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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi All new here
Just got my wife a surprise and it really turned into one. I got a 2003 Tracker 4dr 2 wd auto with the 2.0 engine 175000 miles. Very clean and ran great. Want to surprise her with a new car but it wont run. Here is what happened,
Bought the car from a private owner. Ran fine except for a vibration when at a stop light in gear. Drives great no issues until,
My friend wanted to help me so he washed and waxed the car, vac out interior and HOSED down the engine to clean all the dust off. After that it started for 30 seconds quit and has not ran since. I dried it out with air and sprayed WD40 on all the connections and let it sit for a day. No spark (checked coils) checked fuses IG fuse under dash and its fine.
I looked for answers and have come up with either it is bad sensor or PCM.
Can anyone help with this. I read GM book and it says crank sensor controls spark and cam sensor fuel. I did pull codes right after and got a crank sensor code and O2 sensor. That was it. The check engine light stays on all the time but it was on when I bought it. I cant believe the crank sensor went out from the water since its between engine and tranny and could not get wet.
Any help here would be great. Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks Max
I agree about water underhood. My friend was helping and was proud of the nice clean engine. I ordered a sensor and will see if that is the issue. Only other thing would be the timing chain if broken. I should be able to see that looking into the cam sensor housing without the sensor installed. If its spinning the chain is intact.
 

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If its spinning the chain is intact
Yes! ;)

Although it IS possible to have the chain "skip" and continue CPS rotation efforts. Less likely though.
 

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If the check engine light is on, there is a code set, get a code reader and find out what it is - make a note of it, disconnect the battery to clear the codes, and then, with the reader connected, crank the engine and see if any more codes show up.

A defective cam sensor that is preventing the engine from starting should set a code, which may clear when the ignition is switched off.

Do NOT crank the engine with the cam sensor removed, or you will need to get the vehicle to a dealer to get the timing set correctly - mark the sensor position before removal and try to get the replacement in as close to the original position as you can.

Usually hosing the engine down will not cause a problem, pressure washing it, however, is an entirely different matter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Hi fordem
I was thinking if I remove only the sensor not the housing that should not affect the timing. The sensor only goes in one way with no adjustment. When running the cam turns the cog on the sensor housing which turns the notched rotor inside the housing. The sensor picks up this rotation regardless of position of the rotor. If I removed the housing I would need to re-time the engine. Of course this is my understanding of the CMP if I am wrong please let me know. I certainly do not want to cause myself more trouble.
 

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Do NOT crank the engine with the cam sensor removed, or you will need to get the vehicle to a dealer to get the timing set correctly - mark the sensor position before removal and try to get the replacement in as close to the original position as you can.
The CPS has an off-set dog drive which allows correct indexing / re-installation if entirely removed. It is barely visible in the attached photo. That coupled with marking the relative positioning of the timing bolt / slot will render near perfect re-installation. ;)

Replacing the whole CPS assy with another unit (or disturbing the original) will necessitate a timing re-check though. If only the black sensor module is removed, you should be OK.

 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
View attachment 33978
Here is the sensor minus housing as you can see it has one mount hole with no adjustment. If I only replace the sensor there should be no need for timing.
From what I can see there is only one way to install and there is no adjustment as long as I do not remove the housing.
Sound Right?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Its Running

Heah all well its running and it was the cam sensor. Started right up. I still have a couple issues maybe someone can help with. First I have a wire that in the area of the O2 sensor plugs. It seems that it had an end but its rotted or burned off and now unhooked. I took a pic and will put it here and see if anyone can tell me where its supposed to be connected.
[/ATTACH]

Not the best pics but its a black wire with heat resisit insulation near the end. Took two diff angles tried to get it where it could be seen. The end had a eye or some other type of connector but its rotted off so its now unhooked. Its right next to the O2 sensor connector and I am trying to see what its for and where I should connect it.
If anyone knows let me know. I am getting a low heat O2 code sensor 1 bank 1 and this wire may be the cause.

Thanks
 

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Kinda' hard to make out.

Does your oil light work? :huh:
 

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Does your oil pressure light come on when you turn the key before you start the engine?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Max the second pic is better look at the wire that runs left to right in front of the O2 sensor thats the wire I just laid it out to get the pic.


fordem... yes the oil light lights with the turn of the key to on. The connector seems to have been an eye connector which leads me to think it may be a ground but I dont really know.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Guys the wire was for the oil pressure sender. Removed the guard and walla there it was the sender without a wire. This thread has fulfilled the need. I am posting a whole new set of issues I hope you guys can help.
Thanks for helping I am finally getting somewhere with this.
 

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Two people asked you if the oil light works - your answer was yes.
 

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Congrats! ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
fordem I was asked if the oil light came on with ign key turned on and engine off and it did. I cant explain why but it did. It was because of your mentioning that I continued to look and found the sender. Thanks for bringing it to my attention. This car is loaded with issues and maybe if/when I figure them out might answer the question why the oil light lit with no wire connected to it. I am still at it and with you guys help we will get it figured out I am sure.
 

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light lit with no wire connected to it.
Because the oil light works (completes the circuit) when that (then suspected) wire is shorted to ground, by design. That's why I asked about the light working properly or not. ;)
 
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