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Hi all,

I have a roof light bar, wired to the battery with a wiring kit that came with it, I also have a rear light bar that id like to run off a second switch. Is it possible to use the same wiring harness, or do i have to run a second relay/fuse off the battery as before?

94901
 

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You will probably find that the amp draw off the first light bar is near max for the wires...

Run a new circuit..
 

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Discussion Starter #3
You will probably find that the amp draw off the first light bar is near max for the wires...

Run a new circuit..
A couple of other friends have 2 bars running off the same wiring, no issues, not on separate switches tho.
 

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Your friends have had to modify the harness to make that happen, and so will you, yours however will need to be modified to a greater extent. Your harness has one fuse, one relay one switch, one set of connections to the power source and one connection for lamp, your friends would have had to wire in another lamp connection and a few feet of wire, a relatively easy task, you, on the other hand, need to add a second switch, second relay and a second lamp connector along with several feet of wire (enough to reach from the switch to the relay to the lamp.

The fact that you're asking this question would suggest you have little experience with electrical wiring and at that point I will suggest you buy a second harness, the path your friends have chosen has a number of risks associated with it, the biggest of which is overloaded wiring and the potential of an electrical fire occurring, one possible reason this hasn't happened yet is many of the light bars don't actually deliver the advertised lumens or consume the claimed "wattage".
 

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Hello so I have wired two lights up to my XL7 as well.
They run over a relay from the battery and are connected to another relay that receives signals from a little remote I have. So I didn’t drill any holes inside the cabin, I turn the lights on and off over this little remote I have.

But I would like to wire them to my highbeams as well, has anyone wired lights to their highbeams before or knows how to do it on a 04 xl7?
 

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No it’s legal in my area. But also very important, because there is an insane amount of deer hopping around. Just on my way home today I saw 3 ruining across the street in front of me on separate occasions. Just last Friday I hit one doing at least 30mph, jumped right out of the bush into the headlight. No damage. But lights can improve your chances a lot in some locations, when you drive a lot at night like I do. But we have many blindcorners, so I need to be able to switch them off quick.
 

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This would probably run afoul of your local laws.
here any driving lights or additional lights MUST be wired so they can only come on with high beams and must extinguish on low, side, or when lights are turned off at the main headlight lighting switch in the car.
 

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Being in the US, Max Reinhardt is in a bit of "cloudy" situation - FMVSS108 does NOT permit the use of lighting that is not DOT approved "on road", and as far as I know, the majority of LED bars do not have approval.

It's also been quite some time since I sat down with the FMVSS108, but if I recall correctly, driving lights (not fog lights) are required to function as described by 2013GV, which would make Max' current arrangements illegal.

For what it's worth, I have both halogen driving lights and two roof mounted LED bars (one front facing, the other rear facing) on my GV, the front facing lights are individually switched and can only come on when the high beams are on, the rear facing LED (a small 18w unit) has it's own switch and can be used with the reverse lights or as a "camp light" controlled by the alarm system remote.

The issue with LED lights is that they typically have insufficient "reach" to be any good as driving lights, if what you need to see is the area directly in front of the vehicle they are fine, but beyond a hundred meters or so, they are inadequate. The big problem as I see it, and unfortunately a lot of users don't recognize this, is that when you use an LED bar it illuminates the area close to the vehicle so brightly that the pupils of your eyes contract, making it virtually impossible to see anything beyond the brightly lit area.

Also, you're going to find that switching from that brightly lit area, back to standard headlights when you dip leaves you "blind".
 

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Yes that’s true, i am living as what locals refer to not being part of the US for many different reasons, but generally nobody is going to care about any lights as long I don’t blind anyone and be responsible about it. If I leave this area there would be no need to use them anyway, because those special conditions only apply where I’m living.
I have two small lights, no bar. Both facing forward, one has something like a 170 degree angel, for the purpose of spotting deer in blind or tight corners - with the standard headlights you often can’t see them when they are standing on the inside of the turn. The other one is a spotlight aimed straight ahead, its for the purpose of seeing the deers eyes on greater distance which would give me more time to slow down.
Generally I see enough with the standard headlights, but I figured where I’m living they often don’t provide a wide enough angel or quite enough reach to spot deer on time.
 

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It's been my experience that those darn Bambiez will blindly jump directly into the high beams.
My last one cracked the plastic grill, knocked out the drivers side headlight & bent the bumper.
That was on an 81 Toyota 4x4, had it been one of the Trackers I might have had to walk home.
Sweet little thing just kept on running
I'd do it right and add a relay as has been suggested.
Watch how you wire the trigger side of the relay, fordem can tell you exactly how to wire the whole thing.
Just ask.

Don

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Hi, so I want to fit some lights to the highbeams within the next week, but I am not completely sure on how to do it.
@fordem
I found this diagram, is that accurate?
The lights will have about 250-400W combined.
So as far I understand I connect a wire from the little black wire from the headlamp to the relay and that’s it?
 

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-ve switched on the 'zukes i think, so this diagram will help if they are switched this way.

95043
 

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Either one of those diagrams can be used.
 

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Thank you, very much, im gonna use the first diagram since it looks easier to use.
I have a similar wiring harness as in post #1, and zero experience with electrical wiring.
My four lights consume 400W togheter (if the specs are true which I don’t believe but anyway), so even if they have 400W, the wiring harness with the relay and the 40A fuse should be sufficient, right? So I can hook all four lights to this relay?
And I am not risking blowing some fuses in the car or so, because the lights have their own power source?
But when I tap into the wire coming out of the headlight, that’s a pretty tiny wire, is there any risk?
And we are talking about one of the three wires coming right out of the headlight, right? Do you know the color by any chance?

As I said, I know how to wire it after the diagram, but I still don’t really know how it actually works and if something or what could go wrong which is what im worried about.
Thank you
 

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Maybe it's time to call an auto-electrician...
 

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Sure, the problem between me and an auto electrician are 30 miles of water and my wallet haha.
Also I want to learn a little about those things doing it, so most likely I will do it myself, but I could get people that know a little bit.
Problem is this negative switched thing that nobody has seem to seen before..
I mean, it doesn’t sound too hard.
As long I follow the diagram, what could go wrong? And when the wires are thick enough and I have a 40A fuse? I just want to know if it’s ok to tap into the headlight wire, because it’s so much smaller then the other wires I’m using..
That’s what I want to know..
 

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the headlight wire is only carrying the coil current for the relay, not the load current for the lights.
-ve switching is very common on vehicles, switch is in negative side of the circuit. Works the same as positive switched except the wire gets grounded to turn the light on and theres power at the headlights all the time instead of a +ve switched circuit where one side of the lights are grounded and power gets switched to the lights.
The diagram I posted shows a negative switched system in the car using positive switching to turn the driving lights on.
 
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