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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just put a 2" suspension lift and upgraded all shocks to old man emu. The ride is super rough and all over the place. Will this change after I do the alignment? Also I'm still running the stock tire size and it feels like it lost power?
 

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That's often the problem with lift kits - the raised height will mean less compliant springs. Often the kits are designed for heavier loads too (to keep the vehicle "level" with extra weight.) I had a lifted springs in my last vehicle and the ride was horrendous. :(

PS: Don't rush to get an alignment done as the springs will "settle" a bit after you've done some driving.
 

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pulls from one side to another
That IS a classic alignment issue, usually in the area of "toe-in" adjustment. ;)
Correction to spec there, should help with the wandering.

But ride quality is what you gave up, in favor of off-road performance. Keep your tires at the recommended 26 PSI (if not already there) and that may ease the burden some.
 

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Old Man Emu (OME) does not do a 2" lift for these vehicles, in fact, what OME offers for the Grand Vitara is not a lift kit, but a strut & shock that has to be matched to your choice of springs, designed to compensate for an increased load - the springs will lift the vehicle but it's not a 2" lift, and the only way to get a 2" lift with OME components is to "over spec" the springs (specify a spring to carry more weight than you actually plan on carrying), and that will result in the ride being unnecessarily rough.

The last person I saw with this complaint had purchased a "kit" cobbled together by a US vendor who supplied OME shocks, struts & coils based on the customer's request (and not OME's recommendations) and the customer didn't understand that OME's "heavy duty" meant an additional 300lbs of weight, which the vehicle didn't have.

What exactly have you fitted to the vehicle, other than the OME shocks & struts? Are you using longer or stiffer springs, or is this a spacer lift? If you changed the springs, whose springs are you using? If OME springs, which ones? How are you compensating for the positive camber caused by the lift?

I'm running OME on my GV and I can tell you, the ride & handling are both greatly improved.

One last thing - a change in suspension will not cause any loss in power - if you have experienced a loss in power, it's coincidental.
 

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Since you didn't change the springs (spring rate) then the increased ride harshness can only be attributed to the style of shock you chose, in this instance.

Nitrocharger Shock Absorbers

Nitrocharger 4x4 shock absorbers were specifically designed with Australia’s unique driving conditions in mind, where vehicles are often heavily loaded, fitted with accessories and driven on harsh, Outback roads for prolonged periods.

Old Man Emu engineers specialize in nothing else but 4WD suspension systems, and it’s this experience in setting the most appropriate valving that really differentiates the Nitrocharger from its competitors. In many cases, several shock absorber applications will be listed for one vehicle to ensure the proper match regardless of spring selection, accessory fitment or load carrying requirements. And while OME Nitrochargers will improve overall performance when fitted with standard springs, more substantial benefits can be achieved with fitted in conjunction with Old Man Emu springs, for a complete, integrated 4WD suspension system.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
All I'm trying to achieve is running a tire size bigger. The stock size tire does not offer a "all terrain" option. I want a lil more meat on tire so when I do go off road. But now I don't even want to drive this SUV.
 

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I'm running Dunlop GrandTrek AT3s (which is an all terrain) in the stock 235/60R16, I also have another vehicle (a Nissan) shod in the same tire in a 215/65R16, which I believe is the other OEM size used, and if I'm not mistaken you can go larger without lifting the vehicle. All terrains also available in this size include the Pirelli Scorpion AT, Falken WildPeak AT, and the Yokohama Geolandar AT.

You have some other suspension/steering issue you need to track down & resolve - it's not the OME shocks & struts, those are marginally firmer than OE replacements, and will not cause either a "super rough" ride, or the vehicle to be "all over the place", and that ebay link is Jeff Hoepkers' spacers, which won't cause it either.

Check both the steering and suspension (front & back) for loose or worn bushes (this should have been done when you installing the lift) - it may be hard to see the rear bushes but you can pry the trailing arms with a small crowbar, any movement (other than radial) is an indication of a defective bush.

Get a 24" level and tape two matching spacers to it so that you can hold the level vertical with the spacers making contact with the rim, if the bubble is not centered, you have a camber issue - get a pair of camber bolts install them and then adjust to center the bubble. Use a tape measure and measure the distance from the center of one front tire tread to the other - do this at the back and the front of the tire - if you have more than 1/8" difference (the front measurement should be smaller), adjust the tie-rods to compensate.

Note - the above is a very crude alignment, designed only to allow you to use the vehicle whilst the spacer/springs settle and you will need to get it correctly set afterwards - I have used this method and actually gotten the vehicle within spec, but just barely - the alignment tech then finished the job for me a few hundred miles later.
 

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Judging by every lifted GV thread I've seen, you are going to have major problems with positive camber on the front end.

It also wouldn't surprise me if your rear shock absorbers are running out of length - that will cause major handling issues.

Edit: from memory the proper OME lift kit is only 35mm higher.
 

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from memory the proper OME lift kit is only 35mm higher.
Whilst this is true, if I recall correctly the increase in shock/strut length/travel is greater than 35mm - I did measure before installing, and my recollection is that it's closer to 50mm, but I'll need to find my notes to confirm the actual numbers.

It also wouldn't surprise me if your rear shock absorbers are running out of length - that will cause major handling issues.
Yes - it is theoretically possible to run out of shock length especially if the original shocks were re-used, as mentioned above the OMEs have increased travel (not just length) and I wouldn't expect this to happen very easily. What I will say is that there is noticeably more "droop" in the suspension, when jacking the car to remove a tire.

Judging by every lifted GV thread I've seen, you are going to have major problems with positive camber on the front end.
Positive camber will make the vehicle very "squirrely" - and that's where I believe his "all over the place" is coming from, but it can be resolved with camber bolts.
 

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One pair or two?

I've noticed that different cam bolt manufacturers advertise different amounts (degrees) of correction, so that is one possible explanation for there not being enough compensation, but, if you need more camber adjustment than one bolt allows, there is a simple solution - fit another pair - set the top bolt one way, the lower bolt the other way.

My other suggestion, if your alignment guy doesn't have a solution, is find another shop - the most commonly used fix is to file or grind the holes in the strut "ears" oval - I don't like it, if you're going to do it I suggest you get a couple of large washers and put them on either side of the ears and once you have the alignment set, tack weld them to the ears to prevent movement.
 

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The front spacers should be thinner than the rear spacers, have you got them the right way round?
 

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4 inches up front seems way too drastic with only spacers. I'm under the impression that the approximate maximum lift is 2in. suspension and 3in. body lift (recommended 2in. Body). 4 up front would really wreak havoc on your alignment. Good chance like stated above that spacers are installed opposite norm.
 
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