Suzuki Forums banner

1 - 10 of 10 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Trying to get a friends Tracker running after sitting for a couple of years. Always ran well and now won’t start. Here is what I know.

New battery and starter. 12.8 volts to starter and all fuses under hood. Intermittent operation of running gear varying from all accessories and lights working to relays just ticking to nothing at all. If there is power, it dies as soon as you turn the ignition. At most you can hear the starting solenoid click. Get 12.8 volts from positive terminal to any metal ground under the hood.

Started checking in the cabin. All fuses are good but only showing 2.8 volts at all terminals with ignition on. I acts like a dead battery at first blush, but there is just very low voltage in the cabin. Starting to suspect a bad ignition switch.

Any insight is appreciated.
 

·
Registered
99 Tracker, 5 door, 2L, 4x4
Joined
·
10,429 Posts
You are testing with a meter with no load, you wont be locating the issue that way..

To perform a proper voltage drop you either need to introduce a load, or measure while the load is active..

Make sure you test the ground side as well..
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
15,124 Posts
Start at the battery and work your way down the power chain - use a test light, something that draws a reasonable amount of current, say a turn signal bulb - from the battery positive, go to the main fuse panel (under the hood). At that main panel the power splits and goes to "non-switched" loads, (headlights etc.), and "ignition switched" loads (turn signals, wipers, fuel injection) - if you're losing power to both the switched & non-switched loads, there's a high probability the issue lies in the main fuse panel, or in the battery to ground cabling.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,424 Posts
Check all the main and sub body ground connections too, they corrode and while tight can be very rusty under the lugs. Bright shiny surfaces are your friend.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
25,040 Posts
Just further to Fordem’s info - that fusible link box that powers the entire car is on the fender, just in front of the battery, which is where he’s recommending you start testing.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
288 Posts
one of those high current fuses was "fixed" by PO in my car with some corroded copper strands inside....
also note that out of the three big fuses (well, at least in my car) two are male/female, but the third is held with 6mm screws, it will not pull out, you have to dismount the complete fuse box to get to the screws
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Poor sub body ground fits. Will run a temporary ground directly from terminal to cabin and see it it resolves.

Will also pull the main fuse box and check for corrosion underneath. I have full voltage across the 6mm lugs and at each fuse topside. But it sounds like there have been issues that start underneath on the outgoing side.

Fingers crossed. Checking next round tonight.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
jumped on to post a resolved message.

Got home. Tried a quick ground to cab. No dice. Started wiggling around the fuse box in for voltage drop under load. Headlights come on.

Had wife turn ignition while I poked around and it fired right up. Corrosion in the positive battery cable. Clipped ends and put terminal back on.

Troubleshoot 5 min
Fix 5 min
Get wife off the phone long enough to turn a key 10 min.

Been a while since I had to troubleshoot automotive electrical and can’t recall needing to do a voltage drop under load to find a problem in my life. Dumb luck I guess. Now I know a little more than yesterday.

In the end that’s what these forums are all about. Heartfelt thanks to everyone who chimed in.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,424 Posts
Glad you found the issue and resolved it.
Learned something too

Double bonus

(y)
 
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
Top