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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 2006 XL-7 with a smashed left driver's door, electric. The door opens and closes and latches, all the electric controls work, the window goes up and down, and all that good stuff. As you can see in the pictures the door is buckled. A friend was using the car to help a dead friend's family empty a storage unit. He left the door open and some rat crashed into it and took off. Body shops want $2500.00 to $3600.00 to repair. $1,000.00 for a door, almost $800.00 to paint and blend in the door to match. A friend got me a door, now I have to get it installed.

Another friend was going to fix it but he got sick on a VetsRoll trip to Washington in October. He's getting better but ???

The problem is I can't drive the car if it rains or snows. A real bummer. Does anyone have a link on how to replace the door with a "new" door from a junkyard.

If I lived in Arizona or where it doesn't rain or snow, I wouldn't care, but I live in Illinois. Brrrrrr. Rain and snow today.

Any help or information would be great.

Thank you.

If you're ever in Rockford let me know and we'll give you a tour of the LZ Peace Memorial, which honors veterans from Winnebago County, Illinois who were killed in Vietnam.

Here's the URL www.lzpeace.org


Wheel Tire Car Vehicle Motor vehicle
. www.lzpeace.org
 

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The door is held on by 2 hinges, unbolt them and disconnect the wires in the door bellows. The door will then be free.

Reverse to install replacement.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The door is held on by 2 hinges, unbolt them and disconnect the wires in the door bellows. The door will then be free.

Reverse to install replacement.
Whoa. That was quick. Do I unbolt the hinges from the door, or from the frame? Might you have a link to a video? Thank you very much. If and when I get it done I'll post a picture. Thanks We drove from Rockford to Hammond, Indiana for the door. A great salvage yard if anyone in the area is interested. Northlake Auto Recyclers, in Hammond, Indiana. Very friendly, nice and they love veterans and well organized. https://www.narparts.com/
 

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This is not a simple replacement job as has been suggested.

You have more than likely suffered door jamb / door opening fit-up damage given the severity of the impact displayed. This is the reasoning for your multiple Body Shop estimate figures appearing high.

This repair will require special tooling and body repair expertise in order to provide a wind noise (less), weather-proof, paint appropriate match and exacting fit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
This is not a simple replacement job as has been suggested.

You have more than likely suffered door jamb / door opening fit-up damage given the severity of the impact displayed. This is the reasoning for your multiple Body Shop estimate figures appearing high.

This repair will require special tooling and body repair expertise in order to provide a wind noise (less), weather-proof, paint appropriate match and exacting fit.
Ugh. Not what I wanted to hear. Thank you. I like the first reply. I'll let you know how it turns out.
 

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Unbolting the hinge from the frame requires the fender to be removed, unbolting the hinge from the door is easier - be warned, even if the frame/jamb is undamaged, this is not a simple repair, you're going to need a minimum of two people to just remove & replace the door, and you can expect to spend quite a bit of time adjusting it, I suggest you remove the latch from the jamb whilst initially installing the door, and a floor jack and a timber 2x4 under the door to support it whilst adjusting the hinges.
 

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And the electric plugs are just inside the door (or in the pillar, that ends usually a real #$×=%$ to get to), remove inner card and disconnect them and remove from the door ( gently pull bellows out if the door) before trying to undo hinges otherwise someone's going to be holding a heavy door while you work out how to stop tearing the cable out of the bellows or the car..
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Unbolting the hinge from the frame requires the fender to be removed, unbolting the hinge from the door is easier - be warned, even if the frame/jamb is undamaged, this is not a simple repair, you're going to need a minimum of two people to just remove & replace the door, and you can expect to spend quite a bit of time adjusting it, I suggest you remove the latch from the jamb whilst initially installing the door, and a floor jack and a timber 2x4 under the door to support it whilst adjusting the hinges.
Thank you for the advice. Another friend said the same thing about the fender. The door is heavy and every year things seem to get much heavier than the year before. I do NOT want to hear the word, OOOOPS when we're fixing it. Thanks again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
And the electric plugs are just inside the door (or in the pillar, that ends usually a real #$×=%$ to get to), remove inner card and disconnect them and remove from the door ( gently pull bellows out if the door) before trying to undo hinges otherwise someone's going to be holding a heavy door while you work out how to stop tearing the cable out of the bellows or the car..
When you say "remove inner card and " do you mean "remove inner CORD and". Great advice. Do I remove the inner door panel to get at the wiring harness.???.

Thank you. Great advice from everyone.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Inner card would be the door panel.
Thanks for clearing up that mystery. Inner card might be the real name. YOU'RE RIGHT for $10,000.000.

Google says. Door panels, also known as door cards are the inserts of a vehicle that are used to cover the internal components of the door. Door panels are usually designed by auto manufacturers to blend with the interior décor and design.
 
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