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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi, just bought a used Suzuki reno with 55k miles on it and it has been driving very smoothly until I filled it up for the first time and the check engine light came on after I noticed the power of the vehicle being low, like I really had to gas it to get it moving. I pulled over and looked up some causes and read that the gas cap not being tightened could be the culprit, so I got out and retightened the cap and turned on my car without any issues except for the check engine light being on.

I called the dealership and they explained to me that I should drive it around and it should turn off. After 10 or so miles it eventually did.

The car was running fine the next couple of days and I noticed a slight dip in the power again with the light coming on then immediately turning off again. This happened 1 more time until today.

It has been VERY cold the entire week I have had this car especially last night. This morning I turned the car on and it would start up as usual then immediately shut off. The headlights, car radio, wipers, all work fine so I know the battery is fine (especially when it was just replaced).

I know carfax isn't the greatest indicator, but this car had a very clean report with only 1 previous owner.

I unfortunately with my crappy job and going to school full time did not opt for a full coverage warranty, just the bare bones. I really hope this repair if needed will not gouge me badly. Any help would be much appreciated. Thank you
 

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The engine actually remained on when I got home so I quickly drove it to autozone to get codes. It read off 7 different ones all relating to my transmission. I assume this is going to be bad. The guy told me it could be faulty sensors, but the car seems to be driving fine with no issues except for that small hiccup this morning. I can't get the car into the dealership until next Tuesday :(
 

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hi rikachan225 welcome to the forum! its good you have an appointment. the best really is to wait and see what they say. one of the problems is we really need to know what codes the car was showing in order to give you some help. it could be as simple as the transmission range sensor going bad. what were you doing when you noticed the loss of power? driving at speed, accelerating, sitting at idle? ok about the starting and shutting off, you mentioned its been extremely cold out. i know there was a problem with the ecu's of certain years where the car would not start or would start and shut off in extreme cold. one of the chips inside wont work under cold temps. i think they will either replace or reprogram the ecu. let us know. any other questions just ask!
 

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Hi 7-even and thank you for the warm welcome! Yeah some of the codes were all relating to the transmission range sensor. I actually left the car in a friends warm garage and left the codes in the glove box, but I can get them tomorrow, although one code P0705 is one that I remembered regarding the sensor. The odd part is how each ticket said Ford codes, GM codes, etc. I don't think I saw one ticket that actually said Suzuki on it.

I know for sure that one of the tickets for the engine shutdown was relating to the throttle actuator control forcing a shutdown because the ecm had detected an incorrect circuit of the TAC motor or something of that sort.

Not sure if this makes sense, but some of the other tickets read like the TAC motor is stuck open or closed and forced limited power. Another one said the TPS sensor does not agree and poor circuit connection. Another one for a failed ECM and another TCM code error. I will be more accurate with it once I get my tickets tomorrow.

I drove the car all evening for hours and no problems. The power loss initially was when I reversed out of my driveway and put it into drive, once I pulled over to tighten the gas cap and started the car again it was fine. The other two times were also the same reasons but this time it corrected itself immediately and the power was back to normal (didn't even last a few seconds). The strange thing is how the check engine light would come on and then off (but stayed off and never was an issue until this morning).

Now the light is on (not blinking) and there was no loss in power this evening. Went on hills, down hills, busy traffic roads, interstate going 75+, then releasing the gas pedal to see if it slows down on it's own and it did. It just drives like a dream. No smells, no funny noises, no weird idling or vibrations, no black smoke from exhaust, etc. I also made sure to fill the tank before I called it a night just in case since it's going to be in the negatives again this weekend. I just really hope it's just a sensor issue. Thank you again for your time.
 

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So, the cel light is gone and the car drives fine when it's warmer. Anytime it's less than I would say 25 degrees or so, the car would start then the engine only would shut off. I am starting to think it is the ECU as you mentioned, but I also read that is a VERY expensive repair. Is there anything else you can suggest? Thank you.
 

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hi. i think the ecu issue gets fixed by suzuki. i dont think you need to pay for the repair as its a reprogramming issue but im not positive about that. heres the TSB

06 Model year only

CONDITION: Engine will not start MIL “ON” and DTC P0606 (Control Module Performance)
stored. (This TSB does not apply to any vehicle with extended crank time-no
start only)
CAUSE: Outside temperature below -10º C (14º F) may cause an internal ECM circuit to
malfunction. This failure will prevent start up.
CORRECTION: Replace the Engine Control Module (ECM) with a new ECM as described below.

Please note the temp this condition may occur at.
so the cold weather thing is a known problem i would just call a dealer about it.
the codes come up ford or gm because most of the codes are generic and stretch across all the different car brands. also im not sure if you noticed but most of the parts in your suzuki are labeled GM lolol it was a joint venture. from the way it sounds to me, youll still need to have it checked out, is that its the transmission range sensor and maybe the ecu freezing issue. i dont think either should be that big of a deal to fix. theres a guide on the forum about how to replace the TRS if you want to try and do it yourself. i think the part is around $60. let us know what you find out
 
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