Suzuki Forums banner
1 - 4 of 4 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 2003 XL7. Yesterday, all the power windows stopped working. None of the switches work (driver's side master panel or individual door switches). [Yes, I made sure the power window lock button was not depressed.] I immediately assumed a power issue since the problem is at every door/window. I pulled the 30 amp fuse from the driver's side fuse panel, but, it is OK. Does anyone know if the 2003 XL7's have a body control module that might control the power windows? Does the power daisy chain to each door from the driver's side master panel? Is there another fuse I should be looking for? Any help is greatly appreciated. The A/C compressor died last year, so I kind of need the windows to work properly.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
16,334 Posts
Based on the drawings I have, which cover up to the 2002 vehicle, and may or may not be correct for yours - the power windows are NOT controlled by the BCM and are fed from that one fuse - each door does have it's own power feed, but the ground is supplied by the master panel, and all switch circuits daisy chain through the master panel, so a failed panel can shut the system down.

Open the door and look for a blue/white wire, make sure it has 12V on it with the ignition on (that's the power feed) and make sure the black wire is grounded.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Fordem, Thanks for the quick reply and helpful guidance. I couldn't access the wires through the harness, so, I popped out the driver's side control module and took it apart. I popped off the connector and noticed that the ground wire (black) pin was a little discolored and the plastic housing looked a little melted. I clipped in my multi-meter leads and started troubleshooting. I had 12 volts at the connector pins at the end of the wire harness. I rejoined the connector to the control module and tried the windows. Nothing. I then clipped my multi-meter leads to the rigid wires leading from the back of the connector to the circuit board. 12 volts again. Ah, but this time, the windows started working. Some jiggling revealed that the pin leading to the circuit board was making intermittent contact. I then removed the circuit board from the housing. It took me a few minutes to figure out how to pop the top off the window lock button. After the board was out, I noticed that the ground pin on the circuit board did not seem soldered properly. I heated up my solder iron and gave it a small bit of solder. I re-assembled everything, checking the windows as I went along. I'm happy to report the windows are working again. I'm sure if I would have taken it to a repair shop they would have recommended a new module after hours of troubleshooting. All this cost me was time (about 1 1/2 hours). Thank you again for your help. :lol:
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
16,334 Posts
You're welcome buddy - I would have done the same - I've had my driver side control out many times - switch issues - and it eventually reached a point where it wouldn't work for more than a week or so between repairs - at that point I got a new one - OUCH!!
 
1 - 4 of 4 Posts
Top