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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
To all SX4 owners I'm pretty sure you might run into this problem with the drive shaft u-joints. The fact they don't have grease fittings, they seize up and cause vibration problems, also are "Staked In" at factory. The fact you can't find them is "BS" because they want you to buy the whole assembly.....about $540.00 last search i did. I removed the u-joints and took measurements. I'm posting my measurements of the u-joint and flanges. If anyone can find some info on this please let me know. I am still researching.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the info. Just order 2 430-10A. Will update when I replace them. BTW was a little rough getting them out. The rear one was so rusted the cap was hard to come off. Here's a pic of what it looked like once i got it off.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
2008 Suzuki Sx4 u-joint update

Well thanks to Schultzey :D, I was able to fix my drive shaft. My Sx4 has all wheel drive again. No vibration issues. The weird part is that the flanges on the drive shaft itself are wider than the end flanges. Who makes different size flanges, u-joints are equally sized between all cups, as far as i know. The clips provided with joints were flushed against inside only on end flanges. I used all clips provided. I also "re staked" them my way with a pointed center punch. good idea to re-sharpen it, better results. BTW new u-joints have grease fittings. Good luck to everyone who has this problem.
 

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Excellent information -thank you.

I need to replace the U-Joints on my '08 SX4 JLX and I am wondering if anyone knows of a supplier based in Canada? The links provided by Schultzey show a USA supplier theujointstore.com

Thanks :)
 

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THis might help:

n47w73 from MOntreal said: In fact the shop who made the repair , Mr Driveshaft in Lasalle Montreal, used Rockford joints. I think Rockford are the only company making thoses.

THomperoux from Ottawa said: Ya. Ottawa Driveshaft & Steering (Michael Street) has done some and can get the Rockford u-joints. He doesn't do them anymore but he'll sell you the u-joints ($30-40) and balance it for $130.
 

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Thanks LMP,

I will check out those two contacts. I'm also waiting to hear from an eBay seller in Ontario to see if the Mazda U-Joints he has listed are Rockford.

Thanks. :)
 

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I removed the prop shaft, the end flanges were easy to unbolt, the carrier support was a different matter as the nuts had rusted and the socket wouldn't fit. I tried the usual method of heating and applying penetrating oil and one of the nuts came off with vise-grips. The other one, however, had rusted and disintegrated such that I couldn't get vise-grips to hold. The answer was an Irwin nut remover - removed it effortlessly like a brand new nut. :)

My problem now is that the rear U-joint has worn so much that it has damaged the yoke on the flange so I don't think a replacement U-Joint will be satisfactory unless I can find the flange with yoke too?

The former Suzuki dealer wants $1662 for a prop shaft! That's out of the question so I am now wondering if anyone knows of an aftermarket source of prop shafts for an SX4?
It's that or one from a scrap yard!

Thanks for any input. :)
 

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just wondering how you made out with the driveshaft. We have an 08 sx4 with the same problem. Ordered the ujoints from the ujoint store. Have the shaft out and working on removing the caps. Any good ideas on this removal?
 

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Beacuse of the damaged yoke I didn't replace the U joints although I tried removing them. I used an old socket to punch them through, no need to use a grinder or dremel. I watched several youtube videos on "unstaking" staked u-joints and its quite straightforward if you take care to support the shaft and not subject it to any hammering. The weld is the place to hold it if you rest it in a vice, not the pipe of the shaft.

The dealer has sold all their inventory of Suzuki parts at a 30% discount to Newfoundland. I called another former dealer in Fredericton and they wanted $1600 for a new shaft (exc sales tax). Another former dealer that now sells Nissans (Grand Falls New Brunswick) offered me a new one (nos) for $1100 but they also offered a used one that had done 30,000 kms for $550. I negotiated the price downwards to include tax and shipping. Really easy to install and the cheapest solution for me. :)

Perhaps it would be worthwhile negotiating the price of old inventory from former Suzuki dealers. There are not many Suzukis on the road any longer around me - too expensive to maintain unless you do some work yourself once the miles add up?

Good luck. :)
 

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Well done, thanks for sharing. :thumbsup:
For those wondering Suzuki want over $500 bucks for a complete new propshaft. So if your centre bearing is good, this is the way to go.

And welcome to the forum.:)
 

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NEW Rockford U-Joints made for the SX4 !!!

It a long story but my SX4 driveshaft with bad U-joints was used by Rockford Drive Line as their Engineering Sample to design the CORRECT REPLACEMENT U-JOINTS for the SX4 !!

The NEW Rockford part number is 430-10D, and it should be in production soon if not already. This part is made specifically for the repair of "staked-in non replaceable" Suzuki SX4 drive shaft U-joints.

My car has the (prototype) 430-10D u-joint installed and has been on the road with those since late December 2015 with no issues See pics as I took it out of the box (yup I sent them a bad drive shaft and Rockford REBUILT it for me with the newly designed u-joints---all I had to do was put it back in the car !!!) So, I can't tell you how easy the u-joints are to install...

This part is not yet listed on the Rockford website as of today (see http://rockforddriveline.com/Staked-In_U-Joints.pdf) but ASK your supplier for it. This company has taken the time to engineer the NEW part to solve your problem. Please support them with your business. Note I'm not connected with Rockford in any way, I was a disappointed SX4 owner jusr like you, but now I'm an extremely happy Rockford Drive Line customer ! Fantastic customer service.

I do want to say, the 430-10A part that has been used by others, is NOT a true replacement u-joint because the SX4 yokes have two different inside dimensions but that part has all (4) clips the same distance apart (see "B" dimension on the link) It can obviously be made to work but the new 430-10D Rockford Drive Line part is the correct one.
 

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The Rockford 430-10D has problems with dimensions and installation

This is a long post detailing the issues I found with the Rockford 430-10D replacement u-joint, which I was totally dis-satisfied with. If you don’t want to read all the gory details and want to have an easier install, I would steer clear of the Rockford product and use the part mentioned in the last paragraph of this post.

I’d like to detail the exact opposite experience I had with the 430-10D from what Bruizer had. Unless something changes at Rockford, I do not recommend SX4 owners use their product for the SX4 driveshaft.

My story is different from his in that I performed the joint installations myself and therefor was able to see the deficiencies of the Rockford product.

I purchased two 430-10D joints, after removing the driveshaft from my car and noticing my joints did not change angle smoothly.

Details about the 430-10D cannot be found on Rockford’s website, however a Rockford distributor did have a pdf brochure that showed it. I wasn’t aware the joint was asymmetrical and in my mind the brochure didn’t clearly state that fact (I now realize the mention of “combination joint” on a separate line beneath the 430-10D listing refers to the joint’s asymmetry- but the meaning of “combination joint and whether it’s referring to the -10D part is not clear).

I received the parts, disassembled my drive shaft, and started reassembly. After fully installing the first opposing cups I realized the joint was asymmetrical; fortunately I had installed the short yoke cross trunnion into the correct yoke end piece, a 50/50 chance, that by accident I got right.

I was kind of pissed that Rockford would supply an asymmetric joint without any mention on the box or in the enclosed instructions that this was an oddball joint and needed to be “clocked” correctly. It would have been far better to be told that first, than having to disassemble a freshly assembled u-joint because it was “clocked” in the wrong position, likely damaging brand new parts in the process. That was “strike 1” against Rockford.

I had noticed when I first placed the cups into the yoke bores that the rubber seal at the open end of the cup was significantly larger in diameter that the yoke bore, but I thought to myself, “Ok, Rockford has machined the cups to allow the rubber to compress during installation and all will be OK”. Wrong!!! As I pressed the cup into the bore, the rubber seal had nowhere to go and the yoke sheared a nice ragged ring of rubber off the seal. By the time the cup was pressed as far as it would go into position (more on that later) the seal was clearly damaged and therefor would poorly perform its job to keep grease in and keep dirt out. When I installed the second cup I was careful to try to gently press the outer diameter of the seal with a flat bladed screwdriver to persade it to eed into the bore, but no such luck, as that seal also tore, although not as bad. WTF kind of design is this? Strike 2 for Rockford.

I then called Rockford and talked to their customer service folks. I wanted new seals, and told them the only way I thought the seals could be installed without damage was to first install them onto the cross trunnion and then install the trunnion and cups to the Yoke. I mentioned that would be a totally oddball way of installing a u-joint, and the customer service rep agreed that didn’t sound right. He said he would check and get back to me.

I got an email back that said they would send replacement seals and yes, the seals were to be removed from the cups and installed onto the cross trunnion prior to installation into the yoke. That is a completely oddball installation process and an added complexity to a bitchy assembly process at that. Wouldn’t it have been nice to mention that in the enclosed instructions! Strike 2.5 for Rockford. By the way, the instructions are for a generic, normal u-joint, not a specialty , so no special warning’s are offered.

Because I had not yet damaged all my seals, I decided to go ahead and complete what I could of the installation while waiting for the replacement seals. After very carefully disassembling the two cups I’d already installed (not easy to do without damaging something or loosing some needle bearings) I reassembled the same two opposing pair of cups and when I went to install the 2nd inner clip, I found that the clip groove on the second cup was not exposed enough to install the clip. Enough of the clip groove was hiding in the yoke bore to prevent installation of the clip. I used every trick I knew to persuade the cups to move closer to one another and expose the last clip groove without any luck. B y the way, I have over 9 years of working professionally in car repair shops and over 40 years of working on cars in general. I have installed many, many u-joints so this is not my first rodeo. I am also a Manufacturing Engineer with plenty of experience in assembly and fabrication processes as well as proper product design.

I disassembled the joint to make sure there were no fallen needle bearings, and there were none. I then started measuring parts and it quickly became apparent the u-joint did not meet it’s 1.575” dimension which is is the distance Rockford states for the inside to inside of the small end yoke and the dimension the clips need to set at. The outside of one cup’s clip groove to the outside of the opposing cup’s clip groove measured 1.586”. That means there was .011” of groove that would be hiding in the yoke, preventing the clip installation. Something was either wrong with the design or the manufacture of one or several of the parts to cause this issue. I measured both of the joints I had and the same issue was present on both. My yoke’s inside dimension measured the 1.575” styated in the Rockford brochure.

I sent Rockford an email with lot’s of measurement photo’s and descriptions. They said they would check their stock. An email came back with a coy statement that the parts they measured from their stock “met all the specs we have here”. They did not address the 1.575” dimension specifically. I decided to send them back my parts so they could see the issue. A few days after they received the parts I got another email saying much the same thing, my parts “met the specs we have here”. I then called the Customer Service rep and told him I’m like to speak to the person who performed the measurements. I received a call from that person the next day. He said he was the person who “developed” the part and who also performed the measurements on their stock and my returned parts. He would not tell me specifically what he measured and stuck with the “met the specs we have here” response.

He claimed that my method of clamping the cups to the trunnion could introduce a measurement error due to angular tipping of the cups on the trunnion, however I think that any such tipping of the cups necessary to account for .011 would be visible and would be limited by the close needle bearing clearances that would prevent such tipping. I did not buy this persons answers and remain convinced Rockford has a dimensional issue they are not owning up to.

In reviewing the photographs of the driveshaft supplied to Bruiser, it’s clear in the last picture of post #15 (WP_20151219_010.jpg), that the clip is sitting in an angle in it’s groove because it had to be jammed into the groove. The clip is not rotated to seat on the flat inner portion of the yoke because it is jammed in place and cannot be rotated. This would normally be an example of poor installation practice, but in this case it’s a result of a dimensional issue preventing the clip from being installed properly; by Rockford themselves. I will follow up with all my photos but for now I’m on travel and don’t have access to them because they’re on my home computer.

Fortunately I was able to get my money back from Rockford and fortunately I was able to find an alternate u-joint supplier that has a suitable joint that isn’t entirely without it’s own problems, although it’s a much better alternative than the Rockford product. It has a similar problem with the clip position for the small side yoke, however it was only .003" incorrect and that was easily corrected by sanding about .001" off each clip surface. It has an entirely different seal design that doesn’t get torn on installation. It’s available from The U Joint Store as part number TUS-SX-4 for half the price of the Rockford 430-10D. Oh, and they also had a slip of paper included with the order that referenced the asymmetric nature of the joint.
 

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replacement u joints

i replaced u joints on my prop shaft with u joints from the u joint store in the states.i have a 2010 sx4 the u joints they gave me were for a 2009 sx4 as they dont know about 2010, so i measured yokes etc and they said measurements same as 2009.Anyhow they sent me u joints free of charge(thank guys) to try out, fitted them but still go a vibration around 100kph.Phoned around to try and get someone to balance my shaft but no prop shop will look at it, they all say the issue is with the yolks for some reason and every yolk they inspect they say is bad?Any idea who i could send this shaft to in Canada to get balanced.
 

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i replaced u joints on my prop shaft with u joints from the u joint store in the states.i have a 2010 sx4 the u joints they gave me were for a 2009 sx4 as they dont know about 2010, so i measured yokes etc and they said measurements same as 2009.Anyhow they sent me u joints free of charge(thank guys) to try out, fitted them but still go a vibration around 100kph.Phoned around to try and get someone to balance my shaft but no prop shop will look at it, they all say the issue is with the yolks for some reason and every yolk they inspect they say is bad?Any idea who i could send this shaft to in Canada to get balanced.
Maybe the damaged yokes they're seeing are the result of damage from people trying to make the poor fitting Rockford product work.

In any case where in Canada do you live? It would make sense to find someone in the US just "across the border". If you were in BC, I could suggest a place in Seattle.

There are certainly other causes for vibrations so don't be surprised if balancing doesn't get rid of it. I sensed a slight vibration similar to your's and there was no change by replacing the u-joints even though they were clearly found bad on disassembly.
 

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the irwin nut removal set has saved me a million times...love those...specially on my pennsylvania rusty bolt sx4 :)
 

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the irwin nut removal set has saved me a million times...love those...specially on my pennsylvania rusty bolt sx4 :)
OK welcome...so we know you live in Pennsylvania., Write that in your profile so we do not ask each time when you post again.
And....can you detail what you did with the irwin tool ?
 
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