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I would expect there to be a J1962 connector under the dash to take a diagnostic reader, whether or not the reader you have can communicate with a used JDM vehicle is another matter altogether.
 

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The DA62 &63 series were produced during the changeover period from OBDI to OBDII and may or may not have a scan tool receptacle. Mine did not have and a friend down the street did have one. As I stated before, be so very careful messing with the connectors as you may ruin your ECM in the process. I don't know the meter you mentioned so am of no help there. You have verified the ignition, now if you can verify the injectors are working (clicking & feel), verify that the injectors have 12VDC and a proper signal of when to fire, then you are back to the fuel supply issue which is where I still feel you will find the problem.

Fred
 

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Fred if I'm not mistaken your Carry was a typical Philippines RHD/LHD conversion, and if I'm right on that, I suspect your missing connector may have gone astray during the conversion. I know of only one Suzuki OBDI vehicle that didn't have the ability to hook up an OBD reader, and on that model the connector was actually fitted, the single wire that should have gone to the ECU, disappeared into the harness and never reached the ECU.

I have a Launch X431 adapter that I've plugged into quite a few Suzukis, both JDM and export models, both OBDI & OBDII and it's communicated with every Suzuki it's been connected to - I've never tried scanning a Carry, simply because the Carrys that we got, which by the way were all export models, all had carburettors.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Thanks guys for your comments. I do have 12+V power to the injectors. By any chance do one of you know the location of the fuse for the injectors? I found a fuse that was blown in the fuse box next to the battery. It was the middle one between the 3 fuses labels 20A-20A-15A. But I tested the injector without a fuse in the middle slot and I had power. So wondering what that powers. So if I have 12V power at the injectors, does that mean that the ECM is working? So the next question would be if it is sending a signal to the injectors to fire. I tried listening to the injectors clicking, but I didn't hear anything. To much noise with the starter turning over. So if it should be loud, then they aren't firing?
In regards to the OBD11 plug, do you know where it should be located. I looked this morning and couldn't find anything. This truck is customized for off road and the previous owner had stripped it clean. So he may have tucked it up out of reach. And if I get a reading, how do I find out the meaning of the code it would show
Jim
 

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Fordem, Correct, Over the years I owned the carry, I found multiple issues because of the conversion. It did have the test spot in the fuse & relay box under the seat so I could possibly get codes. I never had the need to try it though so don't know if it was still connected or not.

Jim, If you found the manual I referred to, you will see it is a good crash course on EFI as used by Suzuki.
Pages 12 & 15 have basic diagrams of the electric feed to the injectors. You said you have 12V at the injectors so the fuse, relay, & wiring should be good. You should read 12V on both terminals which would show the internal coil is good. Disconnect the terminal from the injector, then with a jumper wire feed one terminal of the injector 12V and with another jumper wire touch the other terminal to ground, this will do what the ECM does to activate the injector without the starter noise and you should be able to feel & hear it. This will not prove or disprove the injector is not plugged but will show the integrity of the electrical part. As fordem mentioned, can you find & use a noid light, this would confirm or not that the ECM is controlling the injector or not. If you can't get or use a noid light you may try the following procedure. Disconnect the connector from the injector, then using jumper wires and whatever else is necessary connect a test light between the terminals in the connector on the wire end from the computer. Then crank the engine and you should see the test light blink each time the ECM calls for the injector to be activated. Search "noid light" for info. There are even some utubes showing how to make one using a dash light bulb, but using a test light does the same thing. There is one by Big Dog 50001 automotive which shows what I have told you.

Fred

Note that I only check in once each day during my morning which should be your evening.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Hey Fred,
I did copy the manual you described, and it is chock full of info. But is not casual reading. I got a 12V light and hooked it to the injector wiring and it sparked on and off when I turned the ignition. I also reinstalled the fuel pump tested the pressure again. It is actually going up to 46 psi, so a little high as per the gauge, but drops off immediately after turning off the ignition. It drops to 20 psi immediately and then runs to 0 in maybe 20 seconds. So I am going to assume it is not the ECU and it is the fuel pump. Of course it could be one of the other sensors that control the ECU, but then I am assuming the ECU wouldn't send a signal. Does that sound correct? I am going to order the pump from an outfit that sells used parts in Japan. Be Forward Auto Parts. Ever hear of them? So thanks so much getting me to this spot. I have sure learned a lot. If there is a possibility that something else could be the problem, please advise.
Thanks
Jim
 

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Have heard of them but have not done any business with them, so know nothing about their operation. My go-to is megazip but they only sell new parts. Highly recommend them if you have need for new stuff. I have done several transactions with them and am very well satisfied with what they do. They do have excellent parts diagrams if you have the need to locate things or find a # or such. Type in your vin in the search box and it should come up with the right parts diagrams for your vehicle. In case you don't know, your vin should be stamped into the metal under the seat and you may also find a sticker on the back vertical of the cab door frame.

Just from experience, I do feel you are going in the right direction.

Sometime past you asked about where to plug in a scan tool. The info I have shows it to be at the lower edge of the dash panel next to the hood release pull tab. As I stated, mine did not have one but my friend down the street does have it.

Fred
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Hey Fred, Here is an update on getting my truck running. I ordered a used fuel pump, as everything else seemed to work. It arrived late last week and I have installed it. It is holding the pressure and seems to be working. It took quite a while to start, so I am assuming that is air in the fuel line? But I got it running, but I haven't reinstalled the fuel tank, yet, so haven't taken it for a test run. The fuel line that comes from the frame to the tank is really weird hard plastic with a wedge type of connector at each end, that I still can't figure out how to open and close. At any rate, I had to make some splices in the line and am thinking that may be the reason I am having trouble still starting? I am getting a new fuel line tomorrow so that it'll be one continuous piece from the tank to the fuel rail steel line. Right now I have like 6 connections, so with one piece I will have 2. I hope that is the problem with starting. So I'll make one more post once I am complete. Thanks for all your help and support. Oh, as a side benefit, I am learning a lot about auto mechanics, which I have spent my life staying away from. I rather enjoy wrenches. Jim
 

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I should have warned you about the fuel line connections but I had forgot about them. I studied them for awhile and tried to use a small screwdriver but just does not seem to be able to unlock. There is a special tool used to remove them. There are 2 sizes and the tool is a little double ended affair about 6 inches long that accomodates both sizes. The tool is used on a lot of vehicles these days, As I remember, the same tool is used on some Fords and maybe some other domestics as well as quite a number of jap vehicles. I bought one from shopee, I think the cost was less than 2 dollars. You just push it in the provided area between the connection parts and it will slip apart. You merely push the connection parts together to reconnect (after making sure it is free of any dirt or other stuff).

Seems as if you are headed in the correct direction and hopefully after properly replacing the line you will obtain satisfactory results.

If you have downloaded the manual you should be able to study it to understand the Suzuki EFI system. As I mentioned earlier it is a good crash course on EFI as used by Suzuki. You mentioned you downloaded the K6A manual from Jacobson so you should have a good basis to go from.

Good for you that you enjoy learning about these type things cause if you don't you will be forever at the mercy of someone else and overall it is best to be as self-supporting as possible. Most of my working years were as a Diesel & Hydraulic Mechanic on a wide variety of equipment & vehicles and so every day seemed to be a learning process. I retired in 2001 and now only do enough to keep my own in running condition.

Fred
 
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