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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 2004 Optra that has had some recent problems with overheating. While checking out my owners manual I noticed that I have a hi and low electric fan relay and fuses but only have one electric fan. I looked on the radiator and it looks like it has mounts for an electric fan but I couldn't locate any wiring. This vehicle does not have a/c so I am wondering if there are two different speeds for the single fan or I got dicked around and bought a car that is in fact suppose to have two electric fans.
 

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hi. as far as i know you should have two fans behind the radiator. maybe they were having trouble with it so they just had it removed? if i remember correctly one comes on normally to cool the radiator and the other comes on during high loads like if the ac is on. ive seem some fans going for pretty cheap. check out the online manual. it has wiring diagrams in it. should show you the routing for the wires. check and see where they might have been removed from.
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if you get lucky its a plug in connector and you could replace it it with a stock fan. now unfortunatly if it was removed they did it for a reason and by replacing the fan you might also need to fix whatever was wrong with the fan to begin with. maybe its really no big deal though. let us know what you find out. anything else just ask.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
My car is not equipped with a/c, that is what makes me wonder is they just put in a single cooling fan instead of the two and they just use the same radiator for both models. I have looked in that service manual and I can't locate Forenza or Optra. Is there a similar model I don't know about?
 

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The entire service manual is for your car. There are two motors in it, the 2.0 and 1.8. the whole manual is for the 2.0 and if there is something different for the 1.8 it's indicated by a *. Lacetti is just a different name for the reno/forenza.
 

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The non-A/C equipped models only have the one main cooling fan. You will, however have a cooling fan resistor which will be switched in series with the cooling fan to provide low speed operation. I have included a diagram with its location.
 

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Interesting... I didn't know the NON-AC models had only 1 fan.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thank you gentlemen, one less area I have to worry about. However I have found a new problem. On the drivers side of the cylinder head there seems to be something leaking out of it but the odd thing is it only loses coolant when it overheats.
 

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Well when it overheating that's when pressure would be high so that makes sense. What you need to do is see what it is that's leaking from that area, oil or coolant. Clean the area off, that will make it easier to pinpoint where the leak is and what's leaking. If it's oil it could just be a simple valve cover gasket or if it's coolant it could be your EGR gasket. Let us know what you find out
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Well, car overheats on me again today and antifreeze is flying out of it. So I grab my flashlight thinking my water pump has kicked the bucket. While looking to see where it was coming from I notice a clamp half way up what looks to be an overflow hose. How the hell did this happen? I never touched it, never had the car to a garage for any work done on it which leads me to believe I bought this car and this clamp was never at the base of the hose. So I get out the pliers and put the clamp back on and fill it back up with antifreeze and run the proper bag off it for about 20 minutes and it didn't over heat. I'm wondering if the squeeze clamp was restricting the flow causing it to over heat starving it for antifreeze? So weird!
 

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The hose also could have been leaking antifreeze under load. Glad you found it!! Hopefully that's the fix. Any other questions just ask!
 

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Discussion Starter #11
K guys, overheating problem has been solved! My new issue is getting heat with the rad cap on. It now run at a consistent heat level, right where it's suppose to run. However it is blowing out cold air when radiator cap is on, if I take it off right after I get off the hwy the coolant doesn't explode out the resvoir like you think it should, it lets out the pressure and no water comes flying out. With rad cap on all my hoses including heater hoses are hard (full of air) and when the rad cap is off I get great heat. While trying to get the air out of the system I observed the resevoir and saw no gurgling that would be indicitive of a bliwn head gasket and i'm not losing any coolant. When I start it up from cold though I do hear a gurgle coming from heater core but it does go away. Any ideas?
 

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It might be a matter of purging the air out of the system.
Start the car with the rad cap off and let it idle with the blower on high heat until the radiator fan kicks in.
Slowly add coolant as needed to top off reservoir.
 

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Well the gurgling might indicate that your heater core is no good or clogged up maybe. Wich would probably explain why your not getting heat under pressure. Check the hoses and connections make sure there nice and tight. You may need to pull out the core.
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
This is a brand new core, again lol. I've had it in for just over a month. I would think if the cooling system had any king of corrosion etc. in it I would see it in the antifreeze, no? The real baffling part is my temperature gauge stays steady while operation, no fluctuations tgat would indicate an air lock but I can take the cap off after running it for an hour and theres no guyser, the water doesn't come out of the top of the resevoir and once the caps off I get get heat. I was thinking about replacing the tad cap but if it's letting air in, shouldn't it also let the air out? These hoses are pretty filled up with air. As I am watching it now while trying to purge the air I do see these tiny air bubbles coming back up to the resevoir, not many but I do see them.
 

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ok, the way the system works is this; its a closed loop system. the overflow bottle isnt really an overflow bottle so much as an air release bottle. its at the highest point of the whole system. the reason for this is that the air will get trapped there and then released out through the cap according to, i think pressure. i dont think that coolant will come splashing out of the bottle like it would a radiator cap. ive never had this happen on mine. i still open it slowly though just in case. so, if theres a problem with any part of the system the whole thing wont work correctly. i would try replacing the cap. it sounds like it might not be releasing the air correctly. let us know what happens.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Yeah mine has always came geysing out when it is hot. So you really do think this extreme pressure is related to the cap? It's so weird, all the hoses are getting filled up with air, I can take the cap off after long periods of driving and all ya hear is the pressure being released. I have little to no heat, and I can actually stick my finger in the resevoir and the water isn't really even hot. I was also looking inspecting the cap yesterday and oddly this cap is designed to run at 17 psi, isn't that a really high pressure?
 

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The pressure release sounds about right from the surge tank (that's what our reservoir is called) - if I open my surge tank cap while the engine is hot I get an air pressure release but no coolant comes flying out - and it shouldn't unless its already overheating. As for the cap holding 17psi that also sounds normal - altho I'm not near my car to check mine right now. The purpose of creating this pressure in the cooling system is to allow it to run at higher temperatures without having the coolant boil into steam. The higher the pressure in the system, the higher the boiling point of the coolant. That's why if you open the cap when the coolant is already well past 100*C it WILL come boiling and flying out at you!

As for you only getting heat when you remove the cap - that is pretty strange. Have you ran the car from cold to completely hot (until the fans kick in several times) with the cap off to observe? Are there lots of bubbles coming up in the surge tank? Also verify you have flow in the tank as well... you should see the coolant swirling around especially when you rev up the engine. I've had a failing water pump once in my car when it would spin slower and slower as the coolant heated up (the impeller was coming loose from the main shaft). So when the coolant was not too hot it would circulate OK, but would get worse and worse the hotter it got.
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
Yes I do have good flow into the tank. I only get bubbles when the electric fan kicks in and the coolant starts to overflow. Once the car is hot I do get tiny bubbles that come into the surge tank from the water pump hose. I jut tried running the car with the cap loosend off, the hoses didn't get super hard and the higher rpm I ran it to the hotter the heat got. With the cap also slightly loosend I run at approximately half the normal operating temperature which is the needle at or just over 1/4, (normal operating temperature is just under half) . With it tight I run at normal temperature, hoses seem to get super pressurized and I get no heat (even my heater core hoses seem super hard). I also decided to say screw it this morning and stick my finger in the tank after driving the highway for and hour and it was hot but not as how as I suspected it should be. I should have also mentioned I just flushed the entire system this morning, put brand new antifreeze in it and ran the heat. While burping the car (45-60 minutes) the car produced and nice steady, even flow of good heat but another confusing thing is my heater hoses are 5/8 and 3/4. The 5/8 hose doesn't get nearly as hot as the others. My top and bottom rad hoses are both hot. Would a sticking thermostat have anything to do with this? I am just beyond the point of confused with this car.
 

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At this point I would start questioning the thermostat... you might as well try changing it as its a cheap part. This is a pretty odd case though.
 
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