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Discussion Starter #1
Hello all! You guys and gals have been amazingly helpful, I can't thank you enough for everything you have done.

The biggest problem is my engine stuttering and stalling. I thought it was the EGR clogged but I removed and cleaned that and still have problems.

The vehicle starts fine, idles around 1200 til it warms up and idles at about 800. I hop on the freeway on my way to work and it drives like a champ but when I get off the freeway, have the clutch in and the car in neutral the RPMs drop to extremely low. Sometimes after the freeway, when I am sitting at the redlight with the RPM's extremely low, without me doing anything the car will randomly rev back up to 800 and then idle fine. Other times it will continue to drop and the car will stall. Yesterday I pushed the clutch in took take a left turn on the offramp in neutral and the car stalled again, that was the first time this felt dangerous as it became very difficult to turn.

So there is my engine problem.

My interior problem is unrelated and very annoying. My driver side floor becomes soaked during rainfall. I have a small leak on my windshield above the driver, but that is not enough to cause the sopping wet carpet by my feet. This happens when the car is parked and now my floors are rusting through.

Thank you for any and all help and experience you can offer!
 

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I assume that you are talking about the 1998 Suzuki Sport in your signature....taking the easy part of your post first - yes, a small leak or crack in your windshield can be enough to have wet carpet at your feet (and I would suggest that you, at least temporarily, lift the carpet up as continually wet carpet will start rusting the floorboard. I am not that familiar with the Sport body, but assume that, like the Sidekick, the cowl that runs along under the windshield is supposed to assist in draining water away. If this is clogged up with leaves and debris, the water instead runs down the firewall in the interior of the car on to the carpet by your feet. So it is possible that your wet carpet is from two sources. The first thing you should do is check to see if you find evidence of water running down the interior firewall (if it was warmer out, I would suggest pointing a hose at the cowl and windshield of your car to see where the leak is coming from).
Regarding your engine idle issue, is your check engine light on with the key on and off onc the car starts? Normally, if your idle issue comes from a sensor related fault, your ECU will pick up the fault. But it is also a good idea to confirm that your engine is timed and tuned properly, as well, before looking for other causes.
Is your check engine light on when the car is running?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I assume that you are talking about the 1998 Suzuki Sport in your signature....taking the easy part of your post first - yes, a small leak or crack in your windshield can be enough to have wet carpet at your feet (and I would suggest that you, at least temporarily, lift the carpet up as continually wet carpet will start rusting the floorboard. I am not that familiar with the Sport body, but assume that, like the Sidekick, the cowl that runs along under the windshield is supposed to assist in draining water away. If this is clogged up with leaves and debris, the water instead runs down the firewall in the interior of the car on to the carpet by your feet. So it is possible that your wet carpet is from two sources. The first thing you should do is check to see if you find evidence of water running down the interior firewall (if it was warmer out, I would suggest pointing a hose at the cowl and windshield of your car to see where the leak is coming from).
Regarding your engine idle issue, is your check engine light on with the key on and off onc the car starts? Normally, if your idle issue comes from a sensor related fault, your ECU will pick up the fault. But it is also a good idea to confirm that your engine is timed and tuned properly, as well, before looking for other causes.
Is your check engine light on when the car is running?
Thank you for the information about the cowl, I will check that. I remembered seeing it on here somewhere from a search but no luck.

A week or 2 ago the car started sounding awful when started, sputtering. The CEL came on when the key was in but would turn off at start. One day it was sputtering bad, I revved it, the check engine light came on and the engine leveled out. Since then it has started alright, the light is on though, and it stalls (or almost stalls) at lights.
 

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Do you have a scanner? If not, and you plan on keeping the car, you should get one. When the CEL comes on, the ECU is attempting to communicate with you. If you plug your scanner in, you will see exactly what the ECU is seeing. A scanner is better than a code reader, as a scanner will give you real time information, as well.
In any event, you need to find out what code you have - I believe that some places will pull your codes for free. If you get your code, post it, for more info. Nothing much we can do without knowing what code your ECU is giving.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
I do have a code reader, I will pull the code now.

What is the difference in a scanner and a code reader?

EDIT: Code P0302 Cylinder 2 Misfire

This is a code I have had before, new spark plugs had seemed to fix it for a few months
 

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A code reader will only tell you the code that the ECU is seeing. A scanner will give you real time information - temperatures, ignition timing, sensor activity, etc., so basically, the coder gives you the 'what', but the scanner can give you the 'why'.
Misfires occur basically due to loss of spark, poor compression, a problematic fuel injector or fuel mixture. You can rule out fuel mixture, as this would happen on all cylinders, rather than just one. Perhaps the first, simplest thing you can do is to switch your coil/plug etc. from the number 2 cylinder to another cylinder, clear the code and then see if the misfire remains with cylinder #2, or follows the cop.
 

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Idle problem also just like Jlouis

I have much the same idle problem on my '94 Tracker LSi 4wd 2 dr soft top with 286,000.
The idle problem is not consistent except at first start and then first stop the engine will not idle, simply shuts down, then will run fine most of the time and randomly shutdown rather than idle. This has been an excellent ride and will continue to be when this problem is resolved...I hope some of you experienced Tracker folks can help us.
Thank you so much for your help.
 

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Idle problem also just like Jlouis

I have much the same idle problem on my '94 Tracker LSi 4wd 2 dr soft top with 286,000.
The idle problem is not consistent except at first start and then first stop the engine will not idle, simply shuts down, then will run fine most of the time and randomly shutdown rather than idle. This has been an excellent ride and will continue to be when this problem is resolved...I hope some of you experienced Tracker folks can help us.
Thank you so much for your help.
 

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Trackerlover, you should start your own post with your specific problem, any tests you have done, things you may have replaced, it. Stalling is a fairly general term - but can happen due to a fuel problem, as well as an electrical problem, so all 'stalling' posts may not necessarily be from the same problem. Start your own post and give as much detail (like engine rpm, etc) as you can.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
A code reader will only tell you the code that the ECU is seeing. A scanner will give you real time information - temperatures, ignition timing, sensor activity, etc., so basically, the coder gives you the 'what', but the scanner can give you the 'why'.
Misfires occur basically due to loss of spark, poor compression, a problematic fuel injector or fuel mixture. You can rule out fuel mixture, as this would happen on all cylinders, rather than just one. Perhaps the first, simplest thing you can do is to switch your coil/plug etc. from the number 2 cylinder to another cylinder, clear the code and then see if the misfire remains with cylinder #2, or follows the cop.
So I swapped the coil from cylinder 2 to cylinder one and cleared the code and have been driving it for a while. It is still stalling but not throwing a code anymore. Still confused, is this an ECU problem?
 

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Probably not, under what conditions does it stall?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
From my first post: "The vehicle starts fine, idles around 1200 til it warms up and idles at about 800. I hop on the freeway on my way to work and it drives like a champ but when I get off the freeway, have the clutch in and the car in neutral the RPMs drop to extremely low. Sometimes after the freeway, when I am sitting at the redlight with the RPM's extremely low, without me doing anything the car will randomly rev back up to 800 and then idle fine. Other times it will continue to drop and the car will stall. Yesterday I pushed the clutch in took take a left turn on the offramp in neutral and the car stalled again, that was the first time this felt dangerous as it became very difficult to turn."



Also, I noticed that it tends to stall when I am coasting with the clutch in, but if I am stopped at a red light it will (sometimes) jump back to normal (~800RPM). Sometimes, other times it will stall still.
 

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So, no bogging at all while you are driving - good acceleration, etc., yes? It is just when you are coming to a stop, or clutch is in and rpms would (normally) drop. When you put the clutch in (and the car would try to stall), can you rev it out of the stall, or will it bog/stall anyway??
 

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Discussion Starter #15
So, no bogging at all while you are driving - good acceleration, etc., yes? It is just when you are coming to a stop, or clutch is in and rpms would (normally) drop. When you put the clutch in (and the car would try to stall), can you rev it out of the stall, or will it bog/stall anyway??
Yes I can rev it out of a stall no problem at all. And still great acceleration and everything else, I've seen no other effects to the driving
 

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Then confirm that your EGR valve is not sticking - and snaps back strongly when you push it forward - or leaking. This is the number one reason for stalling at traffic lights, etc., - the EGR valve either sticking or leaking.
This also assumes that you car is tuned up properly, etc., the plugs are good and gapped properly.
 
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