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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 1995 geo tracker 16 valve that the oil pump failed and broke the camshaft. I purchased a good running 1997 16 valve and want to swap the 97 into the 95.

What all needs changed? I understand that I am going from obd2 to obd1. Please help.
 

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I have a 1995 geo tracker 16 valve that the oil pump failed and broke the camshaft. I purchased a good running 1997 16 valve and want to swap the 97 into the 95.

What all needs changed? I understand that I am going from obd2 to obd1. Please help.
I'd replace the intake manifold (including the injector harness), as it has all the original OBD I emissions stuff, and the distributor. Good luck

ps as long as it's out, I'd definitely ream out the EGR tube & passageways plus the exhaust manifold passage.
 

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If you wish to keep the 97 engine as OBD2, you would also need to swap out the harness and the computer, in order to run the engine that way. For example, the OBD2 engine will have a crankshaft sensor that the OBD1 didn’t have, and without the OBD2 computer, things won’t run properly. There ARE posts on this forum where people have done this swap, but kept their car as OBD1, where some of the OBD2 sensors aren’t activated. You don’t advise the transmissions from either car - and that can be a bit of an issue as well, regarding the ECU.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks everyone for the help so far.

So I have the engine in the car. I switched the intake manifold, distributor, egr ,wiring harness(all from the 95), and fuel injectors. I have everything plugged in except the cps( I understand it will not affect anything using the obd1)

I crank the engine and it will not start. I have fire at the plugs and think it is timed correctly. I also have fuel to the fuel rail. Any help is appreciated. Thanks
 

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My first question would be what ECU is now in the car?
You say that the manifold, distributor, EGR, etc., is FROM the 95???
A compression test will indicate if the engine is timed correctly.
And a noid test will indicate if the ECU is providing the signal to the injectors.
 

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Even though you have spark, you probably have the distributor stabbed incorrectly.
 

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And, as Ranger says, check your distributor. You fire 1-3-4-2 and your rotor turns counterclockwise in the 16v.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I have 160psi of compression on all cylinders. Both the 95&97 are automatic transmissions.
I am not sure how to do a noid test but I suspect that is my next option. Thanks again everyone
 

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Not too bad, but slightly under spec. Confirm that you did the compression test properly: all plugs out, FI fuse out, well charged battery, and floored the gas pedal when you were cranking about 5-6 times for best compression. Also confirm if the engine was warm or cold when you tested.
For the noid test, you have two wires going to the injectors - the red wire which is the ‘hot’ wire, and the yellow wire. If you have a noid tester (or you can make one yourself with an led bulb and two wires), you disconnect the injector connector. You are testing the signal coming from the ECU. On the ECU side of the connector, you put one wire of your noid tester to the red wired pin, and the other to a ground source. Then crank the engine - the noid light should pulse as the ECU is pulsing the injector. You can also test off the yellow wire, by putting one of your noid wires to the yellow wired pin, and the other to the positive battery terminal - and crank again to see the pulse. Never hook up the injector to 12v directly to test it, as you’ll burn it out.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
The engine was cold being as is will not run. I did not hold the accelerator down just cranked.
The noid test I believe is my next order of business. Thanks again for all the help.
 
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