at the workshop . The mechanic said that the solution factory had used was useless. This was doomed to fail , he said.
In 2010/2011 it was made some changes on the GV , and we believe that in some cars were delivered new solution in the engine compartment and old solution in the cab. Or vice versa. And that these solutions do not fit together, when they meet in the bulkhead .
New parts did not help , the mechanic had to arrange this yourself . He had the entire dashboard to get to work.
Now it is completely dry. And best of all is that the guarantee covered everything . :)
 

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I had to deliver my GV at the workshop . The mechanic said that the solution factory had used was useless. This was doomed to fail , he said.
In 2010/2011 it was made some changes on the GV , and we believe that in some cars were delivered new solution in the engine compartment and old solution in the cab. Or vice versa. And that these solutions do not fit together, when they meet in the bulkhead .
New parts did not help , the mechanic had to arrange this yourself . He had the entire dashboard to get to work.
Now it is completely dry. And best of all is that the guarantee covered everything . :)
Hi,

I have the same problem with my GV 2010, the dealer says is not warranty.
Do you know why the water go inside the car, which part is broken.
precisely..?
 

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Have the same issue. Dealer says it is warantied but I had to do a quick fix while I'm waiting for them to come up with a fix.

Eazy and temporary fix is this: Remove the foam between the box and firewall in the pictures. Cut a 1.5 inch piece of hot water pipe insulating foam tube


Find the right diameter for yours but I think mine was for 3/4 line.
Stuff that around the opening and it seems to seal the area and stop water from coming in. It isn't a permanent fix but it resolves one issue.

so resolve the issue pull the dash back, pull the airbox back a few inches. Remove the firewall fitting.
Make something that seals the fitting to the airbox and that you can insert in the firewall and still install the airbox. Make a gasket similar to the temp fix with the foam tube but seal it properly to the airbox and then add some gasket sealant to the end so it makes good contact with the firewall and seal's.

Stock setup is bound to fail as soon as the gasket between the box and the firewall fail's!!
 

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Solution of the issue

Suzuki fix the issue by removing the adaptor (47) between the external hose and internal hose. (see picture)

So they connect directly the external hose on the internal conduit.
 

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Suzuki fix the issue by removing the adaptor (47) between the external hose and internal hose. (see picture)

So they connect directly the external hose on the internal conduit.
Awesome. Thanks for the pic. I've been looking for that.
How can you remove the adaptor without removing the dash?
 

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remove the adaptor

They have removed the adaptor by accessing under the car.
you have nothing to do inside the car.

good luck, I still haven't water leak again in the car for 1 week now.

I'm happy.
 

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They have removed the adaptor by accessing under the car.
you have nothing to do inside the car.

good luck, I still haven't water leak again in the car for 1 week now.

I'm happy.
That's good to know. I was debating doing it myself or get it done under warranty,.
When I first discovered this problem I couldn't easily pull the adaptor out so I just used a foam gasket for now but initially I wanted to pull it out since there was so much play in it.

Can I just destroy and pull the adaptor out or will that damage the airbox outlet?
They seem to be pretty close and it looks like I'll have to cut the flange on the inside just to let it come through.
 

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That's good to know. I was debating doing it myself or get it done under warranty,.
When I first discovered this problem I couldn't easily pull the adaptor out so I just used a foam gasket for now but initially I wanted to pull it out since there was so much play in it.

Can I just destroy and pull the adaptor out or will that damage the airbox outlet?
They seem to be pretty close and it looks like I'll have to cut the flange on the inside just to let it come through.
I didn't ask how they have proceed.
I just know that they have remove the external hose, then remove the adaptor then put back the external hose under the internal tube.

Maybe I can ask when I return for maintenance (oil) in approx. 3 week.
if I remember at this time.
 

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I had the same problem. My mechanic went from the engine side of the firewall, removed the hose, applied waterproof putty and reinstalled it.
Problem seems to have been fixed that was 3 months ago, and no sign of water since.
$70 repair bill
 

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I had the same problem. My mechanic went from the engine side of the firewall, removed the hose, applied waterproof putty and reinstalled it.
Problem seems to have been fixed that was 3 months ago, and no sign of water since.
$70 repair bill
Hi. Thanks for the reply, are you sure he sealed it from the outside only?
Because for me that would make it much worse.
Water doesnt even make it to the firewall before comming back into the cabin.
I could see maybe removing the feedthrough and connecting the hose and then wateroroof putty to seal the hole on the outside.
 

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Am I right in thinking the fix is to replace the stubby hose with the flat end, that I assume leaks where it joins the plastic case, with a good fitting shaped hose with no restriction on the end..

 

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The above parts list gives me the idea that it is either the stubby hose or a longer hose, Not both. IE no adaptor.
This is only how I see it, so could well be wrong..^_^
 

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Those pics come in really handy :)
My gv has the long hose, therefore the only fix so far is to remove/destroy the adapter and connect the long hose directly to the aibox outlet.
Then make a bushing that keeps the outside elements out.

If you already have the short piece with the flat end, then your good.
Just make sure it fits well and isnt blocked up.
 

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follow up

I finally return to the dealer and I ask him if they are able to remove the adaptor or If I have to destroy the adaptor, the answer was:

Often he have no choice to destroy the adaptor.
 
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