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112,000 miles timing chains are noisy at idle. Going to instal new chains and tensioners, but why does shop manual say to remove oil pan and oil pick-up pipe to do this job? Is there a problem with clearance to get chain off/on between crankshaft sprocket and front of oil pan? Any hints/tips advice/ on doing this work welcome.
Are any of the $120 aftermarket chain/tensioner replacement kits OK or should I stay with OEM parts? (Not going for the $65 made in China stuff).:huh:
 

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I'm going to be undertaking this exact same project very soon...I have 133k on my 03 tracker with the 2.0 and it's getting rather noisy at idle as well. I also need to replace my oil pan due to rust...from my understanding, the oil pan does not need to come off during timing chain replacement...there are two bolts that go through the oil pan into the cover that must be removed but other than that you're ok (i think). I'm sure max will chime in soon to support or refute this...there's a good sticky thread at the top of this forum on the timing chain replacement!

I bought an aftermarket timing chain set at rockauto.com from DNJ engine components for about $140. Hopefully it's good quality stuff...comes with a one year warranty.
 

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And you are correct with ref to the Service Manual.

6A4-22 ENGINE MECHANICAL (J20 ENGINE)
TIMING CHAIN COVER

REMOVAL
1) Disconnect negative cable at battery.
2) Drain engine oil.
3) Drain coolant.
4) Remove oil pan and oil pump strainer.
Refer to item “OIL PAN AND OIL PUMP STRAINER” in this
section for removal.
5) Remove cylinder head cover.
Refer to item “CYLINDER HEAD COVER” in this section for removal.
6) Remove water bypass pipe and bypass hose No.2.
7) Remove cooling fan and fan shroud referring to Section 6B.
And then remove cooling fan belt and cooling fan pulley.
8) Remove generator belt by turning generator belt tensioner
center bolt clockwise to loosen tension of generator belt. Refer
to Section 6H for removal.
9) Remove water pump pulley.
10) Remove generator belt tensioner.

I believe it is to ensure a better seal of the disrupted oil pan gasketing / to cover and block, and to clean out the pan of any coolant and debris associated with working the front timing location. Folks have worked around this as you will see in the "sticky" Ref.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
2003,2.0L Vitara auto trans 4WD Timing chains

Many thanks for all the replies and useful info. Looks like the oil pan can stay in place for this job.::D
 

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Make the first step after you remove the front cover to stuff a rag into the opening leading in to the oil pan - it will prevent anything you drop (like the woodruff key) from falling into the pan.
 

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I just did this job on my 2.0 a few months ago. I'll add that removing the radiator makes life a little easier. If you already have the coolant drained and the clutch fan removed, it only takes a minute to pop off the hoses and remove the 2 bolts that secure the rad. This gives you a better line of sight when trying to line up the crank sprocket. As well as freeing up some room the remove the crank pulley. And speaking of the crank pulley, this is usually the only tough part of the whole job. The bolt is torqued to something like 90 ft/lbs and there is no room for an impact gun. So I bought one of these specifically for this job...

It worked perfect.

No need to remove the oil pan. Just be sure to clean the surface well so you're form-a-gasket sticks and seals. For that I used permatex copper.

Oh, and I used the same rockauto kit you have, with no problems to speak of. It should be noted that the link colors on the crank chain are reversed from what the manual tells you. (Just like every other aftermarket brand chain kit) Just remember you need to have 24 links between the colors on the left side, and 23 on the right. When you get to this step, you'll know what I mean. ;)
 
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