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Discussion Starter #1
Hello
I am attempting to replace the o-ring on the oil filter adaptor housing. It is labelled 20 in this diagram.


However I've been able to loosen 2 out of the 3 bolts on the adaptor housing, the 3rd one labelled 21 on the diagram is stuck hard and the head is starting to round off and there is not a lot of room to work with the exhaust manifold in the way. It looks like the block is aluminium so I assume the bolt has corroded in there. I've read that heat may loosen the bolt tried adding heat with a propane torch but unsure how much heat is needed I don't want to melt the pot metal adaptor housing. It is a large amount of metal surrounded by a water jacket so I Imagine it's going to absorb a lot of heat before anything happens.

Does anyone have any suggestions on how to unstick this bolt? if I can't my next plan of action was to remove the exhaust manifold to give me some more room to use other tools but I really don't want to do that.

Thanks for the help.
 

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First off, a 6-point socket (or box-end wrench) is a must to aid in not rounding off bolt heads, if not already in play.

Heat is an option but you won't be able to concentrate it where you need it due to the massive heat-soak area you have there.

Corrosion is unlikely the issue, but the Factory thread locker the culprit. ;)

Side impacting the bolt heads at their flats (at a 90 degree angle to bolt insertion direction) can often loosen engagement just enough to further turn the fastener out conventionally. A dull flat nose chisel and hammer taps would be appropriate for this action, if you have access. Exhaust manifold removal may be required to properly address the issue.
 

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I would suggest is bang a smaller size 12 point socket onto the bolt head, all the way on so the points dig in and grip. Welding something else on the head can also work (I've done it with rusty rounded bolt heads).
 

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Funny how this product just appeared on a FB ad!

 

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Discussion Starter #5
First off, a 6-point socket (or box-end wrench) is a must to aid in not rounding off bolt heads, if not already in play.
The 6 point socket saved the day, I went an purchased a 12mm 6 point with 3/8 drive and that was enough to get the bolt loose, thanks for the help on that.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
OK, I'm on the other side. I have few of these M13A things for spare parts if you needed anything posted.
Cool, thanks for the offer. Here are some pics of the bolt and leaking o-ring if anyone is interested. The bolt I was having trouble with was the one next to the heat shield.

96355


96356


96357
 

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One of mine has the same leak. Did you buy a replacement o-ring yet or know the dimensions or part number and price?

As for the bolt, if you are good with a grinder, you could make it a tight 11mm, then there would be something an 11mm socket would actually be useful for! I got about 6 of them in my draw of sockets (only 2 x 12mm) and when looking for the 12mm, it takes me about 6 goes to find it. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #11
One of mine has the same leak. Did you buy a replacement o-ring yet or know the dimensions or part number and price?
I used these two sites to find the OEM part number. I tell you what, that megazip site has been invaluable for all my cars. The dimensions are Diameter of the rubber 3.5mm ID width of the complete ring :60.7). In the end I called Suzuki direct because no one had aftermarket. Ended up costing $13 or close to that direct from the dealer.





Also the SEA suzuki site.

 

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Discussion Starter #14
Try Seal Innovations next time for ANYTHING.

Seal Innovations Perth

Seal shop in Malaga, Western Australia
Funny, I live right next door to Malaga as well, shame it didn't come up when I searched. Anyway, the job is done and no leaks so far. The only thing that had me concerned was torquing down the bolts, they just kept turning and turning I had to remind myself I'm squashing down an o-ring not pulling the threads out of the block still felt sketchy though.
 

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That seal place is not really for general public and don't advertise. Thinking about it now, they had put a minimum sales amount at the counter desk last time I went in in the Brisbane place, so I had to buy 3 of what I needed - still saved on OEM rip-off price for a single (perhaps I should have got an O-Ring set). They do have everything seals wise I suspect, and it wont be aftermarket, just industry standard.

I can see the thread lock on the bolt in your pic. The torque setting is to stop stripping thread out of the block I suspect. Me with 35 years of playing with cars, don't often use a measure other than muscle memory and common sense (where to hold the ratchet handle) when tightening non critical stuff - it comes with old age! Yes, I stripped a lot of threads and broke bolts as a young fellow!
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Hmm I didn't use thread locker when reinstalling, I'll check them again next oil change and if need be I'll put some Loctite 243 on there. I think the original application of thread locker was the reason for my struggles this weekend. On another note It also looks like the car may have a stuck thermostat as well, I'll create a new post for that one.
 

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I just remember there is a guy that runs a Suzuki parts business in WA and the name of it starts with Suzi......

I spoke to the owner for some info a few years ago and it appears he lives/sleeps Suzuki cars. The info I got from him over the phone was great and I even stated I was just ringing for info, not purchase and he spoke to me in so much detail about what I needed to know.
 

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I got motivated today and replaced the O-ring in my Ignis today. For convenience, I paid the $13.60 for a new one. After Macca's info, I was especially careful, as I don't have a 6 point 12mm socket that fits on the bolt next to the heat shield without removing that, but I do have an extra long 12mm ratcheting ring spanner and was able to get it fully on the bolt head from underneath without unscrewing the filter (could not find my tool for that) and get two clicks of movement to undo it. Also, owning a car hoist is the best tool for a DIY person like me.

Talking to the OEM Parts guy, he stated this O-ring was the only Suzuki part number he knows in his memory because they sell that many of them, Apparently the O-ring is the same for a Swift.

EDITED -
Pics of the job;
96478
96479
96480
 

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I had a similar issue today (not Ignis, but Astra). I had to split an auto trans and T/Converter from Flex Plate. The really low profile bolt heads were an issue with a standard 17mm socket. Solution was to modify a socket with bench grinder to be "flat faced". Job done, as normal socket was spinning on bolt head.
97076
 
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