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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 2002 Suzuki Carry pick DA62T with a K6A fuel injected engine. The power has gradually been getting weaker over the last month and became a little more difficult to start. Now it won't start. I have very little mechanical experience and don't know were to start trouble shooting. I live off grid on an island near Campbell River BC. We have no ferry service, so to take it in to fix, I have to barge it to Vancouver Island. So I will fix in place. This is one of 2 Carry trucks I have. They are both customized with lifts, quad tires, etc and never go out of 4x4 low. I live on a mountain side.
Any advise very appreciated.
Jim
 

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Seems as if your fuel system has lost pressure. The K6A in DA62T & DA62V vehicles is a returnless system meaning there is only one fuel line from tank unit to fuel rail. The fuel pump, fuel filter, fuel pressure regulator, and the fuel gauge sender are all in one unit mounted in the fuel tank. If your symptoms had suddenly appeared, one would think the power supply to the pump had been interrupted or that you had lost spark, but since you state the problem has gradually increased, I would suggest that your pump has gradually deteriorated until there is no output or the pressure regulator has quit functioning. Please read below and consider your options.

My experience - 2002 DA62V with K6A. Note that I am a retired American living in the Philippines and have no scan tool or gauges anymore as I sold out when I moved here, so what I do is only based on past experience. Mine had developed the same symptoms as you describe, so I assumed that I still had good ignition & spark and that I was losing fuel pressure. Dropped the tank & pulled the fuel tank unit. Found the sock type filter had disintegrated and disappeared. Guessing that the fine mesh of the sock filter had been injested into the pump and possibly the pressure regulator as well, I bought both from megazip and replaced them in the tank unit(note that the new fuel pump includes a new filter on its intake side). Problem solved and back to full power and good performance again.

Please be aware that I came to this diagnosis only from many years of past experience as a fleet mechanic. I would recommend that you diagnose utilizing proper gauges & scan tool if you have them available. I do what I have to do for my own vehicle. I only give this as It seems you may be in kind of the same situation that I am, kind of out there on your own.

Fred
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hey Fred,
Thanks for the info. I spoke with the guys I buy my parts from in Victoria, BC and he suggested I disconnect the fuel line at the engine and turn on the ignition to see if it was pumping. I did this and first disconnected at the line into the fuel injector (?? where a carburetor should be, which I have 0 experience with) and here was fuel pumping. I then went to the intake manifold to see if gas came out when I turned on the ignition, but nothing came out. So not sure what to do next. Any more suggestions. I hope you can go another round or two with me on this.
Thanks
jim
 

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Hey Fred,
Thanks for the info. I spoke with the guys I buy my parts from in Victoria, BC and he suggested I disconnect the fuel line at the engine and turn on the ignition to see if it was pumping. I did this and first disconnected at the line into the fuel injector (?? where a carburetor should be, which I have 0 experience with) and here was fuel pumping. I then went to the intake manifold to see if gas came out when I turned on the ignition, but nothing came out. So not sure what to do next. Any more suggestions. I hope you can go another round or two with me on this.
Thanks
jim
Just having fuel flow is not enough, you need to confirm fuel pressure using a gauge.
 

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Ok. Ill see if my neighbor has one. would I check the prressure before it goes into the fuel injection or at the end of the manifold line?
Thanks
Jim
Check at the fuel rail where the main line from the pump connects. Better to check with everything hooked up, but a line pressure check is a good starting point.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
hey Fred,
I checked the pressure and it is 42 psi coming out of the pump. So it goes from the pump to some kind of block on the driver side of the engine. From there it goes to the fuel intake manifold, which is getting nothing. I am not sure what the pressure should be.
Jim
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Hey Fred,
Here is a little more info. I disconnected the fuel line from the pump and put a gauge on it. And it was 42 psi. But when the pump shut off, it went right to 0. Should the pump be holding the pressure? Is 42 psi high enough?
Jim
 

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42 is ideal pressure. It should hold that pressure when you shut it off for quite awhile, and then should gradually bleed off, should not immediately drop to 0 so the pressure regulator may not be holding and/or may be leaking down through a worn pump. I do not understand the block on the side of the engine you speak of. The fuel line should be direct from the fuel tank unit to the injector rail on top of the engine. Does this block look like it may be some sort of anti-theft aftermarket thing that someone has installed or are you actually referring to the injector rail? As I remember, the injector rail is square and about 10 inches long, mounted to the block or intake manifold with 2 bolts which hold it and the 3 injectors to the intake manifold. Note that I no longer have possession of this vehicle so I can't go look at it.

Fred
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks Fred for sticking with this. I really know nothing about engines, especially fuel injected. But I am learning fast. So what I was trying to identify is the Throttle Body and the intake manifold. I downloaded the a manual by Jacobsen I found on another site. Now I have a much better idea of what I am talking about. So it is getting gas, but isn't holding pressure. I guess I should check the spark to see if it is getting ignition? If it is, then I'll drop the fuel tank and inspect the pump. Could there be any other electrical cut offs I am not identifying? This engine actually looks pretty simple. Just not a lot of info on it.
Thanks again
Jim
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Hey Frank,
I pulled out my spark plugs and tested them to see if they spark. They are fine. All three spark.
Dropped the fuel tank and pulled out the pump. So what would I be looking for. In the morning I will go pull out the pump and test it. I know it runs, but maybe it is trashed. If you have anything specific I need to look for, please advise.
thanks
Jim
 

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Search for "Haulster Police Vehicle Model 898487" and download the manual. It is for the previous model F6A suzuki engine but has a section on troubleshooting the EFI which should prove invaluable to you. The system is very similiar and as I recall the main difference is that the pump and filter is external to the tank whereas yours is internal and the fuel regulator is somewhat different as it does not compensate but remains constant pressure, but the principle is the same. Not being 'hands on' is so hard to try to diagnose problems as some is intuition of what to do. Have you checked the injectors to see/hear if they are functioning? I am only guessing , but kind of feel the injectors are working and your problem remains with the pump/regulator combination because you said it will not hold the pressure for a time but bleeds off immediately. Is the sock filter still intact? The tank unit can be disassembled into individual units (pump, regulator, gauge parts) but I don't know if you can go any further in as I just replaced those units in mine and disposed of the old parts.

Fred
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thanks Fred,
I pulled the fuel pump apart and tested the motor. It started and stopped fine with no weird motor noise, so now I am thinking the only thing I haven't checked was the fuel injector power source. Any idea how the injectors get power and where that would be? Like a fuse or relay?
Thanks
Jim
 

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Should have 2 wires at the plug in of each injector. 1 wire should be at 12VDC when the ignition is on and the other is the trigger which is grounded by the ECM when it is called to open. You should hear a click & feel it when you activate the injector. To test, first unplug the connector and use jumper wires to feed 12V to the injector and activate it by touching a ground wire to the other terminal. I don't recall if there is a separate fuse for the injectors or not. See if you can find a fuse marked FI. There is also a small filter located in the inlet port of the injectors which could be possibly plugged, but would be a bit strange if they all clogged at the same time to cause a no-start.

Was your intake sock-type filter intact and still attached to the pump?

Fred
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Yes, the sock and pump all looked brand new. I pulled the pump from the assembly and tested it to make sure the pump sounded good. It hummed nicely. No hesitation. I don't know about the pressure in the fuel line going down when the pump is off.
So I am left with just the fuel injection system. Of course, there is very little info on how it is hooked up electrically. The only decent videos are all in Philippine. So I watched so many videos hoping to string together what to do. What I want to know is first if the injectors are getting power. I agree that a plugged line would not effect all the injectors, unless it is between the fuel rail and the rubber fuel line. There is a section of steel line between those 2 parts. So I am thinking it may be a fuse, if there is one that controls all 3 injectors. Is there some kind of control module that operates the injectors. Something must be controlling there injection speed. It is just so hard to find definitive information. Thanks again for keeping me on track.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
You said above that the 12V to the injectors is always powered if the ignition is on, Correct? That the ground being engaged at the ECM (so it does have an ECM, but where and How do I test it), then if I take the injector electrical wires and ground the ground wire, a volt meter should tell me if the injector is getting power. Is this correct? If so, I'll try that in the morning.
Thanks
Jim
 

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Did you download & read the manual for the Haulster I previously mentioned? It has sections explaining the operation of the EFI systems and other sections on troubleshooting. There are also some basic electrical diagrams concerning the injector circuit which will explain what I have been telling you how to check. There is a basic overview diagram on page 12 and 15. The engine control section begins on page 83 and is very detailed in explaining. You should find the ECM tucked up next to and outboard of the air filter box securely mounted to the side rail of the body/frame under the seat. Please read all the cautions and be aware of trying to test the ECM as you could inadvertently destroy it while testing if you don't adhere to all the cautions.

Fred
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
The manual I found I yesterday was different than the one you just described. I just checked again and found a totally different manual that is all about the F6A engine. I think that is the one you are describing as there is lot of text around the pages you described. I will go over it tomorrow morning. Thanks for telling me the location of the EMC. I just want to make sure the plugs are in place. I found a site for used truck parts in Japan. Much cheaper than new but probably quite used given the ages shown. But I am thinking of ordering a new fuel pump and EMC. I put a wrench extension on a injectors and turned the ignition over to hear a tapping. This was a suggestion I got from a friend. Didn't hear anything. This should tell me if it is getting power. He is a kind of mechanic and is coming over tomorrow to help me diagnose. But I am thinking it is electrical, just because it is getting fuel, and has a spark and now I not hearing the injectors tapping. Any suggestions. Maybe if you can check in I may have some more info.
Most of the important YouTube sites on these vehicles are all from the Philippines. But they are all in Pilipino.
Thanks
Jim
 

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Have you ever heard of a noid light? If you haven't, do a google search, it's a light that you plug into the injector connector (in place of the injector) to see if it's getting the drive pulses from the ECM, it doesn't tell you if the injector is working, but it well tell you if the ECM is trying to fire the injector(s).

In the US you should be able to rent a noid light kit from the local autoparts chian, I'm not certain if you can do the same in Canada
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Hey Fred and fordem,
Thanks again for joining me in this journey of discovery. Does anyone know were I can hook up a OBD meter? There is supposed to be a plug somewhere under the dash near the steering wheel) to hook this unit up to (an OBD11/EOBD meter by RioRand). Presumably, it will give me a signal of what the problem is. Is this correct? Or am I chasing a rabbit down a hole on this path.
Fred, I found the ECM just under the air intake. Do you think I could hook this meter up to it and it would give me information that I can then get interpretation on from this site?
Jim
 
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