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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My '07 Grand Vitara with 160k miles started idling rough and struggling to start. Shop wanted almost $900 to service the EGR system - $500 for the valve itself, then a considerable amount of labor hours to rip everything apart to get to the valve as they said it's tough to get to on this engine.

$900 is more than I was willing to blindly spend on a beat up 12 year old car, so I resolved to have a go at fixing it myself despite being a rather clueless mechanic.

I found on this forum and youtube that the EGR valve is indeed in a terrible spot on the H27A engine and everyone confirmed that the manifold had to come off to get to the valve, except for one poster who claimed he had done an EGR valve replacement on this engine on an XL-7 without removing the manifold. He was kind enough to post very detailed instructions:


1. Remove (2) 8mm bolts securing the engine cover.
2. Use 10mm socket to remove battery terminals and then battery strap. Remove battery and set aside. Now you have some area to work.
3. Remove (1) 10mm bolt supporting the center of the EGR tube
4. Remove (2) 10mm bolts attaching the EGR tube to the passenger side manifold.
5. Remove (2) 10mm bolts attaching the EGR tube to the bottom side of the intake manifold. Use a small tool mirror to get a look under the manifold if need be.
6. Remove the EGR tube from the vehicle. BE AWARE THAT THERE ARE SMALL METAL GASKETS ON EITHER END OF THE TUBE. These can be re-used.
7. Remove (2) 12mm bolts holding the EGR valve to the engine. BE AWARE THAT THERE IS A SMALL METAL GASKET BETWEEN THE INTAKE MANIFOLD AND THE EGR VALVE.
8. Now that the valve is free press the left center of the electrical connector on the EGR valve. Work the valve free from the connector. Mine came right off.
9. Remove the valve.
Turns out the above process does work just fine. It definitely required some fiddling and a lot of patience, but was MUCH faster and simpler than removing the manifold. The most difficult part was getting enough leverage in such a small space to break the seized up bolts on the EGR valve.

I had the old valve off in under 2 hours. The vast majority of that was spent trying to hit the seized bolts with PB blaster and find enough leverage to break them. Would have been about 45 minutes otherwise.

There was definitely some carbon buildup on the valve but not anywhere close to some of the pics I've seen. Confirmed that the EGR tube wasn't blocked. Also couldn't feel any major buildup where the valve connected to the manifold, so despite the valve not looking awful it seemed like the most likely issue.

Probably could have just cleaned it but saw replacements were cheap so I decided to go that route instead. Ordered the cheapest replacement I could find on Amazon for $35. It arrived the next day and appeared to be an exact match, probably a remanufactured part.

Had the valve and tube on in about 45 minutes. Car hummed right to life. Rough idle and starting troubles cured. Replaced the plugs as well and it's running better than it has in years. A week in and no further issues.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
I've attached a few pics. This is looking behind the engine from the passenger side, accessed by removing the battery. In the first pic you can see two of the 10mm bolts that need to come off to get the EGR tube off. The next pic you can see the other end of the EGR tube, and one of the 12mm bolts on the EGR valve. The other one is out of sight but easy to find by feel. The wiring harness is also out of site on the other side but easy enough to disconnect and reconnect by feel.

There are a few hoses in this area one could disconnect to create a little more working room but I didn't find it necessary.



 

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What would happen on this vehicle if you simply blanked both ends of the valve rather than replaced?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Minimally? A code producing nightmare and an engine that would under-perform. :(
 

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Minimally? A code producing nightmare and an engine that would under-perform. :(
Forgive my ignorance, but, why would it underperform?

Over the years I have watched other contributors on this and other fora predict all sorts of dire consequences (including engine damage) and been puzzled by it, the EGR system is an emission control system intended to reduce NOx emissions.

I have owned multiple Suzukis that were never fitted with EGR systems, and as far as I can tell not suffered because of it - I've also blanked the EGR valve passage on one of the non-Suzuki vehicles I own, and have gotten no codes, and no noticeable change in performance or fuel economy
 
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EGR Valve Issue

Yea, I came across the same Huge price to service the EGR from the dealer when my 2008 Grand Vitara thru the code at 58,000 miles, just past warranty. Quoted $475 for EGR and $300 labor, this was back in 2012. I refuse to spend that much for an EGR. Looked online and replacement was running $265, but as they say getting to it would be a nightmare. Instead ran 2 cans of carb cleaner until the check engine light cleared. Code returned 2 years later and found a great shop that used there expensive machine to check if the valve was bad. Unit ok, just stuck momentarily, they were able to remove it without having to take off the manifold. He stated carbon build-up in the mounting hole is almost always the reason for the code. Cleaned the tubes with a wire tube brush and went another 3 years until the code again. Can or 2 to cleaner again and code went off. Just passed 150,000 and never replaced it yet.
 

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this thread is golden,
thank you OP for the info.
Just completed this procedure today on my 06 GV with V6 engine.

I thought the oil filter location was a PITA, well, this EGR thought me a whole new lesson.

Anyway, thanks again for the inspiration and the pictures that proved me i was on the right way.


Now only need to figure out how to get this vehicle to operate normally after all this time with the battery disconnected (AC not working, Sunroof messed up, Idle like crap)
 

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I tried this, the pipe came out easy, but the valve would not budge. Bolts are stuck on good, angle is no good for leverage (especially since I'm right handed).

I am getting a extra long spray can straw on amazon so I can try to direct PB blaster where it needs to go and not just all over the back of my engine.

Also going to try to use an impact driver with flexible extension, right angle adapter + hex --> square drive adapter.

Will see how it goes...
 

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I changed my EGR valve on this car about 2 months ago. Same issue with the engine going nuts and engine codes coming up. I tried it the shortcut way but the one bolt on the Flexipipe connected to the value wouldn't come out. No space. I ultimately ripped apart the engine, and other than 1 bolt for the air plenum stripping, it wasn't too bad. Sure it'd alot of steps, Including removing the gas lines and injectors, but it was a good choice and I cleaned the pipe and openings in the air plunem so it wouldn't happen again. There was alot of build up. But really what the issue was , is that the EGR valve internal spring was stuck!!! When I started to take it apart after replacing it with the new, I found the spring half open/closed and then snapped into place after I opened it. I would recommend take a mallet and maybe lightly hitting your EGR valve. It could be just a stuck spring like mine was. Nonetheless it isn't too hard to take everything apart and get a good cleanup job done.
 

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I changed my EGR valve on this car about 2 months ago. Same issue with the engine going nuts and engine codes coming up. I tried it the shortcut way but the one bolt on the Flexipipe connected to the value wouldn't come out. No space. I ultimately ripped apart the engine, and other than 1 bolt for the air plenum stripping, it wasn't too bad. Sure it'd alot of steps, Including removing the gas lines and injectors, but it was a good choice and I cleaned the pipe and openings in the air plunem so it wouldn't happen again. There was alot of build up. But really what the issue was , is that the EGR valve internal spring was stuck!!! When I started to take it apart after replacing it with the new, I found the spring half open/closed and then snapped into place after I opened it. I would recommend take a mallet and maybe lightly hitting your EGR valve. It could be just a stuck spring like mine was. Nonetheless it isn't too hard to take everything apart and get a good cleanup job done.
I am going to rip out that stuff eventually to change the leaky valve covers, but for now, I need to get rid of the check engine light to pass my states emissions tests.

I'll probably do it outside too so the garage doesn't fill with gasoline fumes.
 

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I am going to rip out that stuff eventually to change the leaky valve covers, but for now, I need to get rid of the check engine light to pass my states emissions tests.

I'll probably do it outside too so the garage doesn't fill with gasoline fumes.
its not too bad and the fuel fumes isn't that bad either. there isn't alot of fuel that comes out of the fuel rails, if you hold the fuel rails a certain way, but i will add, be very careful near the throttle body as the antifreeze line is in the vicinity and it can be easy to drop antifreeze into the intake valves. overall i was please to change it and clean out the egr line. i used break cleaner to clean everything including the injectors before reinstalling. went through about 4 cans of break cleaner. the nice thing is most of the bolts are the exact same size and there is alot of them. its a tight squeeze to get the air plenum off and getting it back on. you have to take off the 2 bolts in the back which are hard and limited space that hold the wires to the plenum. you need as much squeeze room as possible to get that plenum off.
 
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