Suzuki Forums banner

1 - 15 of 15 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hello, My 1999 Vitara 2.0 manual transmission has been a very reliable vehicle forever. Recently I was driving to work when I felt it lose a cylinder, running rough for a while, like three minutes, then stall. Fortunately, I was by that time at work and coasted into the parking lot and parked it, after a little pushing to make it the last 15 feet. The code it threw was random cylinder misfire. I changed all the plugs and it fired up fine. Let it idle for a while and very soon after the thermostat opened up, it lost a cylinder then 2, then died. Would not restart even with ether as a test fuel. So dutifully I read the forums and ordered a new camshaft position sensor. Replaced it today. No difference. Still runs fine until the thermostat opens, then runs rough dies one cylinder at a time until it quits. I can delay the quitting for a while if I rev it up and hold it, but when I let off it dies. Then after an hour it starts fine and zoom, it runs until it heats up and repeat. What do people think? Fuel system? Crank position sensor? Engine computer? Any suggestion would be helpful.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
18,025 Posts
Fuel pump? Filter? :unsure:
I'd get a fuel pressure gauge plumbed at the fuel rail and observe it for low PSI when it fails again.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
18,025 Posts
FWIW, I too would have first suspected the Cam Position Sensor first off. ;)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
FWIW, I too would have first suspected the Cam Position Sensor first off. ;)
Yes ordered a new one, as a lot of posts point in that direction. $35, not the most expensive, but not the cheapest. Brand was Beck/Arnley.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,465 Posts
Confirm heat sink faulty CAM sensor, apply a cold wet rag to sensor when in failed situation, if start up, faulty sensor confirmed (low tech)

Connect scope and look at the 5-0vdc square wave, (high tech)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
Like you did i would replace the crank sensor. But before i do that on some suzuki like the m13a vvt engine you can unplug the crank sensor and run the car. If it dosnt stall then crank sensor issue is the cause. But you replaced that already. So maybe you could check coolant temp sensor. These can get caked up if people use tap water in there coolant.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
18,025 Posts
Lee. I think that you are getting your Cam and Crank sensors mixed up. It is the CAM sensor that provides the firing trigger. The Crank sensor only feeds the coding efforts in this config. ;)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
Max. Thanks for pointing that out. My mistake. But alot of people tend to call the cam sensor a crank sensor also. Does the car start back up again after the engine as cooled down ?. If it a crank sensor they would shut all cylinders down at once. Does the car jolt before stalling ?.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Max. Thanks for pointing that out. My mistake. But alot of people tend to call the cam sensor a crank sensor also. Does the car start back up again after the engine as cooled down ?. If it a crank sensor they would shut all cylinders down at once. Does the car jolt before stalling ?.
Yes when it first started doing this it would drop one cylinder, then after a bit, another one would go, then eventually it would just quit. But it would run on 3 and 2 cylinders for a minute or so.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,465 Posts
Guessing will get you no where fast and probably cost you $$$

Follow a proper diagnostic path, you will need some test equipment, or find a good diagnostician who knows how to connect and read a scope..
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
Guessing will get you no where fast and probably cost you $$$

Follow a proper diagnostic path, you will need some test equipment, or find a good diagnostician who knows how to connect and read a scope..
I just feel like this should be a forum about how to fix things. Not how to find someone to fix it for me. If I wanted that, I could do that.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,465 Posts
I just feel like this should be a forum about how to fix things. Not how to find someone to fix it for me. If I wanted that, I could do that.
If you had the tools/equipment to diagnose we could guide you, but if you wander and guess, best to get help...

There are no silver bullets, and we do not have crystal balls..

My question now is, are you going to invest in diagnostic equipment?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
63 Posts
Let it idle for a while and very soon after the thermostat opened up, it lost a cylinder then 2, then died.

Classic "Camshaft Position Sensor" failure symptoms.

Would not restart even with ether as a test fuel.

Ok, that means there's no spark to fire the ether test fuel.

So dutifully I read the forums and ordered a new camshaft position sensor. Replaced it today. No difference.

Just because it's new, there's no guarantee that it's not faulty as well. Did you order a GENUINE OEM Suzuki/chevy sensor? I went through 3 aftermarket ones before finally ordering the more expensive genuine Suzuki cps, put it in, and it then it just ran .

Still runs fine until the thermostat opens, then runs rough dies one cylinder at a time until it quits. I can delay the quitting for a while if I rev it up and hold it, but when I let off it dies.

As the sensor begins to fail, it becomes more and more sensitive to heat soak. It's mounted at the rear (hot area) of the engine, over top of the exhaust manifold (hotter area), and doesn't get much air flow to take the heat away. That's why you can delay the failure by revving the engine so that the fan blows more air past the sensor.

Then after an hour it starts fine and zoom, it runs until it heats up and repeat. What do people think? Fuel system? Crank position sensor? Engine computer? Any suggestion would be helpful.

If you want to try something to prove what's wrong, go to a dollar store, buy a small spray bottle, fill the bottle with 1/2 water, 1/2 isopropanol alcohol, and the next time the engine dies, lift the hood and wet down the sensor! The alcohol/water solution will cool the sensor down almost immediately, and in my case, the darned car would start right up and run ok until the sensor finally got hot enough to fail again.
 
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
Top