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Hello I'm having issues with my 2002 Suzuki Ignis (Manual Unleaded) The problem is unpredictable stuttering/stalling engine PLEASE HELP
This has been going on for quite some time now. We once had a problem with the engine continuously stalling while trying to start and changed the sensors. The current problem: for no apparent reason the engine starts to shudder/the revs drop and if you don't pump the accelerator it stalls. If it happens when you start the engine it just shudders and stalls. This is most common when starting cold, but can also happen at any random time - hot/cold/low speed/high speed. If it happens while you're driving along, the car keeps going but it loses power and it feels like it's trying to pull a heavy load but can't manage it. Then all of a sudden, it seems like a blockage clears and full engine power returns and it takes off like a rocket. It just happens at random and then it does not happen for a long time then for no apparent reason it starts again. Some days it'll happen every time I use the car, and other days/weeks there's no problem at all. I have used e10 & unleaded for durations of time just to see if it would change but It still happend, unpredictable & without warning.
I have some knowledge of cars but its very small but I do have a partner that would be able to test suggestions. He has changed all the sensors the fuel pump and the regulator, he check the injectors and use a kit to freshen it up. The computer diagnostics test doesn't show any problem at all.
Any help would be greatly appreciated. Many Thanks Deeliellah.
 

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@Deeliellah

You need to stop throwing parts at that vehicle, it will cost you a fortune trying to eradicate the problem..

Now we need to start the diagnostics..Your issue is not the same as the OP, theirs is running on LPG..that is why I asked you to start your own thread..

Next, if you do not have the skills and equipment, look for a qualified diagnostician, not a mechanic.. Be prepared to have them spend time with the vehicle as this is an intermittent problem and they are the most difficult to rectify..

Start recording ALL the misbehavior's with the type of driving, weather, duration of trip, accessories in use (lights, A/C, radio), fuel level....describe in detail what happens when the problem arises, remember we cannot see the vehicle so be very precise...
 

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I suggest finding a wrecker in your area that has an Ignis or first Jimny with same engine and change the coils. You probably have the M13A engine, but there is also a M15A which is totally different. The engine type is on the blue plate in engine bay in clear letters.
 

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I suggest finding a wrecker in your area that has an Ignis or first Jimny with same engine and change the coils.
Great advice, however I have never seen the Lazareth syndrome on coils, they do not resurrect themselves...
 

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Discussion Starter #6
There is a couple of wreckers here in Bundy I can see if they have and Jimny to get parts from to see if that changes if not I'll buy them new
 

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There is a couple of wreckers here in Bundy I can see if they have and Jimny to get parts from to see if that changes if not I'll buy them new
There is no need for me to be here, you seem content to continue guessing and throwing parts at it, Good luck...
 

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I had someone look at the diagnostics and they could not find anything and saw nothing wrong. further more quite literally when it happens it happens at all times and types of weather. and the duration is some times short some times it take 30 second and It has happened once where it was almost a minute. I just coasted along on the highway lucky enough that no one was behind me.
 

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There is a couple of wreckers here in Bundy I can see if they have and Jimny to get parts from to see if that changes if not I'll buy them new
If you find something, explain to the wrecker your not sure and would like to try before you buy, if possible. There is two, so swap one at a time. It may not be this, so a know good used one is worth a try. Both sides can be swapped by changing the long/short plug lead.
97104
 

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When it happens next time, switch off ignition switch whilst coasting in gear, one click only, then on again after 1 second and see if it comes good straight away. Remember, one click only to keep steering unlocked and one click only back on not to activate the starter motor.
 

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Good luck in the guessing, and money wasting.
even a dying coil pack will throw a misfire code


Think about it......
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Good luck in the guessing, and money wasting.
even a dying coil pack will throw a misfire code


Think about it......
Thats why we are looking for a computer just saying my car is not brand new it is a used, used, used car.
 

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Exactly why you should be diagnosing not just tossing money at it and hoping, but since you seem to know what you're doing, you carry on.
 

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Exactly why you should be diagnosing not just tossing money at it and hoping, but since you seem to know what you're doing, you carry on.
look here get off it should not matter as you clearly cant read what I have wrote i have thrown money at diagnostics and what did that bring no answers. so obviously that is not going to help but thanks for all you input p.s that was before we did change and do the other stuff to the car to resolve the issue. It does not register any diagnostic problem.
 

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You need to talk to a diagnostician not a mechanic. Just because it doesnt register a code doesnt mean you cant work out what's wrong.

A lot of your symptoms can be explained by a sudden loss of power due to a bad connection. A single bump in the road can cause a momentary loss of power to a ecm, or a power supply relay contact can bounce, that will shut the car down, and it will restart immediately. Your car is 18 years old and parts do age. Connections go bad, relay contacts start to corrode.

Mechanics read codes and change parts based on codes, or they guess what it might be if there's no code and change things, like fuel pump, coil packs etc and hope they find the right bit before they replace the whole car.

A diagnostician analyses the symptoms, what was happening when it failed and then looks at where the issue could be.

Power loss will not show a code, this is why a log book of what you were doing, speed, road conditions, did you turn a corner 20 seconds before etc are all critical as part of the diagnostic process.
 

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Your understanding of diagnostics is a little skewed, taking it to a mechanic does not constitute diagnostics if they just plug in a scanner and rely on the ECU telling them what to replace.. Most mechanics fall into this category...

Diagnostics is a full understanding of the vehicle systems and the skill and equipment to analyze and collect quantifiable data.. leading to the correct system repair..regardless of age (this is an excuse for lack of skill)
 
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