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Discussion Starter #1
I'm sure you all have heard this a hundred times. My daughters car is throwing codes p2106 and p2138, throttle actuator control system- forced limited power, and throttle pedal position sensor/switch D/E voltage correlation. I have replaced both the throttle pedal assy and the complete throttle body. Ofcourse it loses power and you have to pull over and reset the throttle system. I have talked to Suzuki in California and local dealers. They know these cars have electronic wiring problems. Now the thing revs up to 7000 rpm going down the road. The car doesn't speed up it just races to 7000 once or twice then goes back to normal. Any info would be greatly apprecciated, thanx Daveg
 

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Dave. Include the year, make, engine size and model in your posts.

You can simply add those in your "sig" at the bottom of each post, where it shows automatically for ease.

Also include your location (in USER CP) to further help those assisting.

Welcome aboard!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the come back Max, will put info in my signature, later Daveg
 

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P2138/p2106

I too am curious as to how to fix this. I have a 07 Forenza. I replaced the accelerator pedal and it was fine for a little while (5 daysish) and then it crapped out again. I bought a throttle body to replace the throttle position sensor next. It's still in the mail so hopefully it gets here tomorrow. Today I got electrical cleaner and cleaned the connections to the ECM. I had also cleaned the connections to the pedal position sensor when I replaced the pedal. I've looked all over the internet on how to fix this issue but have yet to find anything solid. I can drive the car for about 2 hours w/o any issues and then it'll go into limp mode. I turn the car off and then on and its back to 4 cylinders again. I usually shift into a lower gear if I'm going uphill for a little extra power but can't top 65 MPH. I bought a code scanner today and cleared the codes that way instead of disconnecting the batt cable. I also cleaned the connection for the TPS on the throttle body.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Sparda, my daughters '08 is back at the dealer, they replaced the ECU or ECM what ever you want to call it. NO GOOD, she didn't get 10 miles from the dealer and it went into limp mode and lost power. I to have replaced the pedal assy, complete throttle body as on the '08 you can,t replace the TPS only. I have cleaned ALL connections,ALL body grounds, you name it,s been cleaned and checked for bad connections and corrosion. At least we found a Suzuki dealer that is staying with us trying to find the problem. As soon as we get the car back and find out what it was, THAT IS IF THEY FIND IT, I will be posting what the problem is or was. Later guys
 

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I got my throttle body in the mail today. It was a used part since i didnt know for sure if this was the fix. I cleaned it up with carb cleaner and with a steel wire brush i cleaned the contacts in the plug as well. I also used electrical cleaner to clean the contacts again. Cleaned out the contacts in the plugs for the ECM. After using the cleaner I used a air compressor to make sure they were completely dry. Cleaned the air intake sensor thats located in the tubing running between the air filter box and the throttle. Used electrical cleaner and carb cleaner, using the air compressor to dry it after. I cleaned no plugs inside the car, but i did make sure that everything was connected correctly by making sure they were all pushed in. This weekend I picked up a craftsman obd2 scanner tool and cleared the codes with it instead of doing the usual disconnect of the battery cable. After all was said and done I took it out for a drive and it's worked so far. I drove for a little over an hour, all highway. I pushed it to 80 and went through the gears slow at first and then faster as I let the engine clean itself out a little. I just got back from afghanistan and had the car in storage for 10 months but the problem happened 2 days before I left so just now getting to it. It picks up great, runs smooth, and I had no issue running and gunning it. I brought the scanner tool with me just in case. It has a live feed option that shows data as you drive and can record. It also picks up freeze frames when the code comes on. Fortunately I didn't have to use it as the check engine light didnt go off. Hope this sorta helps and I'll post back if it continues to work. So far I've only spent 140 trying to fix this, 70 for the pedal and 70 for the used throttle body. I did the replacements so no labor costs.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Hope your luck holds, ours has been bad, car still at dealer, no word from them yet. I have a code scanner like you got, great thing aren't they. Later
 

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Dam

Well the issue arose again after running fine since my last post. It threw the code 3 times today. But I had my code scanner with me so just cleared them as i was driving. I did find with the scanner the actual D/E correlation issue. I had the car idling and the D was 10.2 and E 5.1 at normal operation. When it threw the code, the car was simply in idle and the D was 10.2 again but the E was jumping around. It slowly but surely climbed up to 8.8 while the D stayed at the constant 10.2. This being the case, I need to figure out why the voltage is changing on the E and not the D. Bad wiring or the ECU. I've replaced the pedal with a new one and the throttle body with a used one tested working. I have no idea what to really check for now and don't have the time this weekend to check, but was curious to find out if the dealer finally found the issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Well after they replaced the ECU it had thrown the codes and she lost power, we took it back, they had it for over 2 weeks, and put a whopping 59 miles on it, of course they had no problems, and so far in the last 3 weeks we had had NO problems with it, but now that I said that the damn thing will more than likely start screwing up again, MAYBE the ECU was the problem who knows bud, wish you luck, oh ya, they had to get some special grease to put into the connectors, I use an industial grade electrical grease (dielectric) myself on all my car and motorcycle connectors, you may try cleaning ALL the body grounds if you haven't already, again good luck..
 

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Dam the man

Ok, I'm having the issue again and it's happening within a minute or two after starting and taking off. Did you eventually find for sure the overall fix vs the shotgun approach?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
No luck

Sparda, I have give up on this piece of junk. If she didn't owe so much on it we'd trade it in tomorrow. Now the Crankshaft position relearn code has shown up and can't delete it, also the other codes come on now and then. Found out these things are GM product that didn't make it here in the states. Now I know why, soooo I tell everyone I know or even meet on the street, Do Not buy a Suzuki. So good luck with your '07. Later Daveg
 

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Still Chasing

Well I did this last nite and wanted to see if you had done this as well. I went back and reread everything but nothing was specific on this part. The connectors you inspected, were they the ones to the throttle body, to the pedal and to the computer only? Last nite I removed the kick panel on the left hand side that gives you access to the block connection of the IP harness to the body harness that leads into the engine bay. I unmounted the block, pulled it apart and tooks a brass wire brush to all the connectors. There's also a ground right there that I took off and brushed as well. I drove it last night without issue and will let you know how the rest of the week goes. I've been continuing to try and find out WTH the problem is because driving my V8 truck is killing me on gas. And what brought this idea up is looking at other car makes/models and someone mentioning that condensation from using the A/C floor mode can cause the wires to corrode. So I used the brush and electrical cleaner in the block followed by canned air to dry it off. Also made sure all the wires were pushed in snuggly into the block connectors. If you havent done this and do end up doing it, make sure you disconnect the battery, my dumbass forgot brass is a conductor and sparks flew and the car honked
 

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One More Time

Sparda I will try one more time, I actually was wondering about that connector so we'll give it a shot. Hope you have good luck with your fix. I'll let ya know if it makes any difference for us. Later Daveg
 

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I haven't driven it today but I will tonight again. I don't wanna risk being late to work test driving it. I forgot to do it but I'm sure you will, putting grease on the connections to prevent it happening again if this is the issue. Even if this isnt the fix I'll continue to work on it until i come to a final solution. I'm VERY stubborn
 

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Day 3

Drove it all last nite, about an hour of driving, stop go / highway, prolly bout 30 miles or so. No issues. Drove it to work today, about 10 miles, highway, no issue. I would usually have it happen right away when it was cooler temperatures like this morning.
 

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Day 4

Ok, so last night it happened again. Went strong but obviously it wasnt the cure for cancer I was looking for. So today I finally broke down and called the Suzuki dealership that's closest to me and asked to speak with the service tech. I told him the two codes I got, P2138/P2106, and told him I replaced the throttle body and accelerator pedal. He laughed and told me that prolly didn't do shit for long which I laughed and said pretty much. All in all, he said the fix is to clean the ECU connectors with contact cleaner and that a white waxy material will fly out of it, which I had already done that and then put grease on them after. He said to also do the connectors at the pedal and the throttle. I told him I had already done the IP to Body harness connector. Finally the one that I've been putting off came into the list plus another. He said that you need to clean the Engine fuse box and the big connector that's near the fender close to the headlight. Same method of cleaning he said. Contact cleaner and spray the hell out of them with air to get all the junk out. The engine fuse block he said u have to take apart, turn upside down and clean the contacts below it. Said after that, problem should be solved. Not once did he mention replacing the wiring harness or the ECU or the pedal or the throttle body as a fix. He went straight to, clean this, this, this, this, and this. I'm going to do it tonite and will prolly end up laughing if I find a wire under the fuse box that's loose or a connector that's corroded. It'll be dark out but I'll take pictures as best I can.
 

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After Cleaning

Ok, I took all the connectors apart and cleaned every one of them first by brass brush to the pins and then contact cleaner to both male and female connectors. I found a butterfly in one of my connectors... dunno if it was in there before or after i opened it but it was long dead. Anyways, the engine fuse box has 3 screws, one in the back of it that's easier to get to if u unmount the positive battery harness that's by the coolant resevoir (w/e). Also disconnect the other two connectors and it'll make getting the fuse block off a hell of a lot easier. Cleaned all the connectors underneath the fuse block and then sprayed. Dried everything with the compressor i have. I must say, i started up the engine and it felt as if it had more power, for one, and two the idle was VERY steady. I'm hoping this is it and there's no more bullshitting. I'm gonna drive it tonight and tomorrow to work. it seemed like it always happens when it's either cool outside or foggy or after rain.

***Attached are what I cleaned
 

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It's been four days since I've cleaned the connectors under the hood and no issue. The pedal is way more responsive. I have a manual so first gear has become so much better about not needing to press the gas to take off. Easily let off the clutch and it moves smoothly. Over all RPM when needing to take off has shown a difference. Altho I did just replace the spark plug wires for the first time. Used NGK wires and the difference can be felt. All in all I think the little electrical demon has been killed. In all honesty I really do hope you do this to your forenza Dave. The difference is noticable. As for the position sensor, I can't help you there as I haven't had to replace it but I'm sure you have the site to the online manual. If not then here you go, just go off the 1.8 engine, it's the Lacetti... Daewoo Service Manual Works best in firefox and internet explorer. Google chrome doesnt play to well with the website.
 
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