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I just bought a 2002 Grand Vitara Limited with 140k miles for my sons first car. Very clean everything worked great for ~2k miles and then the trans quit - no reverse, D, and OD was some odd range. Trans shop pulled the pan and said direct clutch is not engaging so trans needs to come out. What a brutal job. I have worked on a lot of cars but none that hated me as much as this one. EVERYTHING is a fight. I have the exhaust off and diffs out. Could not see how to get torque converter bolts out so I pulled the front diff. The pinion on it is hard to turn anyway so it probably has problems. PS driveshaft would not come out so I had to remove a bunch more stuff to get it out with the driveshaft still in. Finally got the drive shaft out by pounding a cold chisel in the gap. Brutal but I did not see any other option. Anyhow, now I need to know how to the the other shaft out so I can get the carrier out. So I would like help there and I would also like to know how to get the trans out the rest of the way. I plan on lowering the rear and using an extension to get the top bolts. Torque converter bolts look doable but a total PITA.

I not a professional mechanic but I have done a lot of work on cars and never been this frustrated. I am about to walk away from this and just eat what I have into it and get him something else. I was loaning him the money for this but I am afraid I will get to eat most of it since I am the one that checked it out etc. The only things stopping me are - 1. I hate to give up. 2. It is in GREAT shape everywhere else. Nice paint, no holes in the seats. Underneath looks untouched excep for a little rust. good tires, really a shame to just dump it. Hopefully you all can help me out.

Thanks!
 

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I dont know if you found it, but theres a downloadable factory service manual in the FAQ thread.

Let me take a whack at your question. I think you're referring to the front CV axles. The (USA) passenger side has an internal snap ring which you probably just destroyed, which is ok, make sure to fish out the bits and replace it with a new one on reinstallation. Theres a specific tool that makes this job easier and if used properly you can even save the snap ring.

The driver side doesn't have this ring. Unbolts and drops out.

Given your level of effort, I would double check the transmission diagnostic section in the manual. Good luck.
 

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I dont know if you found it, but theres a downloadable factory service manual in the FAQ thread.

Let me take a whack at your question. I think you're referring to the front CV axles. The (USA) passenger side has an internal snap ring which you probably just destroyed, which is ok, make sure to fish out the bits and replace it with a new one on reinstallation. Theres a specific tool that makes this job easier and if used properly you can even save the snap ring.

The driver side doesn't have this ring. Unbolts and drops out.

Given your level of effort, I would double check the transmission diagnostic section in the manual. Good luck.
I got the DS driveshaft out of the housing as well. It took the same technique as the PS but a little less force and the ring survived. That allowed me to pull the carrier and it looks great except on of the adjusters had bent the holding pawl and tightened itself. I think that bearing is toast. Not sure what caused that, if it would have been run without oil or abused the rest of the parts would show it and they look new.

I downloaded that manual awhile ago went through the diagnostics before taking it to the trans shop. He went through it as well and determined it has to come out. Manual just said things like - replace main clutch.
 

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Maybe I'm not understanding your project, I apologize. On the D side, the inner cv joint fastens to a 3 bolt flange on the front differential shaft. Theres no inner snap ring on the driver side - not on mine anyway. But you got it out so you're on your way.
 

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Oh I see, you're referring to the rear axle shafts! Sorry, when you mentioned the chisel method I thought you were referring to the knuckle busting process of pulling the passenger cv axle.
 

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I wish that you had come to us sooner. We could have saved you some pain and suffering. :(

At a minimum, there are existing threads sourced from the FAQ section that discuss engine and trans removal. In your case the need to NOT have to pull apart the front axle assy on 4WD equipped Vitara's (only loosen the housing from the mounting system and roll / drop / hang it, leaving the CV shafting attached), to gain additional fastener accessibility.


One example:

And if you can use a good low mileage auto trans removed from a 2000 GV Limited 2WD, let me. know.



And welcome aboard Reno dude! :)
 

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Oh I see, you're referring to the rear axle shafts! Sorry, when you mentioned the chisel method I thought you were referring to the knuckle busting process of pulling the passenger cv axle.
Umm...one of us is confused. :unsure:
 

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Oh I see, you're referring to the rear axle shafts! Sorry, when you mentioned the chisel method I thought you were referring to the knuckle busting process of pulling the passenger cv axle.
No I am on the front, I guess the appropriate name for it is half shaft? It is in the DS side of the housing. Has to come out to get the carrier out.
 

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I wish that you had come to us sooner. We could have saved you some pain and suffering. :(

At a minimum, there are existing threads sourced from the FAQ section that discuss engine and trans removal. In your case the need to NOT have to pull apart the front axle assy on 4WD equipped Vitara's (only loosen the housing from the mounting system and roll / drop / hang it, leaving the CV shafting attached), to gain additional fastener accessibility.


One example:

And if you can use a good low mileage auto trans removed from a 2000 GV Limited 2WD, let me. know.



And welcome aboard Reno dude! :)
Thanks! I would be interested if it can work with a 4WD if I can put my extension housing and XFER case on it. What do you think it would cost to get it to Reno? Right now I am looking at ~$400 for one with 72k on it with case.

In regards to the Diff, it had to come out anyway. PS bearing must be shot, very hard to turn.

I will give the FAQ a deeper look but those TC bolts are tough. I can get a wobble socket on them but they are so tight it is spinning off. Impact is not doing it either. This thing does not seem to be designed to come apart.
 

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I'll send you a private message (conversation) with ref to the trans. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I'll send you a private message (conversation) with ref to the trans. ;)
Going through your swap thread now. I see what you were talking about, should have popped the shaft first. I wondered about that but it made no sense that that would be an issue. Half shaft was much harder than they implied to get out as well. Manual says tap with plastic hammer. I whacked on it with a 2X4 and sledge and it laughed at me. The cold chisel was not so funny.

Really glad I had a lift, if this was on the ground I would have twisted off.

One other question - is there anywhere you can get those little chrome center caps? Mine is missing one.
 

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Post a pic. I have aftermarket rims and besides that you may have some optional design alloy rims on the 'Limited' model.
 

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Googled this up. Is it like yours?


If so, this might be your lucky day! :)


Better yet!

Or potentially this Arizona source, but call / verify it is as yours style wise...
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Better yet!

Or potentially this Arizona source, but call / verify it is as yours style...
Yep that's it! Thanks!

I will go take some pictures of the other stuff.
 

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Well you guys got me back on it. I got the TC bolts out and all of the bellhousing bolts. Tomorrow I have to make a bracket for my engine crane to hold the trans and pull it.

Here is a poor pic of the diff carrier. You can see the pawl that is supposed to hold the adjuster is bent.
 

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Ouch! So a portion on the internals seized / bound up and applied a twist to that ring style adjuster and bent the securing bracket in the process?

Odd I think, unless of course someone has been in there OR that is the customary procedure to achieve a locking position of the ring that rests aligned between two hole spacing's??? :unsure:

Seems odd still.

This borrowed pic may show the arrangement better.


Your unit...
 

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I'll also add a link to the Axle & Transmission Service Manual from the FAQ thread here. It may lend to your curiosity and open a repair avenue as well...


 

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I'll also add a link to the Axle & Transmission Service Manual from the FAQ thread here. It may lend to your curiosity and open a repair avenue as well...


I was going to take it to a driveline shop and have them replace the bearing. Getting those off is quite a chore without the correct puller. The ring gear is perfect and there was nothing funky in the fluid and no signs of heat.
 
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